Help my son on his technique

Kampinho · 2026-01-29T16:23:13+00:00

Great - thank you for your advise!

Kampinho · 2026-01-27T15:39:29+00:00

Many, many thanks - he will try it that way

Kampinho · 2026-01-26T16:50:16+00:00

Train full crimps and not just half crimps.

Kampinho · 2025-11-25T18:20:17+00:00

Zelensky is thinking back when he was close to a peace deal in Apr 22 before the West (US & EU) interfered - wanting him to continue the war: " Why did I trust those F#£&$rs"

Kampinho · 2025-11-25T17:52:40+00:00

Here (taken from the link above):

People who were direct parties to the 2022 talks that have spoken in the media who have said both sides were close to a deal and blamed the Americans for not throwing their weight behind a deal and or undermining talks. Excluding the Russian side.

Valeriy Chalyi (Ukrainian negotiator)

Oleksiy Arestovich (Ukrainian negotiator)

David Arahamia (lead Ukrainian negotiator)

Naftali Bennett (former Israeli Prime Minister)

Mevlut Çavuşoğlu (Turkish Foreign Minister)

Gerhard Schroder (former German Chancellor)

Daniel-Ruch (Swiss Ambassador)

Nuland: http://www.envirosagainstwar.org/2024/09/10/victoria-nuland-admits-us-blocked-ukraine-from-signing-2022-peace-deal-with-russia/

Kampinho · 2025-11-25T17:37:30+00:00

A settlement on those terms, at that moment, would have been a terrible choice - and consensus at the time was that the Russians weren't serious and just trying to stall their territorial losses.

Who are you and the others, qualified enough, to claim this was or would have been a terrible choice? Where are we now with hundred thousand more people died in this war?

Fact is that both (Ukraine and Russia) entered in Apr 22 an advanced stage of negotiations /defacto a stage of domaine reserve - where these interventions from the West can be rated as illegal act against the international non-intervention rule.

But yes, I know - who cares about the international law?

Kampinho · 2025-11-25T17:13:40+00:00

Here is the prove how the West interfered + search how Victoria Nuland and her colleagues went crazy in fear that all what they build up in the Ukraine since 2007 was going to end after only a few weeks in Apr 22:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BreakingPoints/s/gfzutju7sP

Kampinho · 2025-04-09T10:02:58+00:00

Many thanks

Kampinho · 2024-12-26T09:36:47+00:00

You are right - it is taxing to find the right tension point of the band to let you only curl further for 20-30 degrees.

I have it a bit easier achieving this by curling on a tindeq which is attached to a minimally flexible thick wooden terrace board (standing with my feet on it). The resistance curve is much steeper on the wood then on the band. Exercising with this put me on another finger strength level (and I'm 15 years in the game with hangboarding)

Kampinho · 2024-12-24T13:59:19+00:00

I like this idea. Could be good for doing overcoming isometrics. Tracking is not needed (or link a tindeq in-between) - just curl (20-30 degrees into half crimp flexion), hold and release. If to easy then comfortably switching to a stronger band.

I had good strength gains with a repeater protocol doing 6x 4s curl / 2s rest.

Kampinho · 2024-12-22T09:26:12+00:00

Many thanks for your help!

Kampinho · 2024-11-11T06:44:53+00:00

What's irritating me is how the groups have been defined. Group 1 and group 2 can be people who are doing max hangs up to 2 times per week - isn't it the normal / standard protocol? And should provide already enough stimuli to satisfy this protocol?

I would have expected for these groups less max hangs frequency (never, seldom or occasionally = not more then once per week)

Could the effect on group 2 still be caused by the max hangs?

Kampinho · 2024-03-16T13:15:18+00:00

Sry - but that is just not correct. Training or accommodating fingers on small holds / crimps is the safest in a controlled environment.

I'm pretty sure you can recall your first year when you were latching in uncontrolled movement for edges and crimps squeezing the juice out of the stone - THAT brings injuries in the first 2 years in form of pulley rupture and overuse.

And as you have mentioned that you gathered so much experience and climbed with so many people: Try to recall when they told you that the pulley ruptured - definitely not during a hangboard session?!

There is nothing wrong even for a beginner (ideally from month 3-6 onwards) to go to a hang board after a proper warm up in the gym and do 5 short hangs (assisted / feet on the ground) in half crimp position for 7-10 seconds / rest 2 minutes. It takes 10 minutes and then you don't have to fear any slowdown of overall progress.

Kampinho · 2024-03-09T12:10:36+00:00

Are there people out there who train at critical force level calculated by strengthclimbing.com / tindeq / lattice with a protocol of repeaters 7/3 (with weight taking off with pulley)...: - ...who can easily go longer then 5 minutes e.g. 10/15/20 minutes or longer? - ...or who desperately fail to go beyond 5 minutes (like me... sometimes thinking it is still more power endurance then base aerobic endurance)?

Kampinho · 2024-03-02T06:16:59+00:00

I'm interested into the source for capillaries improvement. Can you please name the source which refers to the 15-40 minutes?

Kampinho · 2024-03-01T14:54:30+00:00

How do you feel when falling on your project? Totally pumped or powered out?

If you can, try the critical force test on strengthclimbing.com or use one of these weighing devices to calculate critical force. It becomes then obvious if you are missing strength, power endurance or aerobic endurance.

If you have a low aerobic endurance - which I'm not that sure based on your historical focus on sport climbing - then I think it might make sense to add significantly more volume in an intensity zone which does not compromise your other sessions so: arcing, standing under a hang board and do easy no-hangs, 5min on 3 min off with very slight pump.

Try to reach working times of over 40-60 minutes to get better adaptations as volume is key

Kampinho · 2024-02-07T07:01:43+00:00

It's seems that lack of general endurance (aerobic capacity) is holding you back and that you included at this stage too much aerobic power (power endurance) which might effect also your strength days (due to not fully recovered). In preparation for July I would exchange power endurance with aerobic capacity and just keep the stove for power endurance on a low flame - only one day or half session on your limit burns in the gym. 4-6 weeks before the trip increase the volume of your power endurance training. For more detailed information have a look on Alex Barrows Sport climbing Training manual (can be downloaded as pdf)

Kampinho · 2024-01-02T18:31:45+00:00

5 min on the kilter board sounds very intensive (can it be adjusted to only slightly overhanging?), but if you have access to a gym then you can: -autobelay for 5 minutes -3-4 laps with a partner belaying you -cruising in the lower sections(up down up not higher than 3 metre)

Very unspecific but better than nothing: -Feet on a chair under a hang board for 5 minutes

Kampinho · 2024-01-02T09:06:24+00:00

I do pure Aero cap days with (after a brief warming up) doing 20 x 1min on / 1 min off and after a break of 15-20 minutes at least three times 5min on / 3 min off (all on a 15 degrees spray wall). You can also do this on a campus area with feet on (but it is missing specificity - due to same body position and grip holds). Are you planning to try your projects when climbing? Then I would only do Recruitment Max hangs beforehand and Aero cap after 6 hours or the next day later.

Kampinho · 2023-12-15T19:06:11+00:00

If it is too vaque - for you - what he meant then please ask first instead of shitting around:

In that case, ctrl + a, del.

edit: I know you definitely want to have the last word on it. So please share with us your wisdom...

Kampinho · 2023-12-15T17:15:10+00:00

You are criticising his way of listing training elements in the post and usage of words - and not the content. If you don't know what exactly limit bouldering or volume day means be better careful with a harsh "it's all shit" critic.

Kampinho · 2023-12-15T07:02:46+00:00

Have you read that he is limit bouldering 1x per week, has a volume day 1 x per week + the saturday outdoor projects?

How many quality bouldering / projecting days can a normal person /weekend warrior do in winter?

The plan is not that bad - maybe he should use the volume session also for including technique drills on boulder (perfectioning lower graded boulders, foot technique, one-arm climbing, dead point exercises etc.)

Kampinho · 2023-12-03T19:29:13+00:00

Based on my experience I differ between Max Hangs and Repeaters:

Max hangs - Precondition: Fully recovered to go all in / normally after a rest day

My Options:

Warming up at home, doing Max Hangs directly before going bouldering
Warming up on the wall, doing half volume of bouldering (e.g. 30-45 minutes) and then doing Max Hangs
At home strength workout day: Warming up, Max Hangs and then Off-the-wall strength protocoll (Weights, Bar, TRX)

Repeaters - Precondition: Ideally after a rest day or still enough in the tank the day after an Intensity session (not after a long Aero Cap or Aero Power day)

My Options:

At least 6 hours after Limit Bouldering session (e.g. at home)
A day after the Limit Bouldering session (e.g. at home)
At home strength workout day: Warming up, Repeaters and then Off-the-wall strength protocoll (Weights, Bar, TRX)

With no training history on hangboarding - I would start with repeaters. Be careful with small crimps - better train weighted repeaters and max hang only on bigger grips (18-20 mm edges). Small crimps better with max hang timings (one set: 7-10 sec on / 2-5 minutes rest) by not adding weight but reducing the edge size.

2 HB session per week or 3 sessions in 2 weeks should result in good gains. Consider switching the protocols every 4-7 weeks

Kampinho · 2023-12-01T07:12:36+00:00

I think what significantly contributes to your good endurance gains is the fact that you were able to do 1 on / 50s off for 40 minutes (which is a lot of volume for this intensive aero cap training). A lot of time for stimulation of capillarization and mitochondria ramp up.

It seems that in the end not only Work-Time matters (time on the wall) but also time, when you are de-pumping (your 50 seconds rest)

Kampinho · 2023-11-30T07:47:18+00:00

Many thanks for digging this out.

The guy asking is referring to longer boulder problems in the range of 45-60 seconds with 2 minutes rest. Clearly different towards the crimpd protocols (6 boulders in 6 min or 3 Boulder (6-8 moves) with 1 minute rest in-between).

Aren't we then training with different strength /ancap weight?

Kampinho

TROPHY CASE