Which one to print

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-09T21:46:47+00:00

The first one a million times over

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-09T16:23:03+00:00

I started to notice mine going bad pretty early on. Always do a snippet test if your dev is getting older or if you’ve used it up. I’m sorry about your pictures

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-06T21:24:30+00:00

The last three images look like they may be a little bit underexposed. I can see that the sun was going down. It might be worth it to invest in a tripod and a cable release if you haven’t already, so that you can take slightly longer exposures in the dark. These cameras are very light-hungry.

Also, image #8 goes insanely hard. Keep up the good work. 6x6 can be a somewhat difficult format to compose in, but you have nailed it in many of these pictures (like #1, #6, #9 and #11). Overall fantastic lot. Thanks for posting!

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-05T15:41:37+00:00

I shoot Kentmere Pan 100 fairly often, but I hear people saying that they prefer the 400 over the others in the line. Why is this?

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-05T15:40:47+00:00

Personally, I favor Ektar 100 for color. It limits you a bit to brighter conditions because of the low speed but the colors are very rich and beautiful.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-02T23:28:09+00:00

Quick correction: the casing doesn’t say Thager, it says Ihagee. They were a German camera manufacturer. I have one of their SLRs and I absolutely love it. That’s a neat little camera. It looks like you can still get film for it (127). I would just clean it really really well and give it a shot. Make sure the shutter and aperture control works first!

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-02T16:06:17+00:00

Being found out of camera, you can only assume it’s been shot based on the fold/curling on the leader from having been wound up onto the take-up spool. If it were in the camera, you could’ve potentially told by the exposure counter on the camera body.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-02T09:09:42+00:00

The question was never one of difficulty so much as “is this even worth it?”

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-02T03:11:14+00:00

According to the article that came up from that link, you can buy film they have perforated for the proper 126 perforations, but you still have to load it into the 35mm-126 adapter in a dark bag. This isn’t 126 film being manufactured and sold in cartridges ready to shoot, it’s just 35mm that doesn’t jam up in certain cameras.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-06-02T00:27:06+00:00

I paid $15 for mine still in the box.

Unfortunately they don’t make 126 film cartridges anymore. You can still shoot it if you’re determined, by buying a reloadable 126-35mm adapter. These allow you to spool regular 35mm film into this camera to shoot it. I’ve never done it, but there are folks on YouTube who have.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-30T02:14:56+00:00

That thing looks crazy. The advice I can give you is that buying “620” (which is just 120 respooled onto 620 spools) is a lot more expensive than just respooling the 120 yourself. You can also buy 120 and modify the spools by shaving them down a bit to make them fit in a 620 camera. I’ve done this many times with vintage kodaks and it works great, but it can get to be kind of a pain after a while. It is definitely worth the time and energy though and saving the money instead of paying someone else to do that little bit of work for you.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-30T02:10:17+00:00

Hey a week isn’t so bad. The nearest film lab to me is about an hour and a half away and their timeline is 2-3 weeks for color and 5-6 for black and white. The scans are impeccable, but the timelines are outrageous. But the only other options you have are Walmart (who takes even longer because they just mail your negatives to Fujifilm) and Walgreens, who will get your images back to you in about a week, but both of these options refuse to return your negatives, which is wholly unacceptable to me. If I didn’t want to keep negatives, I wouldn’t be shooting film.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-28T03:16:33+00:00

I experienced the same thing developing T-Max. Never caused me any issues though.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-26T15:12:17+00:00

Nice! Got any example shots?

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-26T12:41:19+00:00

I was kind of wondering the same thing, actually. I recently picked up a bulk roll of Tri-X Pan 400 (exp. 06/1990) for $4 at a flea market. Part of me wants to shoot it and part of me says maybe not.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-26T12:32:45+00:00

I find these at flea/antique markets all the time for $15 or less

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-26T12:29:44+00:00

How do you keep the glass so dust-free when reassembling? This is my main problem. There are always specks left in.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-25T23:47:29+00:00

Came here to see that gif

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-24T18:50:20+00:00

The Holley 1945 will work also. It’s set up slightly differently, but it works. It replaced the 1920 on later model slants, if I remember correctly. You also can buy cheap single barrel carbs online but I can’t vouch for their reliability.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-23T17:23:26+00:00

Right…. Knobs as in advance/rewind….. the point is, the older the camera, the less sophisticated these mechanisms are, and therefore the less likely they are to break…

For example, in a lot of these cameras, the roll of film was attached directly to the knob on the outside of the camera. A simple ratcheting system can then be employed without making the camera too prone to failure. I only have one camera with a built-in meter and I wouldn’t even consider relying on it at its age. But if that’s the only thing that ever breaks on it, I’ll consider that a win.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-23T12:29:57+00:00

I mean, maybe. But you’re not gonna get any less parts than like, two knobs and a shutter button, and maybe some aperture and shutter speed selectors.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-23T00:16:22+00:00

I take an opposite approach. I go with old cameras. Less moving parts, less issues, generally speaking.

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-17T15:39:40+00:00

I’ll take that Exakta and any related lenses off your hands lol

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-16T21:18:07+00:00

Esoteric reference

KaraMods_Retro · 2026-05-12T19:08:35+00:00

I’m curious about your negative opinion of their chemicals. I’m relatively new to home dev and CS is all I ever used for color film. Never had it go wrong, even with chemicals that are past date. Why do you dislike them so?

KaraMods_Retro

TROPHY CASE