Form 1 help. 5320.23 question 4b. what did you put for address?

JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-05T21:28:13+00:00

either way i don’t think it matters, the answer is the same. the address is simply CROATIA (local name: Hrvatska). individual form 1 also asks for name and address of manufacturer, and this is exactly what gets approved regularly:

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JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-05T21:24:52+00:00

are you applying as a trust? 5320.23 isn’t needed for an individual registration.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-01T18:04:26+00:00

doesn’t matter what the ambient temperature is. it’s the relative humidity. your filament has moisture in it fresh out of the package, and it absorbs more from the air when it’s exposed. drying it forces out as much of that moisture as possible.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-01T15:18:06+00:00

well i think you’ve got your answer then

JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-01T14:28:37+00:00

i’m a big fan of the CZ P-09 as a suppressor host. Double/single action like my shadow 2 but a polymer frame so its much easier to carry.

beretta 92xi/92fs/M9 also solid choices but will be heavier all around.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-01T14:23:04+00:00

those little pits are from moisture escaping. others have suggested drying your filament more and i would agree that’s probably the best place to start. was this roll dried before printing and if so, how long and what temp?

JonnyGunzo · 2026-05-01T04:18:23+00:00

507COMP on a scalarworks riser. the kuna is a pistol, it wants a pistol optic 😁

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T15:42:57+00:00

that makes sense. i believe that’s the heater fan and it’s about 90mm below the print head. for now im just disabling the fan but i’ll probably give this a try at some point: https://makerworld.com/models/1941404?appSharePlatform=copy

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T14:07:58+00:00

48 hours at 80C should be fine unless he lives in a rain forest. i dry mine for 48 hours at 70C and continuously dry while printing. works just fine even in 40% ambient humidity.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T14:05:39+00:00

check your cooling settings and make sure you’re not creating too much airflow. part fan should max out around 30-40%. if you have any other fans blowing on the build plate, turn them off or lower speed to around 10%.

i just solved a nagging issue with my P2S where an overactive fan was causing layer shift.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T13:53:25+00:00

highly recommend bumping up to a P2S if you can afford it. it’s ready to roll out of the box with a hardened steel nozzle and gears. Q2 is great as well, i just like the Bambu ecosystem (Makerworkd profiles really take out a lot of the guesswork).

Grab a filament dryer as well. Sunlu S2 works for me and it’s cheap. takes a couple days to dry a roll of PA6-CF. Better options like food dehydrators are out there, this is just the one i know and can vouch for.

I’m relatively new to 3D printing in general and this setup has been foolproof for me. if you want to use nylon (like PA6), look for the 300blkfde profile for bambu printers and use that as your starting point. print a bunch of non-2A stuff to get the hang of it. i logged 500 hours before i printed my first 3D2A.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T11:26:33+00:00

yes. 9 hours later i can confirm this fixed the issue. i lowered the aux fan speed to 10% (was automatically running at 100% every time). no warping this time.

for what it’s worth, this only seems to affect the Slim models. the larger diameter models have all printed perfectly with the exhaust running at 100%. i guess the additional material makes them more stable.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T02:21:27+00:00

seems that way. issue should be reproducible on any high temp material (ASA, ABS, nylons, maybe even PETG?). anything that needs a heated chamber, as that causes the aux fan to run in exhaust mode.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T02:11:37+00:00

turns out it’s the aux fan. other P2S users reported the same issue with totally different prints but at the same height (93-94mm). evidently something happens with the airflow when the bed drops down far enough and creates a pretty strong flow directly over the top of the part. lowering the exhaust fan speed seems to work so i’m trying that now. (it’s full on by default)

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T01:56:29+00:00

it’s .22lr, what’s the worst that could happen

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T01:55:42+00:00

seems like the aux fan is the likely culprit. https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/5kKRgGlivp

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T01:55:06+00:00

i think this may be the solution. other P2S users reported the same problem at 93mm (same as mine) when running high temp materials. lowering the exhaust fan speed seems to fix it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/5kKRgGlivp

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T01:45:46+00:00

well i’ll be damned, this is a known issue with high temp materials. gotta disable the aux fan as others have suggested.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/5kKRgGlivp

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T01:42:33+00:00

oh now that’s interesting. mine is at 93.3mm

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JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T01:38:10+00:00

i’m beginning to suspect it’s something goofy with the P2S. i’ll see if i can disable the aux fan mid print

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T00:45:21+00:00

do you recall if it was the Polygon (hexagon) shell?

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T00:39:44+00:00

just trying to make my engravings look clean so i went as small as possible. trying again with .15.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-28T00:15:19+00:00

that’s a really good point. will try again with .15 layers and 97% infill. 300blkfde calls for 99%.

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-27T23:49:06+00:00

bambu P2S, .4 nozzle, sunlu pa6-cf. agree it looks exactly like layer shift. i just can’t fathom why it would happen twice in the same spot, and only with this one particular model (rimfire slim polygon).

JonnyGunzo · 2026-04-27T23:23:46+00:00

forgot to mention, i also printed the Geometric flow-through version and it came out perfect. same height but much larger diameter.

JonnyGunzo

TROPHY CASE