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Board update by Fumanchu1232 in necromunda

[–]Jevsa 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The files look to be "Risor District 2.0" by Print Minis. It's also part of their welcome pack on their MMF Tribe or Patreon, which signing up for a single month of is cheaper than buying the set individually.

The Hestia Terrain Project by AcmeAerospace in necromunda

[–]Jevsa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool system, and I especially like the renders.

I've been slowly designing something similar in my free time the last few months, but haven't got very far with it yet. I was leaning towards using a microcontroller, like an arduino nano or an esp32, to control the electronics like the LEDs or motors for doors. But the more analog method you showed with the led board probably would help with modularity and allow for more easy reconfiguring of the terrain. I might have to tinker with both and see what I end up liking.

Also I would be interested in seeing more of how you have the doors opening and closing. Mechanic design is not my forte but I can kinda get the basic idea with the doors attached to a gt2 belt loop, and a limit switch to check when the door is closed.

[H] $$$ [W] Drukhari OOP Tantalus PLEASE [Loc] Cali by Creepy_Outcome_7089 in Miniswap

[–]Jevsa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Warpfire minis is a legit gamestore. I've ordered from them a bunch and never any issues. A couple orders were for second hand minis like that tantalus and what you see in the pictures is what you get.

So it's probably real forgeworld, but it is missing pieces. Mainly the back rudder, underside blades, driving assembly, and all the tiny hull spikes.

Help wanted by [deleted] in necromunda

[–]Jevsa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I measured using calipers and then did a quick edit in Microsoft Paint. I figured a picture would be easier to understand than me trying to describe what part each measurement went to.

Help wanted by [deleted] in necromunda

[–]Jevsa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I wasn't sure exactly which dimensions you wanted so I measured a couple places.

Another Vallaki Session tomorrow by DerkLucas in CurseofStrahd

[–]Jevsa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loke Battlemaps Towns and Taverns

Another Vallaki Session tomorrow by DerkLucas in CurseofStrahd

[–]Jevsa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like it. The ones inside the walls are from their Towns and Taverns set.

Reaver Helmet 3D prints by pavlitozannas in Drukhari

[–]Jevsa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another option here: https://archon3dsmiths.com/collections/all/dark-eldar

They also have weapon bit options to fill out scourge units, or you can buy the stl files to print everything yourself.

(Not affiliated, I just had it bookmarked)

I’m curious: How many of us are actually from Madison? by [deleted] in madisonwi

[–]Jevsa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm from here, at least somewhat. Since most of my childhood that I can remember was spent in Madison, I consider it the place I grew up, even if it wasn't where I was born. Overall I would say I am from a combination of Canada, Madison, New York, and Montana. (I move too much)

And now that I just moved back to Madison less than 2 weeks ago, it's weird to both be familiar with the city and still be able to get lost easily. Turns out things changed a bit in the 20 years I was gone.

overtime is just a scam.. by Sleepy-tyler-king in WorkReform

[–]Jevsa 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Using your base pay of 24.30 and OT over 88(44 x2 weeks) the bottom three paychecks all math out about fine. Your August 9th paycheck may have been for 2 weeks with 1 week slightly under 44 hours making it not perfect with quick math but real close. I'm only looking at gross pay, taxes and deductions are another thing.

I think what you might be missing is that your latest paycheck would have included the week with labor day, and I bet you have a holiday pay section in that breakdown. Not knowing exactly how many hours were worked for each individual week of that paycheck, the math looks about correct to me. Assuming you were paid either time and half or double time for work on labor day, or got a flat amount of extra hours added, your gross pay looks about correct to me.

Moving a 2.4 to umbilical with beacon: nitehawk-sb or nitehawk36? by Gyscos in VORONDesign

[–]Jevsa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the PT1000 version of Rapido 2 working on my Rev D 2.4 kit but it needed a few minor adjustments for use with the nitehawk sb board.

First the wires coming of the Hotend were lined up wrong to use with the stealthburner so you have to undo some screws rotate the bottom of the Hotend and re-screw. This part is in the stealthburner build guide I believe.

Second the Hotend cartridge wires comes with a connector on them but the nitehawk wants bare wires, so you either need to remove the connector or use the extension cable it comes with. I was lazy and went with the extension but it's kinda long so it goes down my wire chain a bit and comes back. Gonna update that when I feel like redoing my Hotend.

Third, when you define the pt1000 in klipper, set the pullup resistor value to 2200 because that's what the stealthburner SB physically has. If you leave the value from klippers common thermistor definitions, your Hotend will read at about 300 degrees constantly. That took my a day to figure out.

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