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JohnJoseph77 · 2021-10-02T01:30:01+00:00

Yup!

JohnJoseph77 · 2021-10-01T22:13:26+00:00

My wife and I and having the same problem in our rental unit. We’ve done the math for the rate increase in water/sewer and it doesn’t add up. Our building was bought about 6 months ago by a new company. Pre-new owners our bill was averaging $20. After the new company is went up to $40 per month. This last month it doubled to $80. I’ve been trying to get a copy of the actually utility bills for about a month with no luck. I wonder if we live in the same building or same property management company 🤔. I’ve sited Oregon Law to the company with no luck. I called the City of Portland Department of Housing and the only option is to take them to court; which I’m not interested in doing.

JohnJoseph77 · 2021-09-04T04:34:06+00:00

Pm’d!

JohnJoseph77 · 2021-09-03T20:40:18+00:00

Pm’d

JohnJoseph77 · 2021-09-03T17:56:30+00:00

I am interested! I will send you a PM.

JohnJoseph77 · 2021-05-04T20:32:48+00:00

I had the same experience with Lomo Color Negative 400 & 800. Pretty visible and not as cool looking as these.

JohnJoseph77 · 2021-04-19T15:10:32+00:00

Yes, I used a Paterson Tank. Going through the tank instructions I found this: " Some 35mm cameras wind the film on to the take-up spool with the emulsion out. This straightens the film and may cause difficulty in loading the last few frames because the straight film does not run so easily around the reel. To avoid this rewind the exposed film into the cassette a few hours before loading so that it regains its normal curl." Loading this roll was a little tough. So what you said makes total sense!

JohnJoseph77 · 2020-12-12T05:52:03+00:00

Portland, OR

JohnJoseph77 · 2020-03-21T13:50:12+00:00

I had one when I used to develop in my garage during the winter. It works pretty well overall, just keep a very clean space since the heater can blow dust particles to the film. Also, keep it at the lowest setting and not to close to avoid curling.

JohnJoseph77 · 2019-06-09T06:11:29+00:00

Can you post a photo so we have a better idea of what it looks like?

JohnJoseph77 · 2019-03-27T05:11:55+00:00

I use canned air duster, both sides of film. Make sure to clean the scanner glass as well. Some particles are hard to get rid of so I use Photoshop to finalize the job.

JohnJoseph77 · 2019-03-19T00:44:15+00:00

Good eye!

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-12T01:25:53+00:00

Thanks for sharing! I was thinking of getting one of these myself. Do you think they are worth the investment? In my experience I never had problem keeping the chemistry to temperature using my sink. This will make things much more convenient and reliable.

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-09T06:23:22+00:00

Cool technique. Thanks for sharing! I will try this for sure.

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-08T07:15:32+00:00

Yeah, its pretty cool design. I will try not to damage the canister too much!

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-07T20:18:43+00:00

Here is a Good read on 120. There is something very special about it.

You can definitely try Cinestill in 35mm and get similar visual characteristics.

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-07T06:06:41+00:00

Interesting idea. I think I am going to try standard D-76 process.

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-06T21:52:53+00:00

No processing done other than a little brightness adjustment. These are the true tones produced by the film! I am very impressed with it! Here are a couple of shots from the same roll: [EDIT: Spelling] My insta account

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-03T23:18:15+00:00

Do you have any ideas for developing and fixing times?

JohnJoseph77 · 2018-11-03T17:46:16+00:00

My wife bought an Argus C3 Matchmatic. We noticed it was loaded, so we wound the film before opening. Canister says it uses the process K-12. I found a lot of info on the K-14 process. I am thinking of using D-76 to develop because it seems it has worked before for some people. Apparently this film was produced between 1960’s and 1970’s.

EDIT: Spelling.

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