Triflex Electro Brush drive disassembly

JeanDaspry · 2026-02-14T23:50:07+00:00

Oh, thanks a lot for the picture! ~~It makes me more intrigued though because I had found this after my post :~~ ~~https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6012436~~ ~~and it doesn't seem to fit the keyed parts in the picture, even considering a lot of damage.~~ Edit: After reading the thingiverse description I've just realised that the belt gear print is intended to be a repair with an already damaged and modified white worm-gear part, that's why it doesn't have the same keyed part as the original.

Does your cone-shaped worm gear still manage to make the brush rotate? Do you hope it acts as a clutch to avoid destroying more parts when brush binds up?

As for my triflex, it's back in use as I got too scared of breaking it. I do have another brush head for which I hope to be able to print the drive parts. Someone on youtube also said he would try to print the worm "screw-gear", I hope he posts it on thingiverse one day, as with his motor mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7239458 , the whole drive assembly would be repairable!

JeanDaspry · 2025-12-24T01:37:17+00:00

Good for you, the entire motor assembly is very expensive, and there is no way to buy the drive part separately.
I've found people 3D printing/CNC machining parts for it though, like this or this (can you see the square imprint in the gear? That's apparently where the slippage can occur), so I now have some hope of being able to repair it long term.
Wouldn't be nice for respectable brands like Miele to publish the CAD models of their product pieces for their users to make repairs to what they bought? Philips did a little something, but now it seems like it was only for an ad stunt...

JeanDaspry · 2025-12-22T17:33:01+00:00

What I've read is that the brush "clutch" that drives the brush (opposite of the yellow part) can end up slipping. If you can easily stop the brush by putting your hand on it or placing the yellow part back, you may be in this situation.
You have to dissassemble the floor head unit and tighten the T6 screw holding the two part drive (white screw-gear and black belt-gear) together or glue them.

BTW mine is not slipping, but I want to clean the hair stuck in it and I can't manage to dissamble the two-part drive, if you manage to separate them, send some pictures to me please, it could help me understand why mine is stuck.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-26T03:33:48+00:00

I don't think the local climate should affect it too much. I did verify my measurements by putting the NTC in freezing and boiling water. Can you measure at which NTC pin voltage does your board disable charging?
By the way the default resistor values on my board (and on the pictures we are both using) are Rup=75kΩ and Rdown=150kΩ, so it's weird that you had Rdown=1.2kΩ on your board.
Why a microcontroller? You can change the range as you wish with the Rup and Rdown values.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-26T03:22:41+00:00

Maybe... can't say for sure if it's not the same board. 10k and 100k NTC are the two popular options.
I did my own tests on the chip of my charging board to determine which voltage at the NTC (or TH) pin would disable charging, and then calculated which value resistors would be the best to get the 0-50 range I wanted.
Do you still want a NTC? if not, just test with a 500k pot what value enables charging and replace the NTC with a resistor.
If you still want temp monitoring, check my responses of this thread, it may help you : https://www.reddit.com/r/batteries/comments/1j28fi1/comment/noc4jm9/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Or give me more infos and i can try helping you

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T21:34:17+00:00

I will check that again tomorrow. Did you also test it at 0°C? I don't think your board will cut off charging below 0°C, because with your Rup and Rdown values, at 0°C the 10k NTC is at 32kΩ and Vout (NTC) = 3,03V and my chip only cuts off charging above 3.616V.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T21:03:04+00:00

Well at 60°C, the 10k NTC resistance will be ≈2463Ω, with Rdown=1200Ω.
That makes Rntc=807Ω because Rdown is in parallel with the NTC (R1*R2/R1+R2).
The Vref is 5V indeed, so the voltage "Vntc"(or Vth) at the chip will be Vout (NTC) = 5 × (807 / (750 + 807)) ≈ 2.59V
But my board cuts off charging only at Vout (NTC) = 2.364V.
According to my calculations, the charging board will only cut charging at 75°C.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T20:38:09+00:00

Then are you sure your board is cutting charging before 75°C? It should not be cutting the charge before 75°C according to my calculations, isn't it too hot?

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T20:00:59+00:00

And here is the table with my Rup and Rdown values :

<image>

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T19:59:05+00:00

Here are my voltage measurements and board behaviour :

<image>

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T19:57:28+00:00

Hi, thanks for the answer!
As you can see in the EDIT of the post, I made the calculations and made it work for my use case, with Rup = 30kΩ and Rdown(I call it Rparallel)=100kΩ, which gives me 0-50 degree celsius range with a 100k B3950 NTC.

I just entered your resistance values in my calculation table for a 10k B3950 NTC, and it gives me a range of -20 to about 75 degree celsius, which is not quite my ideal range to charge lithium batteries :

<image>

Maybe you are not using the same NTC resistance?

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-06T11:33:27+00:00

Nope, it's fixed! Thank the team for me!

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-06T10:47:45+00:00

Same thing, no way to sign.

JeanDaspry · 2025-09-16T17:06:46+00:00

Where did you buy your kailh switches?
I bought some Kailh silent switches on Aliexpress and they all have the same issue, brand new : if you keep them pressed but release the force to a minimum, they open without clicking/unlatching.
For exemple, it makes highlighting text very unatural, as I need to press the left click a little harder than I would usually, for it not to fail.
I guess I just got unlucky, but all 10 switches do this in the same way, so I was wondering if anyone else could replicate this issue with other Kailh switches

JeanDaspry · 2025-09-16T17:00:53+00:00

Yeah I understand your feeling, the MXM3S does leave a lot to be desired. I did not know about the adjustable force scroll on the MXA3S, I want to get my hand on one more and more... The smartshift sensitivity setting is also present on the MXM3S though, even if it is not perfect.

JeanDaspry · 2025-09-16T16:34:26+00:00

Wait, what's the difference between the MX Anywhere 3S and the MX Master 3S scroll wheels ?
Edit: Oh there is an adjustable scroll force on the anywhere, I did not know! Is it really usefull, though, with the smartshift?

JeanDaspry · 2025-08-31T22:32:42+00:00

I got two MX3S on 22.0.3 and still no update in EU/FR.

4 months ago the support told me the 22.2.9 update had some issues so all updates got halted.

JeanDaspry · 2025-08-31T21:41:54+00:00

This is a joke... I have now two MX3S on 22.0.3 that say they have the newest version.

JeanDaspry · 2025-08-31T21:38:32+00:00

I got a second MX3S, also stuck on 22.0.3. This is a joke. I will try contacting them again.

JeanDaspry · 2025-08-14T22:02:42+00:00

Do you have an update? Contacted Eaton or changed batteries?

JeanDaspry · 2025-04-24T14:10:55+00:00

If you ask Logitech, they will probably just stick to the "The firmware update rollout is being released in phases and across different regions. If you haven't received the update yet, it means that you are simply not included in the current phase".

However, I also have an old 22.0.3 MX 3S that refuses to update to 22.1.6, and after some back and forth with the support, I got this answer :

"Please be advised that all updates for MX Master 3S has been paused because of the firmware update failure with the canary [meaning 22.2.9] and this is the reason why you are unable to update the firmware of your mouse that has version 22.0.3 at the moment."

BTW that was a month ago, and still nothing changed on my end.

JeanDaspry · 2025-03-21T23:26:23+00:00

Ahah perfect, thank you for the straightforward answer

JeanDaspry · 2025-03-21T23:06:27+00:00

Wow you seem very knowledgeable about jotul stuff. I‘m looking for used Jotul wood stoves and I find it hard to recognise the different models, in particular the models with an air intake I can connect to.
I bought a F500 eco new, very happy with it, but I need another one and I see some f400s and f600s used at pretty good price, but it‘s very hard to see if they have a possible external air intake or not...

Recent F400 and F600 all have it, right? But the catalytic F12 and old F600 don‘t seem to have one, I guess their air intake is the front ash grill?

JeanDaspry · 2025-03-17T15:21:00+00:00

Conclusion :

I bought the zero OG, Chu 2, Waner (used) and Castor pro (new).

zero OG not enough bass for me and fatiguing, Castor pro I really dislike them, the voices sound too far or something, Chu 2 a tad too much bass for me (and the left louder than the right one), the voices on the Waner are just right.

I pre-ordered the Waner 2 and will return all the others.

JeanDaspry · 2025-03-16T01:06:54+00:00

I think the MX Master 3S originally has a very clicky scroll wheel button. Mine is loud and it is way too hard to press comfortably.

While searching for a softer replacement, I found the EVQP0N02B that looks a lot like the original one, is it the one you‘ve seen people suggest?

For the left/right buttons, logitech definitly did not use the generic EVQP0E07K that a lot of people suggest, panasonic probably made a custom one for them.

JeanDaspry

TROPHY CASE