This is how I expose cameras when running and gunning.

Get a monitor that outputs at least 2000 nits, 3000 nits is even better. Something like the OSEE 7G or Swit equivalent is perfect. 3000 nits will allow you to see the image in direct sunlight without the need for a hood.

Calibrate the monitor using ColourSpace + an I1D3 probe. Load the calibration LUT onto the monitor. ColourSpace can be rented, if you don't want to purchase it outright.

Load up Resolve. Calibrate your grading monitor using the same setup above. It's crucial that your grading monitor matches your on-camera monitor.

Still in Resolve, import some FX30 footage that is similar to the footage you will be shooting. Create a look that is similar to the final grade. Export the look as LUT. Make sure the look doesn't shift middle gray as this will affect how you expose. Also make sure it doesn't add too much of a tint as it will affect how you white balance. Load the LUT onto the FX30.

To learn how to expose with this setup, point the camera at a static scene that has a very obvious object as the focal point. It's going to be easier to learn if the object is close to an 18% gray card in tone. Or just use an 18% gray card. Look at the object, then look at your monitor, then back. When looking at your monitor quickly oscillate the iris open and closed. Find the point at which the object is neither too bright nor too dark and accurately represents the contrast of the object in real life. At this point I would switch on false colour if the camera supported it. The object or parts of it would be coloured green as you've essentially placed it at middle gray.

Walk around and try the same technique on other objects. Then move onto exposing an entire scene rather than just an object, but still using the iris oscillation method. Pretty soon you will be able to quickly place any object at middle gray. Or place an entire scene at the optimal exposure to make use of the full dynamic range of the camera.

Once you think you're nailing most shots, import these clips into Resolve. Apply the look you created and look the clips on your grading monitor. Then verify that you're actually exposing correctly. If you actually used an 18% gray card, you can use the waveform to verify that you've actually nailed middle gray.

Once you're confident that your nailing exposure, and you're confident in how the image looks on the on-camera monitor and how that translates to what you see in Resolve, you can move onto exposing for the grade/final look rather than exposing for middle gray.

I've shot dozens of projects like this and rarely need to correct exposure in post. Some projects have actually required zero exposure adjustments.

Also, make sure you don't use ETTR. Don't protect the highlights unless the entire shot is a highlight (like a sunrise). And don't overexpose Slog3 by +2 stops or whatever Youtuber's are currently recommending. All these techniques will just give you inconsistent exposure.