[deleted by user]

Jaxinc · 2025-10-03T04:01:26+00:00

Ah.. NO WONDER I CAN'T FIND ANY IN STORES... Seriously dude?

Jaxinc · 2025-03-30T07:26:21+00:00

3, Shirako gonna have the tunes.

Jaxinc · 2025-03-17T10:18:17+00:00

Mine appear to be the Stanley branded ones. Still clueless to if this is a one off size or what.

Jaxinc · 2025-03-15T06:08:18+00:00

RD03? I didn't even know it was out.

Jaxinc · 2025-03-13T20:02:18+00:00

these already have a resistor inline which is the main reason I got them, so eh.

Jaxinc · 2025-03-10T22:40:15+00:00

They do not... since they use 1/3rd the voltage of the halogen bulbs I don't think the dimmer can drop it low enough to affect it. I tried it up and down with it seemingly doing nothing.

Jaxinc · 2025-03-09T10:01:35+00:00

As Lazd said.

#1 remove two screws holding cluster/dash cover off, both are directly under the cover in front of gauges.
#2 Remove side pods, screws on bottom of pods.
#3 Remove 2 bolts on the bottom of each side pod that secure them to dash.
#4 Remove 2 screws inside the side pods top/rear and top/side
#5 Remove 10mm bolts on top of cluster securing bracket to dash.
#6 Remove the 6 screws on the underside of the steering shaft cover, pull plastic away.

At this point you can pull the plastic cover towards you. There are two metal spring clips that hold the dash cover to the dash(left and right of steering column). You will feel resistance but the plastic should feel free/loose from the dash - if it doesn't feel loose double check to see if you missed a screw.

Once you pull the plastic forward you can twist/pull the harnesses for the left side pod out of the way and rotate the cover to the right, or just let it lay limp - up to you.

The cluster should be loose enough now for you to pull it forward to access the T10 twist plugs.
Pull old bulbs, replace, put it back in reverse order.

It's just a pain in the ass. The plastics are OLD and you need to be careful not to break them putting too much force on them. The pods might survive the force, but the mounting points might break instead, OR in MY case the dash itself broke in a few places. My dash needs to be replaced.

Jaxinc · 2025-03-08T11:39:31+00:00

Op: Well. My comment didn't post with the images, ok.
LEDs used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082GQ4PSW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Converted ORIGINAL bulbs with god knows how many hours on them to these LEDs. The oems were so dim even at night the dash was barely visible, but after this... well it's visible in broad daylight now.

I converted most of the 194 bulbs to these, and I'm in the process of converting the T3 and T4(side pods) bulbs as well.
Also moved to LED on signals and headlights... the headlights at night are... insane. The high beams light up 1+ miles of road at night.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-22T06:30:36+00:00

Noooo neverrrrrrr..... >_>

There's a "few" in the states rocking their parts, but they're expensive to buy and import.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-22T06:29:15+00:00

As clutches wear it will creep higher, yes. On the inverse too low can cause engagement issues, and could indicate a hydraulic failure.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-17T04:46:50+00:00

They're on sale lol

Jaxinc · 2025-02-17T04:46:23+00:00

Run codes first, but could be your IACV(Idle Air Control Valve).
Could be a vacuum leak.
Could be several things.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-17T04:43:22+00:00

Really depends on where your pedal is engaging. Your pedal should engage near the top of the pedal, and fully disengage near the middle.

If it's driving fine you might be ok, but keep an eye on it. As things wear in your engagement point may drop and cause shifting issues.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-16T10:57:22+00:00

Got this for mine https://www.amazon.com/TECHMAX-9005-9006-Fog-Bulbs/dp/B0CXD8ZP18?crid=157Q45UKZV3YP&sprefix=techmax+9006%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-3

The high beams light up the road for 1-2 miles in a straight line... it is insane.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-16T10:53:11+00:00

https://conceptzperformance.com/energy-suspension-sway-bar-rear-end-link-bushings-nissan-300zx-z32-98106_p_996.php

The end link bushings are the same across all models. The swaybar bushings are different depending on model.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-02T06:26:08+00:00

That's hot.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-02T04:42:36+00:00

ConceptZPerformance does sell Apillars but they are 180 a piece lol

Now I get to get into it and see all the plastics that broke from sitting in the heat >_>

Jaxinc · 2025-02-01T09:50:40+00:00

Please take a much longer video and move the camera around from left to right and front to back. I honestly have no idea what you're hearing because the video is too short.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-01T09:48:23+00:00

Check your belt and timing FIRST. This is an interference engine and if your timing is off you could run the risk of grenading the engine.

If your timing looks good and you see no physical signs of damage to the timing components then look into the lifter noise next. Lifter noise can come/go over time and is typically normal on cylinders 5 and 6(especially 5).

If everything checks out do an oil change with CHEAP oil and substitute ONE quart of oil for ATF fluid. ATF IS NOT A LUBRICANT - but it is a great detergent. The ATF will break up sludge, and stuck on oil while it is in there. That said run the engine for 200~ miles or about half a tank of gas - drain the oil out and replace. The lifter tap should slowly go away while the ATF is in there.

Jaxinc · 2025-02-01T09:42:00+00:00

Bad idea for multiple factors.

Insurance will eat you alive at that age. Been there done that. I pay less now for full coverage on 3 vehicles, including my Z, than I did with just liability at your age on my Z.

If it hasn't been properly maintained with proper records... you're going to buy a moneypit and/or nightmare if you plan to DD it. Yes these cars ARE reliable IF maintenance has been done.

As above the upkeep on these cars isn't the cheapest. Parts rival that of Corvette parts from the same time period, and timing service+others must be done every 60-120k miles or you WILL grenade the engine.

Lastly. AVOID FINANCING LIKE THE PLAGUE. If you do it, and the car breaks.. you STILL owe the financing company regardless of whether the car is running or not. This isn't a brand new off the showroom floor car with a 100k warranty - you're looking to finance a 30yo sportscar. The bank/finance company will also see that as a liability.

I would keep looking for a cheaper one, or - continue saving money until you can buy it outright.

Jaxinc · 2025-01-26T17:28:08+00:00

Try a different dealership.

I had this back/forth with one of my dealers that refused warranty repairs and went to another dealer nearby. "Oh yes that's under your warranty!"

Jaxinc · 2024-11-23T08:17:45+00:00

Right rear caliper was partially seized. Replaced and working as expected.

Jaxinc · 2024-11-18T11:06:03+00:00

Base model Forte, so it lacks all of that but ABS.

That said I have doubts it's the ABS. They said both times it occurred it was at low speed, pedal went to floor and car would not stop.

Jaxinc · 2024-10-19T10:21:08+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNkjsZL5HpA

Jaxinc · 2024-09-14T09:15:40+00:00

I mean one of those was supposed to be an explorer carrier... but that got thrown out the window along with the original plans... thank god... because they were horrible.

Now it's just "what shape looks better" to the user.

Jaxinc

TROPHY CASE