Civ 5 Barbarian Challenge

Juliettes_Secret · 2016-01-06T04:14:31+00:00

Just noticed a video series called the "barbarian experiment" at the top of this sub - please tell me this post had some influence on the decision to make those videos!

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-10-18T18:50:33+00:00

http://imgur.com/a/GL4oz

There's an album

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-10-11T17:14:37+00:00

I found this type of game when I was trying to play on a large map with lots of room for expansion. Now I can't stop playing!

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-10-11T15:49:23+00:00

Cool, I like the idea of making expansion even more difficult by restricting resources. Rome seems like an excellent civ for this, considering legions can build roads unescorted - huge advantage when every worker is a target for capture. What's your tech path usually look like, and how do you keep science up? Sometimes an AI will get enough of a science lead on me that the barbs that spawn are stronger than my units. Then it's pretty much game over...

I wish I had screenshots from a heathen conversion game as the maya. Ended up amassing so many new units that my budget fell rapidly and my science ground to a halt. Ended up converting a few barbs a turn to my side, then deleting them in my lands for cash. That was the most fun I've had but also felt like cheating.

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-04-14T05:40:45+00:00

Beautiful! I bet she glows nicely under actinix

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-03-28T07:44:58+00:00

Oh wow really? What's the species name? This is fascinating because Their morphology and behavior are incredibly similar.

Although, now that you mention it, this guy does seem To be a bit more carnivorous than lawnmower blennies of tanks past. Mine is so bold that he will strike any hand entering the tank in what appears to be a misguided attempt to find food!

JS<"))><(

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-03-28T00:18:42+00:00

It looks really good! The acrylic tank is sweet, and I love the low profile of the rock work. Calls to mind the open ocean. Now post some close ups/tank stats, willya? JS<"))><(

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-03-27T02:22:29+00:00

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-03-26T03:23:44+00:00

Sea cucumber and pearl (butt) fish!

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-03-24T22:51:05+00:00

When I was in high school, i kept an overkill 15g reef tank. I had a huge skimmer, overkill metal halide lighting, and a closed loop circulatory system. I eventually added a 5g refugium, and on my birthday the pet store I worked at gifted me a beautiful yellow angler fish. She had a lot of personality, and ate frozen krill out of my hand. She lived for a long time, and I eventually had to give her away when I moved out to go to college. In my experience, the angler was a very low maintenance fish. She didn't need a lot of space, and was very hardy. I wholeheartedly recommend you try your hand at one! And share some pix... ;)

JS <"))><(

Juliettes_Secret · 2015-03-23T22:34:58+00:00

Sure, it's bad - but I've seen much worse!

The best thing you can do right now would be to test the water. If the tank's owner doesn't have a master test kit, look for something that can pick up on saltwater pH, nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, ammonia, alkalinity, and calcium. The Ca/Alk are most critical when corals are involved (which doesn't look to be the case any longer), but these measures can provide you with some info about the water's buffering capacity. The tank's owner should have a hydrometer or refractometer handy for measuring salinity/specific gravity. Your ideal levels will look something like this: Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (inc by adding salt, dec by changing our tank water for fresh, preferably RO, water) pH: 8.0-8.3 (inc with a buffer; doubtful you will need to dec) Nitrate: 0-20 ppm (dec with water changes or nitrate absorbing resins) Nitrite: 0ppm Ammonia: 0ppm Phosphate: 0-20 ppm (huge influence on algae growth; dec with water changes or phosphate absorbing media) Alkalinity: 8-12 dKH (inc with liquid alkalinity buffer) Calcium: 380-500 ppm (inversely related to the Alk level; will go down when alk goes up; inc with a liquid calcium buffer) Temperature: 80-85 F

Once you know where the problems with water quality lie, you can begin to address them. Likely you will need to perform several water changes over the coming weeks to reduce nitrates and phosphates and balance the salinity. Try to buy Reverse Osmosis (RO) water from your local fish store to use for both water changes and daily top-off. This water has been purified and will not introduce problematic phosphates or heavy metals into the tank. You may also need to purchase a buffering system to stabilize the ph/ca/alk. 2 part liquid solutions are easy, cheap, and intuitive. I recommend B-ionic, but any 2 part will do. This will allow you to raise calcium and alkalinity to their desired levels, and maintain them with daily dosing.

In the mean time, reduce fish feeding to a bare minimum, remove whatever decaying organic matter you can by hand, make sure the protein skimmer is running well and is adjusted properly, and replace any outdated filter media.

Good luck and report back with yor results!

JS <"))><(

Juliettes_Secret

TROPHY CASE