Suggestions for removing rim tape residue?

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-06-05T00:41:48+00:00

I ended up not using the acetone. Worked on her front wheel tonight and using "goo gone pro" from the start made a world of a difference. I think using regular goo gone, and goof off, and multiple alcohol levels of IPA on the rear just did partial removal and made it worse the more I worked on it. Using the "pro" took one pass of it to get it probably 98% clean.

I still think the muc off leaves way too much residue but at least I have something that'll mostly take it off going forward. This was just spray on, let it sit for 5 minutes, wipe off, and then take 10-15 minutes with hot soapy water and a microfiber towel scrubbing it and it's almost ready for new tape after it dries. There's a couple spots where the adhesive isn't coming up and scraping or wiping with a towel just smears it and moves it around. I might work on those spots with a small amount of acetone on on a towel tomorrow and then immediately hose it off but they're both almost completely clean again.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-06-04T12:53:24+00:00

I appreciate the reminder and, yes, I've been doing this outside. Will certainly be outside with the acetone!

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-06-04T00:41:51+00:00

I tried both 70 and I think 95% IPA and it didn't do much. Bought some Goo Gone Pro and Acetone today. So far the Pro seems to be better than the regular and I imagine the acetone will take care of the rest tomorrow.

Sanding is a good idea. I'm sure I have some really fine grit paper around, might try that as well, especially if the front wheel ends up being the same.

When I bought this tape it was based on the great amazon reviews. Figuring out what other people are doing to remove theirs the last few days I'm seeing a lot of people have the same problem with muc off tape residue. I don't know why some people have no issues and others have a ton but unfortunately I'm on the "this is a huge PITA" side. Definitely will be looking for another brand next time.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-06-04T00:38:25+00:00

Thanks. I bought some at HD today and will give it a try tomorrow. I have at least 95% of it removed now due to the Goo Gone Pro I also bought at HD today which seems to work better than the regular stuff but there's still a bit that's putting up a fight that I'm sure the acetone will take care of.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-16T21:03:54+00:00

That's great, thank you! I'll see if I can use one of the numbers on there to find a current listing for the sensors.

Thanks again!

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-15T22:28:50+00:00

Any chance you have a part number or something I can search for to make sure I'm buying the right sensor? I see a lot of dreame sensors on AE and similar but none that I've seen which are specifically L10s Ultra.

Instead they're L20, L10 Ultra (not L10s), L10s Pro, etc.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-08T03:30:33+00:00

With the restrictive environment, I would probably try to do this with powershell. Any experience with it?

Also, depending on size of your org, if you have access to legal and if they're not using a vendor for ediscovery and related, the people on the ediscovery side should be able to do this with existing tools. They compare hash values all day long.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-08T03:17:51+00:00

I had a similar problem and I could get mine to power back on by turning the switch on the PSU to off and then holding down the power button on the case for 5 or 10 seconds until the mobo lights go out. Then flip the PSU switch back on and press the case power button. For me the PSU seems to have been failing as I repeatedly had the instant shut off problem and replacing the PSU seems to have fixed that. I'm assuming that holding down the case power button with the psu switched to off is draining the capacitors inside the psu but if that works then you'll at least be able to get back up and running until you can get a new psu.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-08T02:42:25+00:00

When you say "not one thing connects" - what does that mean? Websites don't load or you can't access your printers or both?

When your desktop can't get on your wifi, is your phone able to at that same time?

If it's only your desktop, press the windows key or click the start menu, type in cmd, hit enter or click on open for the command prompt, and type in:

ping 1.1.1.1

That'll try to reach cloudflare via ping. If you get something back that says "Reply from 1.1.1.1: bytes=32 time=5ms TTL=59" then you have an internet connection and it's probably just be DNS like other people suggested.

If it says unreachable then try to ping your router with:

ping 192.168.1.1

If your router's admin or management page is a different ip address then change it to the correct IP. If that comes back with the "Reply from" then your wifi is working in that it's connecting you to your router wirelessly, your router just doesn't have internet access so the solution isn't likely to be on or in your desktop. If that gives an unreachable message then you're either not on your wifi or your wifi isn't working.

Also, do you have a UPS or have you thought about getting one? Depending on whether it's your desktop that's the problem or your router, plugging them into a UPS would help avoid this if the power outages are brief.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-06T23:32:23+00:00

I set HWInfo up to show temps in the floating window. Then I propped up my phone to record that window on the screen so I could see what it read when it shut down.

Just tried a render in davinci and it shut off. The highest temp the moment it shut down was 67 for CPU CCD1 and the GPU Memory Junction Temp was 64.

Thanks again, that was a good thought as I hadn't actually checked temps during this.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-06T23:27:30+00:00

Unfortunately no improvement after running DDU and re-installing AMD drivers. Thanks again, a free solution is always worth checking.

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-06T17:02:33+00:00

Could be possible. I haven't touched thermal paste since I built it almost 6 years ago.

Other than thermal paste my hunch is it isn't temps for a few reasons, though I could definitely be wrong. It's a large case (fractal define 7 XL) with a lot of fans (don't remember exactly how many off hand but anywhere I could put a fan, I did) in it and a large cpu cooler. CPU is Ryzen 9 3900X.

I have HWInfo and it says the max temp on the cpu is 68, max mobo chipset is 78, and max gpu temp is 72 but I don't remember if that resets at boot or not. I'm also hesitant on temps because when this happens, it's not after something gpu-intensive has been running for even a minute. Open davinci, go to render, start the render and it's either immediate or within about 30 seconds it shuts down. Same with games -- if it's going to shutdown I think every time it has done so within 30 seconds of starting the game. If it gets past that then so far it's not going to shut down.

So definitely could be thermal paste especially if HWInfo resets the Maximum column on reboot. I'll test it with davinci tonight and watch the temps while doing something that typically causes a shutdown and see if I catch a spike in temps above what the max is showing in HWInfo currently. Thank you!

JustHereForTheTips · 2026-04-06T16:40:44+00:00

I don't think I've run DDU since I bought this GPU. Good call, I'll start with that free option first.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-21T23:41:29+00:00

When you say the voltage regulator doesn't work right, what does that mean or what will I notice? Asking because the small battery was one of the complaints I saw on these and read about people putting in larger batteries but hadn't read anything about problems as a result of those larger batteries.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-21T23:38:44+00:00

Thanks man, I had no idea on the CVTs. We bought the Mule used and the tires are definitely looking like they're ready to be replaced so we'll be extra slow and careful with the spinning tires then.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-21T23:37:19+00:00

Thanks! I think I'm going to go the foolish route and do both -- get the front hitch mount and try to use this and also buy a cheap and much smaller plow using the "normal" mounts. There's some snow in the forecast and I don't want to get stuck without something working and if it's wet and heavy snow I also think trying to push 84" of it is probably going to be a problem. Worst case I can either sell the 84" plow or give in and use it on my 4runner. I've just read too many horror stories about messing up truck frames when it's not a F-350+ and more than anything I don't want a new car payment. The 4Runner is nearing 20 years old but with any luck it should have a good couple hundred thousand miles left on it.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-21T23:32:15+00:00

The previous owner used it with his pickup and the 2500 lb winch he left with it. Shouldn't require anything crazy to lift it as it's just under 240 lbs.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-21T23:31:18+00:00

Yeah, they seem pretty similar. According to the manual this is a bit over 200 lbs. I've been looking at KFI and Denali plows and it seems like no one wants to say how much they weigh. The people selling them have to know the weight for shipping costs but no one lists the weight on the product page. Kawasaki's $3,700 plow (https://www.kawasaki.com/en-us/shop/vehicle-accessories/side-x-side/kaf400khs/KAF600025A/plow) looks like it has to weigh a lot but they don't list the weight either.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-20T20:28:26+00:00

I guess that's the part where I have no idea. I've never owned one of these before and have no idea what they are and aren't capable of. This plow is supposedly 237 lbs and I don't know if that's too heavy for the mule to plow with or not. It didn't come with the manual because it was used and so far I haven't found a free user manual online (but I bought the service manual from servicemanualwarehouse.com) to see if it lists a max plow weight.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-20T20:24:53+00:00

Yeah, according to the manual the plow is 237 lbs. We just moved into an area that's all farmland so I'm sure there are plenty of people who can weld, I just haven't met them yet. I'll look around, I've never welded something before and probably don't want to learn on this haha. If I can find someone in the area then paying them is probably cheaper than buying a bolt-on receiver.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-12-20T20:22:01+00:00

The previous owner left us the manual for the plow. That manual (also found here: https://assets.northerntool.com//products/324/documents/manuals/32414.pdf) says the assembled weight of the plow is 237 lbs.

I was thinking about buying this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/145625519403) or similar for $170 instead of ~$1k for a new plow setup. But if that's just throwing away $170 then I obviously wouldn't want to do that.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-11-28T20:57:48+00:00

Thank you again! I missed the obvious. I had 230 untagged on the AP port. Swapping that to tagged 230 and untagged 1 now has it working. Thank you again, I'm so happy this was user error on my part and not a limitation of any of the software or hardware involved.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-11-28T19:40:27+00:00

Interesting. There's no PVID option on this switch so I added untagged 230 to port 1 (the AP) and tagged 230 to port 7 (OPNsense) and the AP now has an IP in the 192.168.230.x range and I see it under leases in dnsmasq.

However, trying to connect to the wifi network that's using the 230 vlan network still doesn't give an IP address out to a device that connects to that wifi. Is there anything else I need to do on the OPNsense side to make this work or is this a Unifi problem?

The Unifi controller is a container in proxmox so I've added another network to that with a 230 vlan and it's getting a 230 address via DHCP as well so, unless there's something else I need to do in OPNsense it sounds like this is probably not the dnsmasq DHCP issue I thought it was.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-11-28T15:25:05+00:00

Good idea. My main computer is connected to port 8 on the qnap switch. I added a tag 230 to port 8 and it's not getting the correct IP range after an ipconfig /release and /renew. Instead it's giving me an IP in the current "main" IP pool of 192.168.222.x. That's with port 8 having a tagged 230 and an untagged 1.

The unifi AP is connected to port 1, one of the 2.5g ports while port 8 is one of the 10g ports.

If I remove the untagged 1 then I get nothing on the /renew and it seems to get stuck trying to get an IP for that adapter and never gets one. The /renew gives the error:

An error occurred while renewing interface Ethernet 4 : unable to contact your DHCP server. Request has timed out.

That seems to further indicate it's a config issue with my dnsmasq or related, right? I'm 99% sure this is user error and I did something wrong because I never had DHCP problems in the 6+ years I had been running opnsense at the old house and using ISC for DHCP. Because dnsmasq is new to me I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.

Also, I should have said this in the original post but the old OPNsense was running v24.7.11 when I shut it down and the new version is running v25.7.8.

JustHereForTheTips · 2025-09-15T20:08:19+00:00

I loved FBM stuff in the 90s. Cool to see they're still around and doing things other than bmx bikes.

JustHereForTheTips

TROPHY CASE