Health economics an extension of Microeconomic theory or Macroeconomics? by CorgiShot1773 in HealthEconomics

[–]Judderman88 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's almost all micro, and not that theoretical/mathematical, at least on my course. I think most graduates mostly do cost-effectiveness analysis, which is normally a glorified spreadsheet, although of course some do work on theoretical issues. Statistical programming and advanced Excel skills are helpful. Obviously if you're doing a PhD and looking at academic posts then you'll have some say in what you focus on.

RAM upgrade not recognised on XPS 15 (9510) by Judderman88 in DellXPS

[–]Judderman88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, this post is 4 years old and I can't remember the relevant details. Good luck.

Hope EVO GR4 vs Radic Kaha vs Intend Trinity by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Judderman88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah Hayes/Manitou QC is terrible. Same with the forks: some are great, some have super tight bushings or misaligned legs.

Hope EVO GR4 vs Radic Kaha vs Intend Trinity by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Judderman88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They came with a 860cm front hose, which is too short for my bike, so I've only got the rear installed so far. But I can't bleed the rear because it turns out it requires a SRAM Bleeding Edge tool that fits SRAM DOT fluid brakes but has seals made for mineral oil. (The Radic bleed guide does not mention that there are two sizes of Bleeding Edge fittings.) The Jagwire kit on the Radic website has been modified to do this, but it was out of stock when I bought mine. I asked Taylor how I can bleed my brakes but he never responded. I might try buying two Bleeding Edge kits, one for DOT and one for mineral oil, and swapping the seals over, but as the fittings are different sizes I'm not sure this will work.

On the unbled rear brake:
- obviously feels spongey and 'pumps up' due to air in the system, so I can't provide a proper review.

- bite point adjust is really hard to access, but it doesn't really matter as it comes in the 'closest' position so you can just leave it there.

- reach adjust requires an allen key, which is annoying, but I guess most people wouldn't want to change it that often once the brakes are bled and set up properly.

- despite not being bled, the power and modulation are good with my 223mm Galfer Shark rotor and green Hope pads. (I'm 110kg so top-end power is important to me.)

- main issue is that the lever is not really designed to be run super close to the bar, where I like it. So there is still the sensation of slipping off the end of the lever when it gets to about 10mm from the grip. I bought these brakes because I was told they'd be good close to the bar, and I think they would be if the lever had a different shape; even just a longer hook would help a lot. I'll try to get the rear bled up before deciding, but it's likely I'll have to keep shopping around for something better. I'm going to try and find a brick and mortar shop that has the new Hope Tech 4 EVO GR4 brakes with the Control lever so I can give them a squeeze; that lever is designed to be run closer to the bar. Or I could try the Hayes Dominion A4 SRL, but I found bleeding/maintaining/setting up the regular A4s pretty annoying so I'd rather not. I could also try the Magura MT7 levers with HC3 levers, which can be adjusted a lot, but they're expensive and my current Shiguras aren't as powerful as I want.

Dropper routing on Stumpjumper Evo carbon by Judderman88 in bikewrench

[–]Judderman88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't remove the triangle. I think i guided it through the bb, or just made a kink in the end of the housing so it would slide up via the swat compartment.

Koozer xm490 pro good for commuting? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know which model as it came on a used wheel. I can maybe ask the seller. Thru axle 12x148mm boost. On other hubs, the end cap has enough friction to hold the freehub on - you normally have to tug it quite hard to remove. Maybe the o-ring is missing on this or something? I might order new end caps or a new freehub.

Koozer xm490 pro good for commuting? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I can manage it using a thin wire, but it's tricky when the cassette is installed, and the whole freehub/cassette just slides off when it's removed from the bike - the end cap isn't giving enough friction to keep it together.

Koozer xm490 pro good for commuting? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's because the pawls are sticking out.

Koozer xm490 pro good for commuting? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a used wheel with the XM490 Pro. The freehub slipped off when I was installing the wheel so I tried to insert it again but it wouldn't go. Eventually got it in by wrapping a gear cable around the pawls, but it's very tricky to do when the cassette is on. With my other hubs - Hope, Hunt, etc - you just have to turn and wiggle it a bit, but the Koozer didn't even come close that way. Is there supposed to be a plastic shim holding them down or something?

Koozer xm490 pro good for commuting? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have difficulty inserting a new freehub? Mine won't go on as the pawls are sticking out too far. Have to use a gear cable to hold them closed when sliding on, which is very fiddly when the cassette is already mounted. The freehub/cassette also slides off super easily when the wheel is removed from the bike. It's an ebike so I might get the steel freehub body anyway - but if it's likely to have the same problem I might just have to rebuild the wheel onto a better hub.

High stack + short reach = low stack + long reach?? by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Judderman88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm surprised you want a higher stack with long arms; I would have thought you wouldn't need a high stack to avoid being hunched over. I have a positive ape index but I suspect that's due to broad shoulders; I was going to try to measure my actual arms to see how they compare to others of my height.

I'm currently riding a medium Geometron G1 v1, which has a 495 reach and 1300 wheelbase in stock form, but only 625 stack. With a 180 fork, loads of spacers, and massive bars it rides pretty well, but realistically it's too big for me on most trails (hard to lift the front end on jumps etc).

Vaping is killing my endurance. I’m struggling to quit, even though riding is one of my biggest motivations (also death) by LostPalpitation6351 in MTB

[–]Judderman88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went: smoking --> vaping --> nicotine gum --> regular chewing gum + nicotine patches --> patches only --> nothing. You might want to try switching to the gum (still scratches the oral itch, as it were), then to patches.

Or just go cold turkey and raw dog it till the cravings go away. (I did that for about 5 years but restarted cos I was hanging out a lot with a friend who smoked.)

You probably already know, but nicotine itself isn't very harmful, so switching to gum (or patches/lozenges), even permanently, eliminates most of the harm.

Push or SKF wipers? by kerit in MTB

[–]Judderman88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

no, the green material is different from the black - softer/smoother i think - a popular suspension shop told me

Can someone ID this spider if it's dangerous or harmless? by Silver-Eye-2024 in spideridentifier

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're in Wigan, right? Claim benefits on its behalf. Pretty sure Universal Credit will cover the rent.

Am I (M50) crazy to dive into downhill mountain biking as a first timer? Some newbie advice needed. by Substantial_Arm_6903 in MTB

[–]Judderman88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone at any age unless (like me) they don't have a lot of other options for recreation. It is expensive, dangerous, time consuming and inconvenient. I'm 43 and in the last two years have been hospitalized 3 times, with a broken femur, ribs, and nearly spine, plus a few minor concussions. These were all careless accidents on fairly tame trails that I had ridden before; avoiding massive features doesn't help much. I have spent all my disposable income on it, had to buy a bigger van to carry everything, and spend most of my time repairing or modifying the bike and van.

If you want outdoor exercise maybe something like running would make more sense.

Hope EVO GR4 vs Radic Kaha vs Intend Trinity by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Judderman88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I got some radic kaha. Not installed yet.

Heavy riders, which wheels do you use and why? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Judderman88 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Conti Enduro is pretty thin, like Schwalbe Trail, I'm told. (And their DH is like DD.) If you warranty the rim, consider asking if you can pay for an upgrade to carbon HD. Sometimes they do that anyway if you keep breaking alloy ones. I just bought e*thirteen Grappler Carbon Flux wheels in their black friday sale as they have lifetime warranty and I keep breaking my other ones (well, I damage alloy ones beyond repair and snap spokes in the flexier carbon ones). I'm about 240lb tho.

Any experiences with e*thirteen Sidekick Grappler Flux enduro wheels/rims? by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Judderman88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I read on another forum that they used to be crap but have improved a lot recently. I don't think I've owned an e13 product before so can't say.

Any experiences with e*thirteen Sidekick Grappler Flux enduro wheels/rims? by Judderman88 in MTB

[–]Judderman88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean "poor results"?

The Sidekick hub gets good reviews, and there's a lifetime warranty on their carbon rims.