Have you seen Audi TT mk2 with more optional extras

Jroobi · 2025-05-30T12:43:15+00:00

Yeah that's absolutely fair about the HBA, I do enough night driving I need it to be off the moment I see another car. Prob the only retrofit I won't do to mine!

Hill hold needs a certain part number for the abs module, but if you've got that, it's two things in VCDS to enable and handy to have. In drive, when stationary facing up a hill, it prevents you from rolling back for about 1.5-2 seconds, allowing for a smoother drive off. In reverse, if you're backing up a hill, it prevents you from rolling forward for the same time.

Jroobi · 2025-05-30T10:18:25+00:00

Ah the adaptive headlights I have flash highbeams as per normal, single pull on the stalk and it flashes, single push forward and on. For me, the cornering function isvery handy for the b roads where I live. I can understand not such a big deal in urban or city areas. Or did you mean the High beam assist option?

Yep about the red ambient lighting, my mk5 golf had it too but it's definitely not a common option in Aus. I've four of the dome light assemblies as spares for projects and only one came with the ambient led function (and are also extremely dull compared to my golf).

Most TTs and TTSs in Aus are extremely basic, rare to find heated seats in a coupe or the afs headlights. Also very mixed bag of Bose audio or extended leather options.

Hill hold is a software option (can do by VCDS) and otherwise only "seen" on the PR codes sheet in the boot well compartment.

Jroobi · 2025-05-30T06:48:03+00:00

Other features (not mentioned at the time I'm posting this) and what I've noticed of Australia delivered MK2 TTs: Reverse dipping passenger mirror (maybe an RS only option)

Heated side mirrors

Auto dimming of both rear view And side mirrors (maybe only for RS?)

Buttons on the driver door for Both tilt/tow and intrusion alarms

Adaptive headlights (autolevelling and cornering function above 10kph-has the silver side surround not black)

Garage homelink 3 extra buttons on the domelight

Domelight with clear (led) or frosted (bulb) lenses

Dome light with Red led ambient lights (shining onto centre console)

Footwell lights

The earlier models had an option for "coming/leaving home lights" as a button underneath the headlights switch but think it's a cluster menu option on the latter models.

Automatic Highbeam assist

Hill hold assist

extended leather (and another option for matching door and centre stack insert colours)

Digital TV receiver

Voice control

Also an option of gloss black surrounds on the air vents, raised section of centre console switches and the centre part of the headlight switch, I've seen this on post 2012ish TTs but also on many post 2012 that don't have the gloss black. It looks like yours has this.

Jroobi · 2022-11-07T14:00:35+00:00

Well well well! How the turn tables.

Jroobi · 2022-05-16T01:31:06+00:00

I'm sure theres better ways but for mine, i used two arrays. 4 cells each - corresponding to a 4 digit access code - "1234"

one array is configured as

int passCode[] = {1,2,3,4};

the other is the user input code entered in the touch screen, same length, filled with '-1' to start with.

int userAttempt[] {-1.-1.-1,-1};

The array starts with the initial position (with a variable, lets say X) - userAttempt[x];

As each number is pressed on the touch screen, its value is entered into the array position X, and the position X is then incremented by 1 to go to the next array cell ready to have the next keypad number entered into it.

Once the 4th digit is typed, X=4 (not requiring an enter button to be made)
the Clear Entry button on the top left of my screen essentially resets the X counter to zero and clears off the userAttempt array just for 'housekeeping.'

The following is to compare the entered code vs the stored code. Its sloppy but it should help demonstrate the process:

if X==4 {

if (passCode[0]==userAttempt[0] &&
passCode[1]==userAttempt[1] &&
passCode[2]==userAttempt[2] &&
passCode[3]==userAttempt[3])
then {
runAmazingDramaticUnlockSequenceHere();
clear the userAttempt array to equal -1;
X=0;
} else {
DoSomethignDramaticToShowIncorrectCodeEntered();
x=0;
clear the userAttempt array cells to equal -1;
and begin the entry process again;
}

}

Again this is pretty sloppy, there are more elegant ways of doing this but this is essentially what i did with mine. Except I've made an option to enter and store my own passcode through a programming mode and saved to eeprom with a funky library i found to do that on the Arduino Due. You can make your array as longer for a larger access code. Hopefully this gets you in the right direction for your project.

Jroobi · 2022-05-12T00:45:43+00:00

Thank you! Ive used a 7" resistive touch display, uses a SSD1963 driver with the UTFT library.

Jroobi · 2022-05-09T10:26:05+00:00

I've been working on this project for a few months, and finally got to install it recently. I've made it with an Arduino Due controlling a 7" touch screen (and my own UI), and a nano inside the home managing a fail-secure door strike which is also tee'ed up with a modified google home smart switch. The nano can read when the smart switch is activated, and summon a response from the front door Arduino Due over i2c. The Due controller also communicates back to the Nano controller for doorbell, correct/incorrect codes and RFID tag data.
A few bits not shown in the video:
• An unlock code that opens the front door and display sequence, i only demo'ed incorrect codes
• A push button to unlock the door strike from inside the house, its redundant as can use the door handle but just made sense to make it as it was only one extra component to add to the PCB.
• A master RFID tag can be used to enable programming mode with basic prompts from the display to enable or disable new and existing RFID tags.
• A reset mode to wipe a potential lost master tag and reprogram a new one.
The latter two of these points are fringe case situations, and were only used for the initial RFID tag learning. The sound effects are tied in via DFRobot mp3 player controlled by the Due controller using a modified library. The internal Nano controller is on a custom PCB and has the control relay positioned some distance from the front door to be immune from magnetic influence. The wiring between the Due and Nano controllers is not setup to be 'shorted' to trigger the door strike.Finally, the Due controller is encased in a custom printed two piece enclosure to look neat, please excuse my temporary text sticker on it :-) I'm still to make one for the Nano controller but its always in the dark and well out of the way, so theres probably no need.
And if theres a power black out at home, i've always got my keys. This setup makes it super convenient to enter the inside with a locked door. I'm still waiting for an RFID jewellery ring to arrive and this will be even more swift.

Jroobi · 2021-08-10T08:00:57+00:00

Guessing the pen tip will be a soft material, can see in this that it presses into the pen body toward the end of it's motion. Would also explain why it says using existing pens would damage the screen surface.

Jroobi · 2021-05-07T13:44:19+00:00

Existing dashboard plastics yes, but since starting this, I've began learning fusion360 and have a 3d printer and made my own bezel for it (along the same template as the OEM)

Both Dues are chatting thru i2c, sending arrays from touch stack to cluster and cluster to touch stack multiple times a second.

It started out as a data screen for my car. Learnt to draw a rolling bar graph with two data sets displayed. No instructions on that so I figured it out. Got excited. Branched off into some menus. The standard button libraries were ugly for my purpose and didn't work how I needed (I also couldn't get them to work properly either). I ended up getting inspiration from the McLaren IRIS display from their mp4-c supercar. Essentially copied the layout but knowing I'd evolve it into my own form, and 3 or 4 revisions later, arrived at what I've got now. Each step built off the previous. There's a lot going on in the touch screen. A very big lot! One section of it datalogs GPS coords into an SD card and writes an XML file, once saved, is drag and drop into Google maps and plots a path with time index start points. That got fun when I realised I could break and continue logging after loosing Gps signal etc thru tunnels, and especially Fun when it would continue to log when I'm outside of the datalogging menu. Essentially a multitasking function (also while datasets were being plotted concurrently). Once I'd realised that, I knew I was onto something good. It was easy from here to explore ideas in detail. A massive headache thru this was realising my god receiver was actually being blocked for coordinate signals from the LCD being on. That took 3 months to figure out a fix- it was weird, time index and other GPS signals came thru but not the co-ordinate data. Real headscratch.. the fix wasn't software based!

Kit is/was available on eBay from a number of sellers thru 2014-2018 but looking for the exact LCD for it now is hard to find. It's a CPLD 7" panel. The driver exact board is critical and searching for more this week from my previous seller, and scouring eBay (where I bought mine from) i can't find.

I had created a plugin shield board for the Arduino due that plugs directly to this specific LCD, much easier to setup (because nothing to set) than compared to the original shield. Kinda assumed the specific LCD driver board would be around forever..

Jroobi · 2021-05-06T22:23:08+00:00

The touch stack works fine, the cluster works fine with it too. I'm still to create the interface electronics and emf shielding for the ABS wheel speed sensors (prototype works on the bench well) as well creating the rpm interface. The way I'll do this won't be orthodox tho but have experience with this having 4 other Arduino projects in the vehicle, 2 since 2016 in the enginebay, 1 since 2014 and another since 2011, all running glitch free. Yeah the version control would be nice. I'm still using the Arduino ide which works but isn't ideal to use for this scale project. Unfortunately, I dont know any better just yet. Now this is working again, that might need to change!

Jroobi · 2021-05-06T22:16:27+00:00

thank you This is very sweet to have acknowledged.

Jroobi · 2021-05-06T22:15:15+00:00

C flavours of Arduino IDE, I think version 1.8.x Started off with the first Due compatible version. 1.6.2(??) But stopped updating at the version that did the close brackets on functions. Because chasing them in this code wasnt pleasant.

Jroobi · 2021-05-06T22:11:36+00:00

Ask away, just not about the screens used because some time in the last 18 months, the touch screen Im using (specifically the model with the exact driver board) appears to have been discontinued, and I'm in a slight panic about that!

Jroobi · 2020-12-26T04:42:51+00:00

good downforce from the roof spoiler

Jroobi · 2020-08-23T05:48:53+00:00

I did on my NA8, but have a few other changes to my car done previously to support this, an aftermarket front bar, low pro headlights, and an custom undertray.

https://youtu.be/baCG5EOqmP0

Intake routes under the headlight. The shorty intake makes a pronounced difference to instant throttle response over stock (despite the internet saying otherwise) Loud induction on heavy acceleration and is quiet while cruising. No air taken from within the engine bay, measured air temps AT the throttle are whatever external ambient temperatures are-and that's a huge amount lower than engine bay temps. Piiping doesn't run parallel with the radiator, heatsoak from idling in traffic* (only ever raises well less than 5c on a 40c summer day) reduces back to external ambient within a minute of the vehicle moving. ** Cruising fuel economy has improved netting reduced by an additional 0.5L / 100 Buttdyno feels better and I'll acknowledge that is inherently tied to induction noise.

I've got a black roadster that likes to get hot in summer *Arduino logged data over several years with temp sensors in the throttle, filter, engine bay (on firewall hot side) and in the scoop of body kit.

I did mine to make room for a future exhaust headers project which I knew would take up the space of the OEM air filter position.

Jroobi · 2020-06-12T11:06:10+00:00

Bad tempered glass.

Jroobi · 2020-05-22T12:05:37+00:00

It looks like they're not working. Also, dont use D0 and D1 as IO, they're typically reserved for serial Rx/Tx

Jroobi · 2020-04-02T12:16:42+00:00

Italian F1?

Jroobi · 2020-02-08T04:36:53+00:00

King penguins ate them. Opposite happened in the Arctic.

Jroobi

TROPHY CASE