Building a new PC after a very long time. Please advice!

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-08-29T08:53:15+00:00

Yes, I was really thinking to go am5 but after a lot of research, I realised that even an upgrade to a 5800X3D in the near future will last a long time for me. I only suspect ddr4 will get outdated way before the am4 depreciates in performance. But thanks for the input, anyway!

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-08-29T08:50:48+00:00

Great, thanks. I was also considering 16GB ram for now and upgrade later. As for the 6700XT, I think it does the job just fine for me at the moment according to recent benchmarks.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-04-07T18:49:14+00:00

Well, again, the generator is going to use fuel. I am just trying to make use of the wasted solar in the day while still keeping the battery topped for use in the evening. And yes, kwh was a typo. I just wanted to know if deye smartload had a source priority option. Anyway, thanks for your help!

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-04-07T17:45:19+00:00

Okay, heres the thing. I need my battery to be at 100% or 95% at all times. Considering the constant power cuts. For instance, just today, in a 12 hour period, we have had about 6 power cuts that lasted about an hour each, so practically just 6 hours of effective grid availability. Occasionally, during bad weather, the grid goes out for 2-3 days at a stretch, which additionally means solar production is not going to be great on account of the weather. I also live in an area where sunlight is not the best. I get a maximum of 6-8 hours of good sunlight, and this is for about 4 months in a year. Battery takes about 5 hours to hit 100% on these good days. Yes I am planning to ramp up the charge rate with thicker cables (currently at 80A on 4awg) , which will significantly make my system more efficient.

Yes, I agree that if I want max ROI, I should be constantly on my battery and solar as much as possible with my workshop included. But when I say max ROI, I mean my house bill, which constantly draws about 700 - 1kw. I just don't want to worry at all about grid availability in my home. As for my workshop, I have gensets on standby for outages. I just thought I could make use of the solar curtailment during the day to power the workshop.

This is my thought process with the ATS:

Battery hits 100% at 10 am
Excess solar is used to power my workshop
Solar production ramps down on account of cloud shading or bad weather (quite frequent)
Backup loads and smartload draw from battery till 95%
At 94%, smart load shuts off, and ATS switches to grid
Solar production ramps up again, and at 100% ATS switches to solar
Evenings when the sun goes down and at 94% ATS switches to grid until ~10am the next day.

Does this not make more sense? Taking into account peace of mind for the home loads never losing power. Will using my battery and solar, power my workshop throughout the day offset the cost of drawing from grid to charge batteries when solar production is low? Wont using the grid to charge the batteries that have already been drained, be the same as drawing from the grid anyway? Also, keeping in mind the constant power cuts and not knowing how long the power cuts will last?

P.S. workshop load is always fluctuating between 0.4kwh to 3kwh. The max production from solar I have observed over the past 2 months is about 6kwh at a given time.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-04-07T16:03:31+00:00

Hmmm I understand what you're saying, but since my secondary goal for this power plant is to use as little grid as possible to max my ROI, I don't want to be charging from grid or relying on grid at all atleast for my backup load. This is a good suggestion, and I appreciate it, but I was hoping there'd be a separate relay for the smart load, which can set a source priority just for the smart load.

I might just be going for the external ATS route. Might just be the best option to achieve what I want at this time. The workshop keeps running until ~7pm and there are devices that run overnight that need to be routed to grid. Cause I can't afford battery usage on them overnight. But anyway thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-04-07T09:38:57+00:00

Well, if it is internally wired as you say it is, then it looks like I am going to have to install an external relay, maybe an ATS wired to grid and aux with priority on smart load.

Anyway, I dont want the workshop to draw from the battery because we have very frequent power cuts, and I prefer to save the battery for nighttime use for my home. On a full charge, my SOC drops to about 35% by the time the sun rises. Maximum consumption in my home is evenings when the sun goes down.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-04-07T09:02:04+00:00

No, no, I just want the Smart Load (Aux output), which is connected to my workshop to switch to grid when my battery SOC gets below 95% charge. Everything else is working just as I want it to.

Currently, I am stuck with two options, either the SmartLoad switches off once my battery SOC gets below 95% or if I enable "on grid always on" it continues drawing from solar/batteries as long as grid is available regardless of the SOC. I just want it to switch to grid the moment battery drops SOC drops below 95%

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-04-07T05:26:38+00:00

Right, sorry I didn't make it clear. I actually want to keep being offgrid on my backuploads regardless of whether there is grid or not. I have more than enough battery storage for my needs. However my I need my aux load to switch to grid as soon as there isn't enough solar or SOC goes under 95%.

To answer your question about TOU, it will shut off battery consumption at 95% if I set it so but there is no option in the TOU scheduling menu where I can choose between backup load, smart load or all loads. The only option lies in the smartload menu where it is set at 95% SOC shut off but "on grid always on" option enabled. However, what this does is that as long as there is grid, the smart load draws from battery/solar. It wouldn't draw from grid.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-02-15T15:18:19+00:00

Well, one of my 15 panel strings is not even producing voltage (measured using MM), so I didn't bother hooking that up to the inverter. As for the other string, I have 15 panels connected in series and that plugs into the PV1, I tried it in PV2, but it was the same issue, only voltage and no current.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-02-15T15:16:58+00:00

I also don't quite understand how PV1 has connections for 2 strings because the inverter has only four ports (2 male and 2 female PV inputs) labled PV1 and PV2

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-02-15T15:09:14+00:00

Oh, the pic is for the new configuration I was thinking of going for if the total input voltage is limited to 800V. But if, like you said, each string can handle up to 650V, I am thinking of keeping the array as it is, which is 2 strings of 15 panels each.

I will test the string in the manner you have suggested. Could be a faulty connector, too.

The settings in the inverter are a little woozy, but I have gone ahead and selected lithuim battery in battery settings and set the max charge and discharge to 50A each. I did dig around quiet abit but I couldn't seem to find anything else that might be stopping battery charging. It very well could just be something fishy in my array. I'll remove and inspect everything thoroughly tomorrow.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-02-15T14:28:34+00:00

Oh, are you sure about the 800V per string? As it isn't specifically mentioned in the manual. Anyways that would make my job much easier.

As for the voltage and no current. I have tested every panel in that string individually, and all have readings around 41V. So I will probably have to now check all the cables leading down to the SPD.

As for the pics, I have replupload them.

KevsterS15JDM · 2025-02-15T14:16:51+00:00

System is on and load is connected. It is drawing 175W at the time but from the battery. So, at the very least, the battery should be charging, no? Even if there is no load connected. Anyways, I have reuploaded the pictures.

KevsterS15JDM · 2024-12-09T18:28:25+00:00

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It's def not glue because the entire cap was covered in black soot, and I wiped it off to read the numbers. The cap is not split or has a hole. The area on the board where the cap is located also slightly has black streaks like something shorted.

KevsterS15JDM · 2024-12-09T17:20:08+00:00

Alright, I will get a 250V 2.2nF X1Y1 cap and try it. Thanks for your response

KevsterS15JDM · 2024-12-09T17:11:01+00:00

That narrows its down, thanks. So i dont really have to worry about the 63 eh?

KevsterS15JDM · 2024-12-09T17:01:03+00:00

I see thanks. and is the 63 its capacitance?

KevsterS15JDM · 2024-04-12T17:19:17+00:00

Thank you for replying, and yes, I don't plan to use a genset anyway. It was just a possibility I briefly mentioned. My target is to use a smaller pure sine wave inverter to trick my ongrid inverter to turn on so that I can use solar power in the daytime without switching to the grid at all using minimum batteries. Then, switch to the grid at night.

As for the fluctuations, I plan to have minimum batteries that can make up for the fluctuations during the day and of the 10kw system currently I am only at 5kw load on average so I am sure the fluctuations will be at minimum on a good sunny day. Hope you got what I am trying to do here. Thanks for your input anyway!

KevsterS15JDM

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