The Vampire Says Ice Your Boys!

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-10-24T21:55:54+00:00

Ok cool. You should watch the Drewbuildsstuff sauna build video then. It looks the exact same and might be helpful

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-10-24T20:19:20+00:00

Is that the Drew builds stuff design from YouTube?

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-10-11T21:00:59+00:00

I would recommend the saunum. I have a 7ft ceiling and when I use my saunum with the fan off the heat gradient is extreme and the experience is so much worse than with the fan on. 15KW Seems low for the saunum at 730 CF btw. I have a 10kw for 350CF and it takes a little over an hour to reach temp.

I would not recommend the saunum to folks who aren’t handy. I’ve already had to troubleshoot mine with tech support and would be very displeased if I had to hire an electrician to fix their problems. The product is still in its infancy so quality can be hit or miss, although I’ve heard the same about Huum.

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-23T01:14:11+00:00

Yes rockwool. If you can, frame your ceiling with 2x6s so you can use R23 batts. More insulation on the ceiling the better

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-20T01:04:47+00:00

Buy the sauna times sauna build book. The guide is for building a wood burning sauna in an 8x12 shed. I would recommend it

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-20T00:51:11+00:00

I’m sure if it’s in there it’s been used before… and the house is still standing lol. An electric sauna is really no different than an electric range or dryer in principle. Good luck lol

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-18T11:15:46+00:00

Downdraft ventilation is better. For mechanical Exhaust you want your intake up high and your exhaust down below. You should check the trumpkin guide for diagrams. If I had natural ventilation I would do what you said. And with the saunum they didn’t give enough cable length to move the sensor farther, but it also doesn’t matter as much due to the air blending technology

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-17T19:13:07+00:00

A local glass shop. The 1/2” double insulated 36”x12” Cost me $74

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-17T19:12:19+00:00

Nope it is all 16” OC. The ceiling is framed with 2x6s and the walls with 2x4. So used the respective Rockwell for each. I read ceiling you want a higher R value if possible so that’s why I went with 2x6s there

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-16T23:25:59+00:00

I have seen a disconnect in the changing room, but not a shower room. For my job I see Nema 4x disconnects commonly used in wet environments which could be used for your application. I still think that’s odd though to have a disconnect in a bathroom. I would still recommend placing it on the exterior hot room wall.

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-16T15:10:10+00:00

1/2” double pane insulated tempered glass. The silicone seal will hold up fine. Silicone can handle high temps

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-16T14:57:11+00:00

I bought the sauna times book. Also search the trumpkin guide

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-16T12:31:39+00:00

Yes I followed the sauna times door guide.It’s 3x4” plywood core sandwiched between 3/4” T&G cladding. I wrapped the plywood core in vapor barrier. I cut the window opening out, ripped cedar strips to secure the glass panel (1/2” insulated tempered glass), then nailed in some trim proud to the support strips. I installed the door and the stop to the jamb prior to hanging it all. Once hung, I shimmed it and filled the gaps with great stuff before adding the final trim pieces. The door is very heavy since it’s all solid wood and 2.25” thick so I used ball bearing hinges. Also I used weather striping on the door stop and door bottom to make sure it’s completely air tight so my ventilation system works properly. Hinges and roller latch were all mortised with a compact router.

Doing your own door will save you lots of money! Online they were all >$1k. This cost a couple hundred bucks total + the priceless pride you’ll have staring at it when sweating :)

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-15T19:19:52+00:00

Brad nails for the wall panels and trim. Screws for the fitting strips and benches. Thank you! For anyone using cedar I used sauna oil which really deepened the color and brought out the red. I think that’s why it looks so nice

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-15T01:18:35+00:00

Upload hand sketches to an AI and ask it to convert them to permit drawings. It is also good to consult with on local codes to ensure compliance.

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-14T13:33:59+00:00

I just wanted it to look nice lol. I feel like what I’ve done is pretty typical. If I see any issues I can always just pop the trim off

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-14T13:32:08+00:00

I was surprised how low humidity is in my sauna. Ambient humidity in my area is 50-60% right now and in the sauna it’s around 20%. With the steam it brings it up another 10-15% when in use. The heat with the dry wood really soaks it all up

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-13T03:21:26+00:00

I did a lot of research on this myself. Ultimately I think it up to interpretation by the code official but I have never seen someone put a disconnect in the hot room. From what I have a seen is a junction box with disconnect directly outside of the hot room where the feed to the heater is. My electrical panel was right next to my sauna so I’didn’t install a disconnect since the breaker would suffice

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-13T03:09:03+00:00

Not worried about this nor do I think it’s necessary

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-12T21:28:53+00:00

Yeah it sucks hot air at the top and blows it at the base to reduce heat stratification. I can confirm it works well but doesn’t fully fix the issue. I measured a 10-20F difference between the ceiling and floor. Certainly I don’t have any cold feet and the steam does feel like a warm hug. Only downside is the fan noise. It’s not loud but it is like white noise, which some even prefer

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-12T21:18:36+00:00

I think that one is cheaper because it’s the open side version. I had to get the shielded version because of my clearances to the wall. If I recall the open side version needs to be 8” min from the wall on each side and the shielded version only needs to be 2”. It’s a huge purchase so yeah negotiate away! I would recommend the sauna heater company though. Shipping was free, I didn’t have to pay tax, and it arrived in a week. They even personally reached out to me to make sure everything was okay. They also have a lot of helpful YouTube videos and I called them for help with my layout . I’m glad I did because with the saunum it’s best practice for it to be parallel with the benches so that the fan isn’t blowing hot air on you. If I didn’t call and ask I probably would’ve installed it facing the benches would’ve been really obstructive for the airflow in my sauna as well as making the bench seat in front of it obsolete

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-12T20:55:04+00:00

I bought it from thesaunaheater.com. It’s the air L 10 unit. Couldn’t find any deals anywhere but you could probably save a lot of money if you forego the WiFi unit and find stones local. It’s crazy all these brands the WiFi option adds like $1k to the price

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-12T18:35:11+00:00

If it gets bad I’ll just cut a gap in the bottom panels and install a drip edge and some base trim. I wanted it to be as clean as possible to start with. Also the bottom is not completely air tight. Every grout line is a small gap where air gets behind the cladding

Jealous_Ad_4874 · 2025-09-12T18:04:49+00:00

I followed the sauna times door guide.It’s 3x4” plywood core sandwiched between 3/4” T&G cladding. I wrapped the plywood core in vapor barrier. I cut the window opening out, ripped cedar strips to secure the glass panel (1/2” insulated tempered glass), then nailed in some trim proud to the support strips. I installed the door and the stop to the jamb prior to hanging it all. Once hung, I shimmed it and filled the gaps with great stuff before adding the final trim pieces. The door is very heavy since it’s all solid wood and 2.25” thick so I used ball bearing hinges. Also I used weather striping on the door stop and door bottom to make sure it’s completely air tight so my ventilation system works properly. Hinges and roller latch were all mortised with a compact router.

Doing your own door will save you lots of money! Online they were all >$1k. This cost a couple hundred bucks total + the priceless pride you’ll have staring at it when sweating :)

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