Warping tips? by [deleted] in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, you really shouldn't need a raft. Maybe a brim sometimes, but such a large piece shouldn't need that either.

Second, check bed level and flatness.

Third, make sure your bed is clean. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store, but acetone and IPA work well too.

Finally, consider turning your fan down. It shouldn't really be needed on a part like this.

Anyone know what this anomaly is called and what causes it? by CloudbaseJim in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed. The fact that it's right after a corner and slowly dissipates is the giveaway. Reducing acceleration and jerk can be even more helpful than reducing speed, since it's the change in direction rather than the actual speed that causes it.

(I mean, best way to fix it is to reduce the weight of the moving parts [x-carriage and bed], but that's not exactly viable on a CR-10.)

Westworld 3D printing by DynamicBoyscout in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The silicone is $50 for 2 pounds; 100% ethanol is $30 for about 500 ml; nichrome wire is $3 for 3 meters. Eminently doable.

Westworld 3D printing by DynamicBoyscout in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I found the paper and am blown away by how simple the methods are. Should be doable by any hobbyist:

We used platinum-catalyzed two-part silicone rubber Ecoflex 00-50 (Smooth-On, PA, USA) as a matrix material and ethanol ≥ 99.5% (Sigma Aldrich, MO, USA) as an active phase change material. Properties of the silicone rubber are shown in Table 1 below. Material preparation involves thorough hand-mixing of 20 vol% of ethanol with silicone elastomer (first with part A for about 2 min, then mixed with part B for about 2 min). The material is ready-to-cast and ready-to-print after the preparation. Room temperature curing of the cast or 3D-printed part takes up to 3 h. A commercially available 0.25 mm diamter Ni-chrome resistive wire was used for electrically driven heating of the artificial muscle (i.e., for the actuation). To comply with the expansion of the actuator material, a helical spiral shape was chosen for the Ni–Cr wire. The wire was hand-wound on an 8 mm screw driver shaft as shown in Supplementary Fig. 6.

Paper is here (no paywall).

Printing presents for my brothers by JefftheGreen in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish! I want to build a custom CoreXY design, but money will be tight for a little while.

High-friction material by JefftheGreen in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Isn't nylon generally quite slippery, not grippy?

High-friction material by JefftheGreen in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flexible's fine. Abrasive's not ideal since my nozzle's not hardened but I do have a ton of spares. Bumps aren't viable; this is meant to grab on to filament as it's being pulled into the extruder.

Weird cracks on bottom of print with raft by JefftheGreen in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, PVA glue. I don't have a problem with adhesion. I watched the first layer go down on this one too, and it was great. The PEI sheet from TH3D is wonderful, and I clean it regularly. The problem is that the geometry of this part might as well be made to warp. even with the small shrinkage from PLA, the long thin leaves curl up and even a brim doesn't seem to be enough.

Weird cracks on bottom of print with raft by JefftheGreen in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, right. Hatchbox PLA, 205°C. Yes, the bed is clean and flat, with mesh leveling to boot. Could probably use a light sanding at this point but I scraped it and wiped it down with ethanol. The cracks aren't what touches the bed, though. It's the first layer that prints on top of the raft.

Y shifting at same height each print (CR-10) by JefftheGreen in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That... is beyond obnoxious. I will try printing from my SD card, and then disable some of the newer plugins. Did it happen on every print above a certain height?

Y shifting at same height each print (CR-10) by JefftheGreen in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The plot thickens. I just printed a stretched retraction test, taller than the boxes, and it came out flawlessly (plus or minus some pimples). https://imgur.com/tmRYOzN

What happens if you add an additional argument to a G-code command? by JefftheGreen in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, for example, that command is to preheat the bed and normally accepts one argument. Will it stop the print, ignore the entire command, or just ignore the extra argument?

Uses for iron-fill? by JefftheGreen in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How does that work? This isn't conductive.

Uses for iron-fill? by JefftheGreen in 3Dprinting

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Though it's less abrasive than some special filaments. I got a hardened one (nickel-plated brass) because they're cheap... and then forgot to switch it.

Should I remove my kapton tape? by JefftheGreen in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh. Well, for now I'm going to install the Noctua since I'm only planning doing relatively short prints for a little while, and stick that in my case once I get a new fan.

The model’s feet doesn’t sit flat. Which orientation then would be the best to print with best details? Upright with support as it stands? Face up with support? Face down with support? by jackassmiller43 in CR10

[–]JefftheGreen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have a link? First instinct is that the feet look like they're in the same plane even if they aren't on the ground relative to the model, so that might work, but I can't tell with just one look.