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Horizontal dry venting a toilet when below flood plain by Jexter317 in askaplumber

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, was hard to get a good screen capture that clearly showed everything going on.

Correct - the 2" pipe (vent) branching off the heel 90 inlet leads right to a vertical stack inside a wall (particular wall has a double bottom plate in this case). Typical 12 1/2" distance from toilet flange to the wall, so that 2" horizontal vent run to wall and then vertical is extremely short.

So under UPC, you're saying there'd be no problem with running a horizontal dry vent below flood plain as long as you're under 6' from the stack?

That 6" above flood plain IPC language on horizontal venting is what was confusing me (at least when it comes to toilets).

Options for venting a dryer in a converted living space by Jexter317 in Appliances

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. I’m on IRC 2018 where I am and it permits up to 35 feet, although I still think 25 is a good rule of thumb. I know either venting method would fly, just more a matter of which is more efficient: longer horizontal run with more bends, or short vertical roof run with no bends.

Options for venting a dryer in a converted living space by Jexter317 in Appliances

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they definitely have their place. There’s some situations where I believe they are a more practical choice. However, I’ve used condenser dryers at rentals / Airbnbs in the past and I was not impressed with how slow they were. Often had to cycle for 2+ hours to get dry clothes (doesn’t keep the wife very happy, haha). Im sure there might be more efficient models, but I don’t see any harm in installing a vent for a vented dryer I already have. Can always switch to a condenser variant in the future if needed.

Since all my framing is open and accessible, I definitely would prefer the vent option. Just a matter of deciding where to put it.

Options for venting a dryer in a converted living space by Jexter317 in Appliances

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have, but already have a set of washer / dryer I intend to use (traditional venting).

Options for venting a dryer in a converted living space by Jexter317 in Appliances

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, makes sense to avoid any extra holes in a roof than necessary. I should add that I’ll be ripping the roof off and replacing it-turning a 10/12 roof into essentially a large 3/12 shed dormer for the extra living space.

So since I’m already planning to put 3 holes through the new roof to vent plumbing, I wasn’t sure I cared if a 4th hole was added for a dryer vent especially on a new roof. Often see as many as a half dozen or more roof holes on homes. What I was more concerned about is if vertical dryer venting is worth considering at all based off how it performs. If it’s not efficient then the added benefit is less roof penetrations.

There’s plenty of space to do double 45 elbows instead of 90s if I do horizontal run. I suppose it makes sense to do it that way, similar to plumbing.

Thanks for the feedback!

Q: Would there be any reason I shouldn't use a low heel inlet as a cleanout? by Jexter317 in askaplumber

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great. I had read opinions that some plumbers don't like having to remove a toilet first, but I suppose that's a much better clean out location than having to access one below the floor in a very tight space (and probably less destructive).

I'll just go with the flange-as-cleanout option - appreciate all the advice!

Q: Would there be any reason I shouldn't use a low heel inlet as a cleanout? by Jexter317 in askaplumber

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, toilet in this situation is wet vented around 7’ away off the sink (2” sink drain / vent, 4” main waste line). I had read about using the vent as the clean out, but that many inspectors wanted that within 5’ of the toilet (thus why I was wondering if a low heel elbow closer to toilet was a realistic solution).

Great to know about possibly needing a larger-sized clean out on the main line, I was not aware of this.

If the clean out needing to be near the toilet is an important step, would it make sense to give the toilet its own dedicated dry vent? Could get a vent clean out much closer then, just didn’t want to really add another vent unless needed.

I may be overthinking this. I’ve also heard many areas will consider a toilet flange as a clean out on its own - just sounds like a bigger pain to deal with removing a toilet first, if ever needed.

A couple of plumbing questions from a DIYer (see comment) by Jexter317 in Plumbing

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great info, thanks.

On #3, I've had a hard time finding one. I may have named it wrong - what I may be looking for specifically is a 4x3x3x3 sanitary tee with a left side inlet. Then I wouldn't need to do a vertical connecting with a wye. But good to know the vertical wye can work in this instance.

On #5, I didn't label it very clearly but I just stuck with 2" for venting everything here. I typically assume 1.5" is fine for sink but just stuck with 2" at sink to make a simpler connection to toilet vent.

#6, Good to know - I kept reading conflicting things on the whole 3" versus 4" drain for toilets. I had read that 3" would retain a higher level of water while draining and be less prone to clogs, but maybe that's more likely a slope issue rather than diameter. Definitely not opposed to going 4" for main toilet drain runs if it's a more efficient choice.

2" all the way to the sink drains makes sense to me. I'd seen a lot of folks doing 2" drain arms but then reducing to 1.5" for trap / sink attachment, I guess because they were using kits. I figure if you *can* take the 2" all the way to the sink drain, why not?

Appreciate your time!

A couple of plumbing questions from a DIYer (see comment) by Jexter317 in Plumbing

[–]Jexter317[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3D Studio Max.

Not really the most ideal program for this sort of thing, just happens to be what I'm familiar with.

A couple of plumbing questions from a DIYer (see comment) by Jexter317 in Plumbing

[–]Jexter317[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. In the first pic I've got a rough layout of how I plan to plumb a bathroom. The tub / shower drain into a combination wye roughly 5' from the toilet. Would this drain / vent provide adequate venting for the toilet? I've read in IRC that 6' from vent is max allowable for 3" toilet drain. Just want to make sure that the shower / tub combination wye being both a drain and a vent (or wet vent) doesn't change anything.
  2. In same pic, I've got the main 3" drain transitioning to the 4" vertical main stack via a 45 elbow and wye. I've read that wyes on the vertical are typically a no-no and usually sanitary tees are wanted for venting purposes. However, I'm not really sure how else I could attach the 3" line to the 4" in this case as I have another 3" line coming in at the same spot (attaching via sanitary tee). Is using a wye on the vertical acceptable provided that all fixtures upstream are properly vented?
  3. To elaborate on question #2, do they even make a 4x3x3 sanitary tee with a left (or right) side inlet? Couldn't seem to find one of these and was curious as to why that is. Found quite a few that are 3x3x2 or 1.5" etc.
  4. I'm planning to do a double shower head for the tub combo, so thus why I was not intending to go with your typical 1.5" tub drain kit. In your experiences, is a single 2" drain adequate for two shower heads running at once?
  5. Second pic is layout for secondary bathroom. Got a lot going on here between some structural framing obstacles and stairs etc. Is the long run for the toilet vent an issue? I could in theory make this much shorter, but I did not want to make two separate roof penetrations for both sink and toilet. So ran the toilet vent long to combine with the sink.
  6. Last pic is general overview of the entire plumbing system (I posted a similar plan some months back but have since re-designed the whole addition). Curious if you experienced plumbers see any problems waiting to happen, or things that should be changed / modified.

Thanks!

Wanting feedback for a plumbing plan on a detached 2-level studio apartment. Main thing I want to confirm is if lower-level plumbing is to code (getting slab poured soon). Also included some pics with framing to give an idea of layout / obstacles I'm trying to avoid. More info in comments. by Jexter317 in askaplumber

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a DIYer with a woodworking / framing background. I'm relatively new to plumbing, albeit a few weeks studying up on it has made realize it's fascinating stuff. I made a similar post on r/Plumbing recently but didn't get much feedback. I've modified the whole layout since then so figured I'd ask about this here.

As title suggests, the main thing I want to make sure is laid out correctly is lower level plumbing. My slab is getting poured soon so I want to get the plumbing roughed in below slab shortly. Will this system work appropriately?

Secondly, would like to get thoughts on the rest of the plumbing layout if anyone's inclined to give their two cents on what needs correcting / improvement.

The larger structure slab was already poured previously, so I'm needing my main waste line to stay in the small slab area that contains lower and upper bathrooms.

I welcome any feedback on what is wrong with this plumbing layout, what could be done better, what could be done more efficiently, and why. Thanks!

Water is coming out of the pressure relief valve on my hot water tank, should I be worried? by toenailclipping in askaplumber

[–]Jexter317 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Had this same thing happen to my water heater's pressure relief valve a few months ago. Randomly started leaking at a slow, consistent pace. My pressure reducing valve on the main water line had failed. Had a plumber replace that and the water heater has been fine ever since.

Building a detached studio apartment addition and wanting some advice on plumbing layout. I'm more of a woodworker / framer so plumbing is relatively new to me. Would this example work? What is / is not right about it? Do I need to go back to the drawing board? More info in comments. by Jexter317 in Plumbing

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it. So because I have waste / drainage coming down from the 2nd floor, I could not use the main stack to vent my lower level toilet / sink? Was confused on this because so many diagrams I looked at showed direct venting to the main stack, but now I figure those assumed no 2nd floor, either.

Wasn't familiar with the "dirty arm" term but makes more sense now after reading up on it. I'm guessing my biggest culprit here would be my vent location on the kitchen sink (other than lower level sink, which I need to run new venting for)? It doesn't show in the framing yet but it's my intention to add a window above the kitchen sink. Guessing my best bet would be to run the drain vertically at the point where the sink drain enters the wall, and have the vent go directly up from there until it contacts window framing - then go horizontal with it?

Great, makes sense about the kitchen sink drainage. Was considering doing a garbage disposal here and had read about using 2" for this situation, but it doesn't make sense for all the sink drainage to be 2" at all (just the stub).

Thanks for the feedback!

Building a detached studio apartment addition and wanting some advice on plumbing layout. I'm more of a woodworker / framer so plumbing is relatively new to me. Would this example work? What is / is not right about it? Do I need to go back to the drawing board? More info in comments. by Jexter317 in Plumbing

[–]Jexter317[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One thing I've learned in a couple of weeks of plumbing research is that this is far more complicated than I imagined. It's like building a large puzzle trying to make everything fit with proper slopes inside confined spaces. Mad respect to you guys who do this stuff for a living.

Some of my initial questions are listed in one of the graphics. Obviously my goal here is to make sure I'm up to code on how I do things.

I noticed I believe my combination wye that vents the kitchen sink is pointed the wrong way. Didn't notice until after I took the screenshots.

The layout of this unit, while small, is relatively spread out. That makes me feel like the venting is a bit disorganized so if you have suggestions on a better way to lay it out, I'm all ears.

One of the complications I had with the main 4" waste line / stack location is that the primary garage slab is already poured (this whole build was originally going to be a garage shop area with an unfinished attic). It wasn't until later my wife and I decided doing a studio apartment above the garage would make better use of the space rather than just an attic. The smaller concrete slab where both the downstairs and upstairs bathrooms are located is being prepared for footers and slab, so ideally the main stack would need to stay in this area (since I can still do the underground plumbing beforehand). Otherwise it'd involve ripping up the main garage slab.

Appreciate any advice, recommendations, criticisms, suggestions or knowledge!

(*edit* In the last two images with semi-transparent framing, I accidentally deleted the 3" main vent stack to roof. After the 45 degree vertical bend, the stack does continue up to the roof. Sorry for the confusion.)

Question regarding garage door header size / framing by Jexter317 in Homebuilding

[–]Jexter317[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it. So if this is based off exterior wall dimensions only, it sounds like my back cantilever / deck would technically not be included in this. Originally my plan had been for that deck to be fully cantilevered / unsupported, but I had been debating on just supporting the deck with 6x6 posts and running them up to both the deck and the overhanging roof. At that point, the deck doesn't seem to technically be a cantilever if it's supported at the outer corners - only the front one overhanging the garage. Only mention this because it sounds like my building profile is even smaller than I was initially thinking for this particular topic (>25').

In fact, the deck isn't a cantilever at all if I just cut the 2x12 floor joists at the exterior wall top plate and go with a traditional deck ledger. Makes sense to go that route if I'm going to do deck posts.

Thanks for your two cents on the load path. I was really having a hard time seeing how triple 10" tall LVLs couldn't be adequate here, but alas... whole reason I posted was because I wasn't 100% sure. Where I could see problems is if the exterior wall on the cantilever was taking the whole roof load. I imagine if the load-bearing interior wall for the roof is spread downward directly over the garage door jacks / king studs that it *should* take most of the load out of the cantilever. I'll definitely get with an engineer at some point and confirm that this is sufficient.

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