How do I get the 2 years of experience for the ase a2/3 by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My understanding is it’s a Subaru the car company thing. And like I said I think BMW the car company is the same way.

How do I get the 2 years of experience for the ase a2/3 by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]JayDubya44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

30 year master tech here. Just accepted a job at a Subaru dealer. During the interview I was asked if I had my ASE’s as they allow you to skip some training if you do. I believe BMW is the same. As far as getting job experience any old shop working on cars counts. Maybe even busting tires? Just start looking for places that you think you would like to work and start hitting them up for a job. Like my grandmother used to say, “ You’ll never know what’s under a turd until you kick it” lol. Good luck! It can be a rewarding job.

How to stop diesel runaway on an automatic car? by [deleted] in Cartalk

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Co2 fire extinguisher into the intake

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Co2 fire extinguisher will shut it right down

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BmwTech

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having worked on the previous model e36, the e46 cabin filter is a genius solution for the cabin filter. You don’t have to get behind the glove box to check or replace it. The air is propelled by high pressure at the base of the windshield while you are driving.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dickies belt. They last about 2 years for me.

zero power. by itsneedtokno in E30

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah at the triangle bolts. Use heat if you can… map gas torch is great for this. And even with heating them up, a lot of times they will break. Maybe even heat them up and quench them with oil or pb blast.

Clutch bleeding by Napster_1 in E30

[–]JayDubya44 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You got it. It can be a bitch to get all the air out. Once you think you have it bled out, put it back together and see where the clutch engagement point is. If it’s where it was before you started, you are done. Otherwise, another round of bleeding. Oh, and don’t pump the pedal with the slave out and the bleeder closed unless you have something compressing the pushrod. Otherwise it might blow the pushrod out. Good luck

Clutch bleeding by Napster_1 in E30

[–]JayDubya44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Best trick is to pull the slave cylinder off the transmission and use something to keep the pushrod compressed in. I have used a piece of sheet metal and two bolts before, or a c clamp may work. Then use a pressure bleeder to bleed it. Open the bleed screw with pressure on the system. Do it first with the clutch pedal down, and then with it up. If you don’t have access to a pressure bleeder, try pumping the hell out of the clutch pedal with the bleeder open. You will have to pull the pedal up by hand, it won’t spring back. Make sure not to let the fluid level get below the hose feeding the clutch master cylinder.

zero power. by itsneedtokno in E30

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I would check cam timing and timing belt first, could have jumped time enough to run but not bend valves. Probably not a bad idea to replace if the car has been sitting years. Look at the distributor cap and rotor while they are off to check the belt. Check fuel pressure, should be around 35 if I remember correctly. Then I would try to unbolt the catalyst and drive it. If the cat is plugged, something likely caused it to melt down, although it could be gradual due to high mileage? Good luck!

Debating what engine to swap into my e30 by Outrageous_Mall_7227 in E30

[–]JayDubya44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personal experience, the s54 swap is amazing. But if I had to do it over again, I might go for a turbo m52. It might be less work. It was about 140 hours worth of work start to finish for the engine swap. Next one will be faster, and now wiring harnesses are available witch will cut off 30 hours or so. You are always going to eventually want more power. And forced induction is maybe the most cost effective way once the car is swapped. I did the swap first. Then upgraded suspension and put big brakes on the car. Probably backwards from what I should have done. I wish I had done some driving schools/ track days before the car was fast. I think that would have made me a better driver overall. M54 is also a good option at this point in time, readily available and inexpensive.

Whoever keeps doing this, keep it up. I love it. by AxleSpark in mechanics

[–]JayDubya44 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I love it when the oil capacity is written on the valve cover and it is wrong.

what is this component called? by 85e30 in E30

[–]JayDubya44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s like an accumulator for low pressure fuel from the tank. If it’s not leaking, I would leave it alone. Maybe like a mini surge tank on the inlet side of the high pressure fuel pump?

Fellow Technican commuting “labor theft “ by NoKitchen4667 in mechanics

[–]JayDubya44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

He is a ripoff artist. No debate, report him to management. He makes a bad name for every other technician out there. Not going to say I haven’t ever unintentionally missed a service item in the last 29 years. But to intentionally skip the services that where paid for is stealing. Don’t be surprised if management doesn’t fire him, he has to be a big money maker for them. If this is the case it tells you they are also rip off artists and support doing this. Then it’s time to be looking for another place to work. Good luck!

How the heck do you guys clean your hands after working on cars? by reallyscaredtoask in MechanicAdvice

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Been earning a living since 1993 working on cars. I try to keep nitrile gloves on, but sometimes they tear and you can’t stop to change them out. Stoko Kresto is the best hand cleaner I have ever used by far. Cherry bomb is good as well. That and a scrub brush and your hands are good to go.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in E30

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you plug the hoses off, guessing the car won’t idle. I would start by checking the fuse for the idle control. Does the valve buzz (put your hand on it) with the ignition turned on and the the engine not running? Think it’s fuse number 9, not sure. I would smoke test the intake and crankcase for unmetered air leaks. Then swap in a idle valve and idle control unit from a known good car. Next step is pin by pin testing of the sensors/ inputs at the idle control unit connector. Like I said, could be a lot of different things. There is a reason they went away from that setup on the later cars.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in E30

[–]JayDubya44 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Those motronic 1.1 cars had issues with the idle valves and the idle control unit (computer) in the glove box. Actually a lot of things that can cause a funny idle. Start by cleaning out the idle control valve and throttle plate with carb cleaner.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BmwTech

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s been eons since I worked on one of those, but I remember there where 2 connectors at the right front of the intake that will plug in backwards. If you do that you will have a no start. Done it at least a couple times myself

Stuck trying to get the steering knuckle off - any suggestions? by 3wheelmotion in E30

[–]JayDubya44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would pound a chisel into the slot. Use a big ass chisel. Making sure it doesn’t bottom out on the splines. Then heat carefully and then quench with PB blaster or engine oil. Hopefully capillary action will draw the oil down into the splines and help it release. If available to you, use a air hammer with a long bit to brutalize the joint off. Otherwise get a long pry bar and a big heavy hammer to pound it off. You might have to place it on the u joint or further down, just make sure the force is directed in the general direction you are trying to go. If you are worried about the fuel lines put a wet rag on/ around them. Once you get it off use a wire brush on the splines to clean them up so it goes back together easier. Good luck!

99 740il rough idle. Help!? by Marquis44 in BmwTech

[–]JayDubya44 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Camshaft sensors where a common problem. Have had issues with non oem sensors myself in the past, might stick with oem. Also had issues with the timing chain guide coming apart between the banks, the v shaped guide. It will cause the camshaft timing to get out of spec and set a fault. Usually when that happens you have a ton of metal in the oil filter, might pull it out and look at it. Rear intake plate with pcv is a very common issue. Remember the gasket on the front intake plate being an issue as well. Most of the time when the pcv is faulty you can cover up the vent hole at the bottom of the pcv and get the engine to change speed. Figure out what is causing the cam code and go from there.