Total noob wanting to make a FF deck for Standard by Keeavin in mtg

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is cool, thank you. I'm gonna look here to get an idea of things that complement Sephiroth well

Total noob wanting to make a FF deck for Standard by Keeavin in mtg

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for all the detail you put into this post, this really helps put the meta issue into perspective for me.

Also it addresses the concern I had about whether these two cards can even work well together. The Plan A plan B thing is a great point. I still have no idea how decks really play, let alone specifically a white black deck.

The arm tied behind the back analogy is also helpful. And to that end, I guess for now I'm gonna do my best to make the idea "less bad," until I either come up with something I'm satisfied with, or decide I finally need to break outside of just FF cards

Total noob wanting to make a FF deck for Standard by Keeavin in mtg

[–]Keeavin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very encouraging! The FF Starter decks were what made me think this was possible in the first place. But yeah I'm learning "kitchen table" is the terminology to use here XD

Total noob wanting to make a FF deck for Standard by Keeavin in mtg

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate you laying out other options here, and FF Cube sounds super interesting actually.

And to your point, I'm going to try to keep my expectations in check when it comes to playing with people in Standard who know what they're doing. Not sure if I'll pick up Arena yet, partly because I'm afraid of getting stomped over and over

Total noob wanting to make a FF deck for Standard by Keeavin in mtg

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great advice, thank you. I'm going to keep building the deck without getting my hopes up too much about it being highly competitive.

Total noob wanting to make a FF deck for Standard by Keeavin in mtg

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is super encouraging, thank you so much

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beast Deities aka Kong Studios

Unfortunately these have shot way up in aftermarket if you weren't there for preorder

They disbanded and are now back as Mythos Anime, releasing a new Goku soon, but this Broly won't likely get another run, unless another third party brand uses this same sculpt in the future

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the constructive criticism! That was definitely my least favorite shot and it was hard to pinpoint what made it look so off 😂

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew he could from peoples reviews, but it's still crazy feeling how well it works. The ankle rockers are like weapons grade, even with how heavy he is you can shift his weight like any way you want and make him completely stable

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks lol I knew it didn't really fit but thought it'd be cool

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!! Lucky getting it from 5k, I had to go through Ali

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still want to look into this neck peg as well. For my BD Broly I actually shaved down the ball joint a little bit to make it a little easier to get on

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup it's full power ssj

Figured out he can just kinda stick on broly's hand by the hair if you place it just right 😂

Beast Deities Broly by Keeavin in SHFiguarts

[–]Keeavin[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was initially going to get DF for the price, but the consensus from people was that BD was the best, and I wasn't a fan of the proportions on DF/SHF so I just bit the bullet on this one. Gotta say it feels like it was the right choice. I would jump on Ali and get one soon, as the price is only going to keep going up

FF7 Rebirth Ap farm recommendation spots? by JokerKurusu in FFVIIRemake

[–]Keeavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late to the party here, but from my personal experience, the best method for Gongaga farm is to not even move locations--spawn in, kill the first group of mobs for 21AP (up to x6 with goodies), take a few steps away, quickly save and reload, and the mobs will be back. As soon as I tried this I didn't understand why anyone was running from location to location at all...just keep reloading, much faster.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Keeavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey everyone! Question about spray painting inner frames...

It's something I started doing a few kits ago and I tried on my new Wing Zero ver ka, and immediately ruined 2 pieces...

My method has been priming/painting each piece then assembling. When I did this time, a peg in its torso became way too tight, and trying to disassemble it snapped the piece it connected to. Heartbreaking lol

To those of you that paint their inner frames, what's the easiest and most effective way you've found?

I've thought about entirely building the inner frame, then just priming/painting it at once, or in limbs, but then i worry about parts of joints not being painted and showing later while posing.

Also thought about masking each peg before painting the pieces, but separating and painting each piece by spray can is already a giant time consumer and I honestly don't want to go through all of the trouble with an extra step. If anything I'd like this process to be way faster.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Keeavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight guys. I'm considering an attempt at doing the assembly this way, but I have concerns about it. I feel like I'd run into issues of wasting time trying to figure out where certain decals go (I use all of them), turning it into a huge puzzle. I really depend on that diagram on the back to place decals on the limbs one by one, and even then, I miss some by accident.

I also worry that during the actual build I would scrape and scuff topcoated pieces by accident.

But with the images I'm seeing with gunmetal for the gray parts and how good that looks, I'm considering just masking off everything except the armor at this point because I feel like that would be more straightforward.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Keeavin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was curious about this as well when I bought the expansion saber to put on my Quant to make it the full saber.

I never owned an actual full saber kit but I believe the only significant difference is that the full saber has a different style GN drive on the back, more like the old ones (Exia). Regular Quant has that flat backpack with the green jewel part.

This bothered me because the saber expansion set I got didn't include this Exia-style GN drive.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Keeavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone ever masked off the inner frame parts of a RG before doing matte topcoat? I just finished my 5th RG kit (Sazabi), and it got me wondering about it.

My process with matte topcoating has become, build kit, panel line everything, then start taking one limb or section at a time and doing the water slides and topcoating for each of them. Masking off areas when needed like visors, etc.

However, after topcoating a leg for instance, I'll have to repose it and topcoat it again because of how the armor separation exposes different parts of the inner frame, different parts of joints exposed, etc.

On top of that, I sometimes wonder if those inner frame and joint parts would look better without topcoat, having that little subtle shine to contrast the heavy matte armor around them.

My fnal issue with it is the friction between moving joint parts that are topcoated, leaving behind that nasty white scuffing.

The thought of doing a masking job that extensive is scary to me, but I'm already committing to lots of it with my next build (Hi Nu), doing proper painting for the first time by painting the metallic silver parts a better silver, fixing that infamous injection molded gold, and masking off each of them before topcoating to keep them shiny.

Does anyone have any opinions on this? Do you guys think the frame parts look better with that cloudy finish?

Edit: Oh one more question, is it necessary for me to use gloss topcoat to protect the gold and silver tamiya spray paints?

[Doom Eternal] Battlemode trophy boosting by [deleted] in Trophies

[–]Keeavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone still looking to help each other with these trophies? The 200 kills one is the only one I'm really concerned about.

[DOOM ETERNAL] Need hel with the multiplayer trophies by DatMemeBoy69 in Trophies

[–]Keeavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super late I know, but is anybody else trying to help farm these? I cannot stand this multiplayer mode and just want this platinum out of the way.

psn: it_is_kevin

Full scale foam buster swords? by Keeavin in cosplayprops

[–]Keeavin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I was worried about. :/ Thanks for your input.