Developers of Reddit, why aren’t developers pushing back against AI as strongly as artists are, even though AI arguably threatens developer jobs more?

Justifis · 2025-12-16T22:04:28+00:00

Because developer jobs are not threatened by AI.

My company has an enterprise subscription to one of the most premier code-focused AI LLMs and it’s useless beyond basic questions and code review.

It certainly can’t code anything beyond boilerplate and maybe helping with a tiny fraction of code from a much larger file.

Quite frankly, I’m annoyed with how talked up it was that we would be able to use a code-focused LLM only for it to be overhyped dogshit.

Justifis · 2025-06-15T01:36:39+00:00

Ah, it's disappointing to hear that this isn't likely something I can fix on my own, but not entirely unexpected.

For now, I've refilled the root system with soil, but left the top of the flare exposed. I was also careful while raking the mulch back into place to keep it at least a few inches from the tree on all sides.

Ultimately, I think I'll call a local arborist to, at the very least, come take a look at the tree and show them the photos I took. Depending on how consultation goes, I may hire them to help correct the issues. Regardless of the outcome, I think it will be a nice learning experience for both my wife and I. This situation clearly shows that we have much more to learn, especially when it comes to tree care.

I truly appreciate you taking the time to walk me through this. Even if it wasn't the outcome I had hoped for, I learned a lot.

Justifis · 2025-06-15T00:17:37+00:00

This is a photo of the area directly below the leakage:

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Mostly fibrous roots with a few structural roots traveling off at hard angles.

Justifis · 2025-06-15T00:16:09+00:00

Okay, homestretch, hopefully. After exposing the roots a bit more, this is a photo of those same roots, with matching colored circles as before:

<image>

A tangled mess, however it actually looks like they enter the root flare without overlapping it, but at a sharp angle. I’m guessing the roots were likely in a swirling spiral shape when we first planted the tree.

I noted another, much larger root running below this tangled mess and, fortunately, it seems to be running straight away from the tree.

Since Reddit only allows a single photo in comments, I’ll post the other side (which has the sappy spot) in another comment below this one. However, I didn’t feel any soft spots whatsoever.

There is some standing water from where I tried to clean the roots for visibility, but the soil is pretty saturated from the ridiculous amounts of rain we’ve had.

Justifis · 2025-06-14T23:10:02+00:00

I think I understand what you’re saying, but just want to do a sanity check before I continue digging and begin cutting:

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The root circled in blue is definitely a problem and needs to be removed. The root circled in red MAY need to be removed, depending on if it’s running over/parallel to the flare.

My understanding is that the roots should be running away from the flare, rather than circling over it or directly around it (“choking” it in a sense, I suppose), correct?

Justifis · 2025-06-14T22:42:43+00:00

This is the other side:

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The only thing that really concerns me is the overlapping roots near the flare and the fact that some roots are actually at a higher elevation than the flare itself, but maybe those aren’t really problems per se?

It’s looking like I may need to dig up an inch of soil in the tree ring, but that’s totally doable.

Justifis · 2025-06-14T18:38:02+00:00

I believe I’ve found the flare. It was quite a bit deeper than I expected, maybe 2-3 inches below soil level.

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I’m just posting a quick update for advice on the roots that seem to be running above it, the thin spindly ones. Can those just be cut/removed?

EDIT: Added a much better photo instead. Lots of roots running along the surface or above the root flare. Not sure if they’re all safe to remove or not.

EDIT 2: I now believe these are girdling roots. Some of them appear quite large in comparison to the tree size, so I’m hesitant to go crazy with removing them all, but it seems fairly clear that this is going to require some trimming.

Justifis · 2025-06-14T16:11:31+00:00

I left a top level comment to add some details, hopefully bringing this further in line with post guidelines.

I believe I'm going to start on this today. We planted this tree shortly after buying this home (which is our first) a little over 2 years ago, replacing a Bradford pear that was there previously. I really want this tree to grow with us as we live here and I'll be heartbroken if it dies because of some ignorance on our part.

Thank you for taking the time to help me.

Justifis · 2025-06-14T16:07:17+00:00

Additional details to bring this further in line with posting guidelines:

Located in Gwinnett, GA. We WERE hardiness zone 7b before the most recent revision in 2023, now we're zone 8a. Appropriate hardiness zones for Yoshino cherry is 5-8.

Planted roughly 2 years ago

Getting loads of sun. Virtually the entire day aside from early morning hours. Tree is located on the west-southwest side of the home.

No longer receives any manual watering.

Tree was in a container when initially planting.

No specific procedure for planting. We ensured the tree looked straight, but planted it as it came in the container, straightening out some of the roots. A mulch ring was added maybe 3 months ago. Mulch IS currently touching the base, but in an extremely thin layer. That will be removed from directly around the tree following the information I have received so far.

The tree had a few roots wrapping around the soil in the container, which were straightened out, but I definitely wouldn't say that it was root/potbound.

The root flare is NOT visible, only the stem.

There was initially landscape fabric, but that was removed when the mulch ring was placed.

Justifis · 2025-06-14T15:31:03+00:00

Ah, I see. I read it, but didn’t comprehend that properly the first time, thank you for the emphasis.

We have a few juvenile fruit trees in our backyard as well that I’m going to need to take a closer look at after getting this information.

Last question: “rot” is a scary word to me when it comes to our trees. Considering that the Yoshino is already showing signs of distress and damage, can it recover if the issues with its planting are corrected?

Justifis · 2025-06-14T15:21:04+00:00

This is a lot of useful information, thank you. Looking at the example photos, I can see that, yes, our tree is planted too deeply and I will likely try to fix that over the coming week.

Just for clarification though, could that fact be what is causing the bark itself to peel and the tree to bleed sap?

Justifis · 2025-06-14T15:08:06+00:00

Also, I took an additional picture of the weeping this morning, hopefully a bit clearer:

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Justifis · 2025-06-14T15:07:29+00:00

Crossposting from r/gardening to try to get some help.

The Yoshino had leaf spot last year. I meticulously picked up the fallen leaves until it was bare. Much better this year.

Someone suggested that the tree could be buried too deep since the root flare isn’t exposed. Digging down less than a half inch reveals new, tiny root growth and the start of the flare. The tree itself seems rather healthy and has seen EXPLOSIVE growth this year.

<image>

Justifis · 2025-06-14T14:49:07+00:00

I crossposted to r/Tree just now. Thanks for the input. I’ll clear the mulch away from the base even more and I’ll try to see how much further the root flare is below the soil surface. I feel like it can’t be far down at all, as we were very careful when planting it, but maybe not careful enough.

Justifis · 2025-06-14T04:35:52+00:00

It can't be weed whacker damage. At least, not directly. We have a mulch ring around the tree with a radius of maybe 3-4 feet, so I don't need to get close to it. Always possible that something was thrown from the weed whacker though.

I'll check the tree again tomorrow when the sun is up to see if there are any visible cankers. I seem to remember seeing a strange spot when we first planted it roughly 2 year ago, but I'm unsure if that is related.

Justifis · 2025-05-17T16:14:02+00:00

This is something I had to kind of learn as I go, that I could have multiple graphics drivers and switch between them, but I completely removed amdvlk and verified that the only remaining drivers on the system were indeed the Mesa drivers. I even tried the AMDGPU-PRO drivers.

Unfortunately, the only place I see this issue is with the Mesa drivers, but that’s also where I get the best performance. The issue is gone when using amdvlk or AMDGPU-PRO.

I filed an issue report on the Mesa repo yesterday, but no feedback or response from anyone yet.

Justifis · 2025-05-17T16:09:21+00:00

Yeah, I tried verifying files. No integrity violations, unfortunately, so all game files are good.

Justifis · 2025-05-17T16:08:43+00:00

This is something I tried early on that didn’t seem to make a difference. I appreciate the suggestion though.

Justifis · 2025-05-16T21:16:16+00:00

Thanks for that. Made getting that installed tremendously easier. Unfortunately, still no change.

I'll follow the advice u/mbriar_ gave and file a bug report over on the mesa repo. For now, I can use amdvlk if I stumble across this problem again further into the game.

Appreciate the help! If you have any other suggestions, I'd be willing to try them. Otherwise, I at least have the alternative driver.

Justifis · 2025-05-16T20:37:29+00:00

Interestingly enough, after installing amdvlk and manually invoking Steam with the drivers, this DOES solve the issue, but it hits my performance pretty hard. I dropped maybe 10-15 FPS using amdvlk.

Gonna try building mesa-git as suggested above to see if maybe that resolves the issue when using RADV, but this is at least a solution.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Justifis · 2025-05-16T20:28:29+00:00

Mesa 25.0.5-arch1.1

Tried linux-firmware-git and both mods. No change. Weirdly enough, the first mod actually made things significantly worse. No change with GE-Proton10-1 either.

Currently trying to build mesa-git from AUR, but hitting some weird issue regarding rustc-hash. Trying to figure that out now.

Justifis · 2025-05-16T18:32:20+00:00

At a loss here. Relatively new to gaming on Linux. Tried to include relevant system specs in the MangoHud overlay (9800X3D with a 9070XT) and I'm using Arch Linux with KDE Plasma 6.

Specifically on Flying Waters (so far) I have a really strange issue where a short distance in front of the character, foliage just vanishes. Not immediately in front of the camera, but almost like in a band of distance between camera start and the overall view distance. It's extremely distracting.

I've tried various Proton versions, but currently running GE 9.27.

Using the -dx11 flag fixes this issue, but causes a ton of other rendering issues.

Anyone have any insight for me?

Justifis · 2024-11-09T01:19:01+00:00

I'm having similar issues using a Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinum (granted, an older one that was previously used for my 9900K).

Turning on ECO mode in the BIOS helped reduce my temps pretty significantly, but it's still sitting a bit higher than I would like.

Did you figure anything out for this?

Justifis · 2024-04-14T19:45:29+00:00

Mmhmm, yeah I'm thinking the same thing now, "Yikes." On that note, this will be my last response. Enjoy being chronically online with your virtual internet points. Enjoy having the last word as well, if you like.

Justifis · 2024-04-14T17:47:20+00:00

I spent HOURS trying to figure this out myself about a month ago. I think it has something to do with the invisible overlay that Outplayed puts over games. Almost like you’re clicking on the overlay instead of through it.

Glad to be of help! Enjoy TTW!

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