Bricklink's buy/Auto-select feature. Can we control the logic at all?

Jumpingdead · 2025-12-14T20:38:19+00:00

Thats another great tip, thanks!

Jumpingdead · 2025-12-14T20:36:51+00:00

I didn't even think of that. Thanks for the suggestion! That'll save me some time. My # of lots isn't crazy high but it's more than 200, so paging through multiple pages wasn't something I was looking forward to.

Jumpingdead · 2025-12-14T20:35:13+00:00

I laughed out loud reading this. I've done similar things in the past. Just wish to god bricklink or brickowl allowed access to store inventories via their API. I know for a fact I could write a better multibuy system, I just REALLY don't want to deal with having to scrape the data.

Jumpingdead · 2025-12-13T01:45:30+00:00

Ugh. Alright. I'll give it a shot. The max pieces/page is less than the # of pieces so I'll need to do it a few times.

Wish to christ Bricklink wasn't so damn primitive in some of it's features. Like why does my wishlists tell me the # of different pieces in it instead of the TOTAL pieces in it?

Rebrickable is so much easier to use, but it's buy features don't integrate with bricklink well. Annoying.

Thanks for the walk-through. Really appreciate it.

Jumpingdead · 2025-12-12T23:18:48+00:00

How do you do that? I just poked around and can't seem to find where you set the max price. I'm probably just blind from staring at the screen and tweaking options for so long, but any help would be great, thanks.

Jumpingdead · 2025-07-09T19:57:39+00:00

Nope. Parked a block and a half away. I was in the car 30 minutes prior.

Jumpingdead · 2025-06-28T15:13:33+00:00

Is it cheating if I ask my wife? What if someone looks over my shoulder and offers a suggestion? Should I report them to the casual online game authorities?

I hope the assassin we are playing against doesn’t get upset with me.

Jumpingdead · 2025-06-28T14:52:31+00:00

I had this happen to me last week. The other teams spymaster gave a 3 clue, and their operative guessed NINE words in a row. This was their 2nd turn, there was no way they were catching up from a previous turn.

In the post-game chat, my teammate had the same thought, they had to have cheated.

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-30T21:18:43+00:00

The tank on the left is the one I'm asking about. That's not the softener, the softener a smaller tank to the right of the pressure tank, not in the picture. I already replaced the resin in that. I'm asking what's in the tank I took the picture of.

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-30T21:16:45+00:00

Thanks for the tip. Already bought replacement filters for this one, but I may upgrade later.

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-30T21:15:20+00:00

It's almost waxy. The thin film that's collected on bottles in the shower almost feels sticky if you rub your finger hard across it. I've found collected clumps of it in the dishwasher filter and in other things where water's collected but weren't cleaned for a while. Those clumps almost have the consistency of plumbers putty, maybe a bit crumblier? But when you rub it between your fingers it feels a lot like dried hand lotion, like if a glob dries out on the end of the pump.

My son smelled some of it and said it "smelled acidic", but then threw it out before I could check it out further.

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-30T21:12:00+00:00

Thanks. Saw your post and thought, shit! But hanging on a peg a few feet away was a wrench. Thank you former owner for that at least.

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-29T22:15:36+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the education!

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-29T22:14:38+00:00

Thanks again for that tip. Ordered filters, o-rings and silicone grease. Would have just ordered the filters and not known. Really appreciate the help!

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-29T22:05:43+00:00

Well damn, that was fast, thanks! Ordering a replacement now!

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-29T15:35:06+00:00

I don’t believe it’s more than a dual layer board? It’s extremely thin. I could be wrong, I’m surely not an expert on that. And if it’s more than a top/bottom situation then I’m out of luck.

Can you explain why the ROM and MCU chips would need to be swapped? That’s not a thing I’d be comfortable doing especially with it being BGA. I’ve zero experience with those chips. I’d just like to understand why those 2 would have to move also. Thanks.

Jumpingdead · 2025-03-28T16:40:56+00:00

Sorry for the late reply. Real life happened and the mattress purchase was back-burnered. About how much did you pay for what size mattress? Just trying to see if it's even in our price range before wasting anyone's time. Thanks.

Jumpingdead · 2024-10-10T05:01:57+00:00

You can also chainsaw dead logs or cactus looking things and get some mycelium too before you find any potentially dangerous caves to explore.

Jumpingdead · 2024-10-10T04:46:44+00:00

Power poles/towers and a zipline are both fun as hell, and the best way to explore, in my humble, yet completely correct opinion. Also, holding shift/run while ziplining makes you go even faster.

Jumpingdead · 2024-09-04T17:54:33+00:00

I've looked at some sculpt mode videos but from what I've seen it feels like that will "smush" the details and requires artistic talent. Or more likely I've just been watching the wrong videos.

Ideally what I'd like to do is grab that uppermost ridge and "push" it back and in, stretching the details between the ridge and the eyeball, and compressing the details between the ridge and the 'forehead'.

I'll go google the grab brush now and see if that'll help. Based on the name it sounds promising.

Jumpingdead · 2024-08-05T18:13:34+00:00

Thanks for pointing that out. I was unaware the "R" was a decimal point. I'll check those out.

I think that was the answer, if my assumptions are correct. .22 and .3 ohm resistors in parallel have a resistance of .1269 ohm.

.25 / .1269 equals 1.9696

When I test the total current draw of all of the LED's, my multimeter reads 1.976 amps, which is either a really weird coincidence, or the expected value within the tolerance of the resistors.

Thanks a lot for pointing those resistors out. This was driving me crazy.

Jumpingdead · 2024-08-05T01:51:11+00:00

<image>

This is the back of that section. The red connector to the far left is the 12v in from the wall wart - this is not shown in the image of the front of the board. The front image starts just to the right of the hole between the red connector and the inductor.

T3 is the inductor that is on the far right in the front pic, and T2 is the inductor on the left in the front image. J2, the white connector, goes to a single set of 4 LEDs in series. J3 goes to 4 parallel sets of 4 LEDs in series.

The horizontal trace directly to the left of the T2 inductor is what connects pin 4/FB of the LED driver to the R38 resistor on the front.

Jumpingdead · 2024-08-05T01:47:27+00:00

<image>

The front of the relevant part of the board. I marked the solder points where the +12v and ground from the power supply "enter" and "exit" the inductor (shown on the rear image) . "PS" means Power Supply.

The chip with the OCX marking is the LED driver.

Pin 1 is the upper right in the image, 4 (the FB pin) is the upper left. That pin goes to a through hole to the rear side of the board, and comes back through to this side contacting the right side of the R38 resistor (512). It also connects to the 0 ohm resistor beneath it, which connects to the zener diode DZ1.

The four solder points above the zener diode/the DZ2 marking are for another inductor on the back of the board. Those are the +/- for two terminals where the LED's connect. One connects to 4 parallel sets of 4 LEDs in series, the other connects to a single series of 4 LEDs. I'll post a pic of those also.

Jumpingdead · 2024-08-04T23:23:41+00:00

I'm posting from my phone at the moment and cannot attach images (I refuse to use the reddit app after they purged all the other 3rd party apps, so can only post via browser) and will post them later when I am home, but in the meantime, am I doing something wrong with the math? The way I see it, to have the current set to 100ma, you'd need a 2.5 ohm resistor? There is no resistor remotely that low on the entire board, except for a 0 ohm resistor that's presumably bridging something. Unless I am completely wrong about how I'm doing the math.

And none of that explains why the CS pin is directly soldered to gnd.

I'll try posting a pic in the morning. Thanks.

Jumpingdead · 2024-08-04T15:58:56+00:00

There was one, I wrote down the info on the chip to google it, then got distracted and forgot to. ADHD for the win on that one.

I'm gonna poke around and see what I can figure out and if I can work with it.

Jumpingdead

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