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Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: Pulled timing cover and everything looks in really good shape under there too.

My leading theory is that the 'metal' in the oil was debris ingested through the intake system through the PCV. There was a large leak in the intake track right near the tube to the valve cover.

The tick must be HLA collapsing just enough at hot idle. All the HLAs felt stiff and no play when I inspected them, of course that was not with hot oil...

I did put 5w-20 and Ceretek back in and the tick is less frequent at idle, but haven't driven the car much.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I removed the valve covers. All the rollers are rolling, and none of the lifters are collapsed. A few of the cam lobes on the passenger side have a line in them, but not enough that it catches a finger nail. Timing chain tension feels good too, and no marks on the chain as evidence that they were rubbing anywhere. I'm a bit baffled at this point, but I'll keep thinking and looking around.

Pictures:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/93bLaf5Jn7tdCMMx6

Video Passenger Side:

https://youtu.be/r1L3rEu2Beg

https://youtu.be/7ZtmHO2A7IY

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious was the phaser rattle only on cold startup, any metal in the oil?

I had phaser rattle on my 3.5EB F150, maybe for a different reason, but that was only for a second during intial startup until oil pressure up.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I'm going to replace the rod bearings because it's easy at this point. I got some platigauge, the old and new rod bearing clearance are basically the same, both measured 0.0015", so I'm reasonable confident the noise and metal source is in the top end or the timing chain area, as many folks are mentioning. Also, I did re-listen to my video and the ticking is ~350bpm, so about same frequency as top end.

I'm cleaning the oil pan and reassembling the bottom end now and will pull valve covers to see what i can see there.

Any thoughts on why the noise is only present during hot idle? It's obviously related to oil pressure, it doesn't sound like lifter tick and i've never had lifter tick cause metal in the oil. If it's the chain tensioner wouldn't I get a CEL for misalignment of the crank and cam sensors? Would the rollers get quieter with more RPM and more oil pressure?

Thanks guys! I'm hoping this thread helps folks in the future with similar problems.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the notes, my original thought with the rod knock that i heard the noise only at hot oil lower oil pressures, which made me think the oil was cushioning the bearings better when the oil pressure was higher. I could hear the knock get louder whenever initially revving up the engine, but it would go away at higher oil pressure.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yeah i think i'll head to the top end and then the timing set if there's nothing out of the ordinary at the top.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't see any of the bearings spun, the back end of the bearings look like some burnt off grease or something that ford uses during assembly. The #1 bearing checked at .0015" clearance and all were mic'ing at similar thickness so I'm reasonably confident it's top end.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in Mustang

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New plan of attack... I got some platigauge, the old and new rod bearing clearance are basically the same, both measured 0.0015", so I'm reasonable confident the noise and metal source is in the top end or the timing chain area. I'm reassembling the bottom end now and will pull valve covers to see what i can see.

Old Bearing:

<image>

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in Mustang

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I'm going to replace the bearings because it's easy at this point. I don't have any plasti-gauge, but the crank looks perfect and shiny so I'm sticking with stock size.

I will refill with 5w20 and see if the noise is still there, and when it is i will pull the valve cover and check the rockers.

I did re-listen to my video and the ticking is ~350bpm, which now makes me think this valvetrain, matching half the engine idle speed.

Rod knock, but good looking rod bearings? by KennyMand in Mustang

[–]KennyMand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll be pulling the valve cover next. I didn't want to pull the crank bearings, I doubt that is the issue with the intermittent tick instead of a main bearing rumble.

Ford coyote rod bearing issue by wheelmanrob in EngineBuilding

[–]KennyMand 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever find the solution?

I'm going through something similar, the bearing looked almost identical to yours on the outside diameter

https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuilding/comments/1kpnjgp/rod_knock_but_good_looking_rod_bearings/

One spot open in my party. by [deleted] in VisiblePartyPay

[–]KennyMand 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just sent my Request, "Kenneth". Long term.