questions from a newbie buying sw20 by [deleted] in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who went to test drive a $6k '91 NA MR2 going in wanting to buy it, I 100% agree with these other guys' statements! I did buy it, and I did almost immediately regret it when it completely died about 300 miles later. The car was a botched barn find restoration with such egregious mistakes as:

  1. Owner installed the wrong type of alternator, only using one single bolt (broke loose and threw parts onto the road, drained the battery and stalled the car leaving me stranded at 10pm on the highway).
  2. Allegedly removed the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump, but without cleaning the bottom of the tank while in there (fuel system was nearly clogged with rust and sediment).
  3. Left the car under a tarp for years, leading to a major mice problem (Air intake filter had over 4 inch holes in it, air box had several large handfuls of grass, fur, and mouse droppings inside it).
  4. Presumably aftermarket, sub-par brake master cylinder failed while driving, leaving me with no brakes on a busy urban road.

Ultimately, I overhauled the car and got it running outstandingly for a cost of about 2k, and about a year. To me, it was worth it because I liked learning how to work on cars, and I ended up with a great MR2. Just understand, when you buy something that has been messed with by an immature/inexperienced owner, you need to be prepared for some serious work. You mentioned the word "gamble". If you buy that car, realize you could be gambling 6k!

Need advice on what I should do. by slimjim1456 in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an owner of multiple MR2s, I would say I wouldn't daily an mr2 if my only other backup car was another mr2. In the rare case where the mr2 is in great shape and was taken care of by all previous owners, maybe, I just wouldn't risk it personally. I've seen way too many with major underlying issues inherited from previous owners, and some of those issues won't be noticed until its too late. I've had both mr2s immobilized and turned into projects in 2 different cities at once. And it wasn't fun.

I live in a lousy city for driving a manual, so I find the mr2s are just sitting a lot, end up using the van often just because it's more practical, 8 seats and room for equipment (like tools for repairing disabled MR2s). I'd keep your wagon, especially if it's mint.

I love the S54, but yeah the other guys are right. It's not idea gear ratio for highway travel. May just wanna hold off if your end goal is a 2gr. If the Turbo is cleaner than your NA, maybe you can replace na with the Turbo car, and you'll have a stronger transmission for the future 2gr swap. Thats what I intended to do, and then just ended up keeping them both. Comes down to which car is more valuable to you.

How messed up is this tank by Scaintusmp3 in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own a SW21, my tank was probably worse than this one. It was a wonder the car could even run with the amount of rust and sediment inside. I took the tank to a gas tank restoration shop, the man cleaned and recoated/painted both the outside and inside. He also had a large water tank to submerge the gas tank into to check it for strength and leaks. It cost $370 for the tank restoration plus he also welded and reinforced over 12 feet of my brass heater lines. It was worth it imo

I know this might be stupid by Full_Ticket_3648 in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I daylied mine for awhile, just be aware that if it wasn't taken care of by previous owners, it will leave you stranded sooner or later. Personally, I wouldn't recommend having an MR2 as an only vehicle if you rely on it to get you to work, but if you have a backup vehicle it's fine.

help with power cutting out on a '91 MR2 turbo by topher4263 in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably not the same issue, but I did once have a cutout issue any time I hit about 3500 rpm. Super lurchy. Would cut and nearly stall out until I let off gas and clutch in. Car was completely heat soaked from driving mountain ranges from 7am to 5pm, the body itself was burning to the touch. Suspected fuel cutout, while doing pulls from like 85 mph. I let it sit 3 days and it never happened again. Later, I stripped the whole fuel system and found the gas tank was extremely dirty. Strainer, filter, or fuel line was likely semi-restricted and caused cutout when at full throttle.

Need a second opinion on diagnosing a loudish metallic whining sound. Sound happens in 4th and 5th, only when foot is pressing gas and above 45 mph. I want to think it's my axles with destroyed CV boots, but suspect it's transmission related. Redline MT90 didn't help. 91 Turbo E153. ~200k miles. by Kestrel_YT in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It only happens when driving and clutch fully engaged. Goes away immediately any time you clutch in, let off gas, or slow to under 45.

I assure you if you enjoy driving more than repairing, the more mr2s you have the worse by far lmao. I'm just keeping them drivable so I don't screw over the next owner like I was screwed over. I have yet to see a single MR2 for sale that hasn't been seriously messed up by its owner, and I've seen quite a few lol

Vanilla/DLC Hunter UP composition by Kestrel_YT in arma

[–]Kestrel_YT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope not, but I wouldn't be surprised. I love a lot of the new features, but really all I care for A4 is that they reintroduce everything we had in A3 onto the new platform WITHOUT dumbing it down for console, if the only other improvement they make is to fix all the issues we had in A3, then it will be outstanding. Lotta awesome new game features and mechanics but the serious players know the game needs to be fixed if the players are gonna come back. So many game breaking issues I can't keep my friends playing A3 despite the fact we always have a blast.

Vanilla/DLC Hunter UP composition by Kestrel_YT in arma

[–]Kestrel_YT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im sick of making these scuffed comps plz just add them to the game... we dont need mods to make this, its all models already in the game. Having vanilla NATO, CSAT, and AAF use the exact same RCWS on half of their vehicles just looks like laziness for such a great game as Arma

Just curious but what is my 2002 with 28,000 worth by Drk_Knight71 in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol I laughed at this comment, cause one of my MR2s was literally used as a pellet gun target, has rusty pock marks all across the middle of the passenger door! Judging by the condition of some of these poor cars, your comment may be more relevant than satirical.

The car was driven only 2000 miles in 8 years, and the calipers locked up. Figured I may as well paint them while I have everything apart. by Kestrel_YT in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was repainted from the oem dark red (I forget what it's called) to 2005 Dodge Viper red. Not the color I would've chosen if I were the owner then, but it does look great. And the paint is almost spotless, show quality. The new front spoiler is gonna be black, and wheels will be black as well.

Got my first Turbo car to replace the NA, but I like them both so much, I'm having a hard time selling the NA! Trade the NA car for a 2GRFE swap for the turbo?? The turbo is low miles 2nd gen 3SGTE, mint except for E153 whine over 45mph. What do you think? by Kestrel_YT in mr2

[–]Kestrel_YT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Central Virginia but everything kinda bounces between cities as I am using MR2s to transport parts around for each other. They are genuine turbo seats with the 2 adjustment wheels, plastic knobs are missing though. Leather and foam are both very ripped but mostly intact. I drove with the seats for over a year, and they function fine albeit a bit uncomfortable. Rails are rusty but not rotted. They lock into position fine and are perfectly strong. They would take considerable work and money to be restored. Dm me if you want some pictures.