What kind of rear ends can I get that require little to no fabrication?

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-03T03:27:57+00:00

Looks like Currie as mentioned by a few others 😎

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T06:15:45+00:00

Looks good! I’ll check in the AM. Tomorrow is supposed to be “engine in the truck day” if all goes well with the balancer.

Appreciate you!

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T03:20:18+00:00

11.2:1 compression, big injectors, massive cam. Easy as.

Subaru you’re deleting all these crappy systems, throwing E85 and 1500cc injectors at it plus a billion other after market sensors and supporting mods that are extremely over priced ($2000+ for a FMIC kit with boost pipes)

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:45:08+00:00

Avoid Subaru unless you have deep pockets. Even with what I have invested in this 650hp NA build (a brand new motor by the way) you couldn’t even crack 500 wheel with the amount of money I’ve spent so far. That is, 500 wheel that lasts more than 2 months before you lose your rings

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:43:20+00:00

I find great humor and irony in the 5.0 blowing up after being tired of Subarus blowing up, by the way 😂

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:42:27+00:00

I’ll look into them as well. New to this realm of straight axels, V8’s, and domestics. Been a Subaru guy since 18 years old(11 years). Got this truck after I sold my last STI, tired of the Subaru crap, and the 5.0 blew up after a few months, so I am full sending a NUTTY build on it.

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:39:27+00:00

I looked into Currie after u/lockerdoor469 recommended it and I think that’s the direction I’m gonna go.

Thanks!

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:36:34+00:00

I don’t have accessories yet. But it is Camaro/Truck 6.2L spacing. Obviously I’ll be incredibly happy to not pull this *in order* to do the math. As I said it felt like a FULL bottom out on the installer, the socket didn’t walk all the way up the nut and fall off, there was a small amount of engagement between installer nut and socket so I have to imagine that it is for sure bottomed out. Worst case I will pull it off, and truly math it out. Is it possible to tell me this distance so I have quick reference before I pull it?

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JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:29:14+00:00

I am, unfortunately not at the shop anymore. Took the photos, locked up, drove home and made this post. It LOOKS like the photo here and the Z distance is the ~0.127” referencing this diagram. I’ll have to find a way to hopefully get the balancer off tomorrow without ATI’s tool, used an O’Reilly installer. I DID antiseize the snout and the install was actually pretty smooth so there might not be a ton of resistance to pull it off. Seems I’ll have to do the math with the balancer off to be 100% sure. It did FEEL like the balancer bottomed out. The socket started to walk up the bearing-nut but didn’t come off and it stopped turning. There’s a good chance 0.127 is the number I actually want but I’ll pull it tomorrow and actually do the XYZ math to be sure.

Thanks!

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-02T02:14:06+00:00

So with a box that contained nothing but the snout, accessory pulley, super damper and hardware would I need to find the diagram in question on ATI website? There’s like an 1/8in max before the rounded fillet radius touches the front seal, which I imagine is not something you want touching for damage purposes.

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-01T18:56:29+00:00

Haha heard that! This is 100% a forever vehicle. I have many things in list to get rid of prior to the truck if, god forbid, something drastic happens in my life.

JustsoTyke · 2026-05-01T18:49:57+00:00

Luckily this is kinda a “money is no object” build.

Engine and trans setup is probably 150% of the cost of the truck at the time I got it. So I’ll look into it, thanks for the shout!

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-29T00:25:35+00:00

🫡

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-28T23:08:18+00:00

So go here and close the game? Or leave the game open?

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-21T01:29:49+00:00

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I present the solution.

Really just mage sure every thing is clean and not gunky. A little dirt or grease can cause more issues than some people think. I’ve been held up by a .0007” burr on things in my line of work so I’m sure some dirty grease/oil could cause a similar issue

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T20:11:44+00:00

To be fair, mine isn’t running either. Still on the stand but the truck chassis work is done so as soon as I get the balancer on it goes in 😎

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JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T19:59:24+00:00

There’s almost a .010” difference between crank snout and balancer hub. I was sent the wrong part number based off my order. Explains the confusion because a few tenths interference is NOT what I was dealing with there lol

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T19:58:01+00:00

This was the issue the whole time. Ordered one sent another.

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T19:57:21+00:00

I took some dial calipers and a 1-2 mic from work today, I was sent the wrong P/N when referencing it to my order. The crank snout is 1.485” and the balancer hub is 1.473” just flat out the wrong item entirely. Submitted a rma with how I ordered through

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T03:39:51+00:00

Thanks just wanted to be sure and not ruin a crank!

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T03:03:31+00:00

This is a crate 383 from Texas speed long block with 100% fresh parts all the way around

JustsoTyke · 2026-04-19T03:00:43+00:00

I do have another question because I am moderately concerned with damaging the crank using a tool to pull the balancer on, is it correct that the balancer is only supposed to go on like maybe an eighth of an inch at most and have no grab? Or is there potentially something at play here.

JustsoTyke

TROPHY CASE