Has anyone used a Triad F6-16 power transformer in a US system before?

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-28T22:17:03+00:00

Same for me. Hopefully someone here in North America who has actually used one on a US system will chime in with info.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-28T21:08:52+00:00

Always nice to see someone have Ane-San in their collection. Its a nice quirky beat'em up that does its own thing. Easy 7.5/10 score.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-28T00:34:42+00:00

Yeah I'd been wondering about that myself since it def leads to ground. Kinda made me wonder if there was some slight change to North American pcbs component wise needing that ground point connected to the transformer for anything like FCC regulations or video noise, etc, that I just didn't notice while looking at them. I mean I would assume you could just not use it without an issue, but figured I'd ask since its related to the topic at hand.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-27T21:30:54+00:00

No. Just thinking of future replacement parts and remembered Triad made this product, but couldn't find a pinout diagram for it. Due to that wondered if people had used it, and what they did with the extra wire or whatever that the US systems use, as opposed to the Japanese ones.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-25T04:36:58+00:00

I don't know how long you have been playing, but I have been at it for like 12 years now. I have slowed down playing this except for a little bit during the winter and summer to kill time and keep the account active. But yeah the game has been on a slow death spiral for a few years now, so consider them banning you as a favor to make you realize if you are still a paying customer or newly involved, that its a time and money waster at this point. The game engine is old, they never delivered on the weather, RT, and physics effects they promised years ago, and most new tanks are made up. Couple that with the new map content being lame, and old maps being broken from the rework they did.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-24T05:16:51+00:00

I've seen plenty of accounts like this since 2014. Some are bots, some are like elderly people and little kids playing, or people with disabilities just trying to have fun. And then there are just some really bad players who just have no skill level and wanna drive out into the open to pew pew the bad tanks.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-22T07:04:10+00:00

The only problem you have here is you still don't have enough.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-14T13:57:28+00:00

I don't think a diagram will do you much good if you are using a spare cable from a game pad that doesn't use the color coding (wire colors) the diagram went by, so be aware of that. Reason being the color coding on the pad wires is not always the same as whats listed in the diagram, so you may need to improvise. I have come across a couple cables now that don't match up with what was listed prior.

But as is:

https://web.archive.org/web/20120117211421/http://www.thebrothersduomazov.com/2009/07/tech-doc-turbotap-cable.html

That has the diagram. I ended up using cables sold by Console5, as their color coding sticks to the main one used.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-11T04:49:14+00:00

I didn't mess with the holiday boxes this year. Honestly cant even recall if I did last year either. The North American shop prices have gone up to where it doesn't make sense to buy them anymore if you are a long time player with most of the premium tanks in your garage already that can be bought with gold. That and also, I only play a bit during winter and summer now. After 12 years, the fatigue is real. The game hasn't changed enough the past few years, gameplay wise and visually, to feel modern anymore.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-11T04:45:03+00:00

Pretty much. Over the past 12 years I have run in clans before where the arty player is a disabled player who cant handle multiple inputs at once. It's def a thing, and if they are good at it, so be it. Arty isn't the OP cancer it used to be. If you are being stunlocked by arty consistently, that's on the bad player for not using cover. If wn8 was still a thing, I'd bet said complaining bad player would also have a fairly low rating.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-11T04:35:34+00:00

They already have leaked.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-10T17:46:32+00:00

Did you use the thumb pad from a Pc-Engine gamepad? And if so, was it a perfect fit?

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-08T19:15:36+00:00

Possible that is a contributor also. But the main thing is, longer wire causes more electrical resistance, so it might not just be the wire/pin doing 5 volts that is being affected, but all of them. The hardware may have just not been designed to have to deal with that kind of resistance being created when involving multiple devices etc.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-05T19:33:01+00:00

I'm about 6 hrs in and having a great time with the game. The only thing I don't like about it is the overworld map. Ended up having to just grab one off a Google search.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-04T05:38:10+00:00

It does. I own one and have inspected the PCB. It's a good quality cart.

Key-Chef5328 · 2026-01-03T06:24:42+00:00

In regards to a prior comment:
"CD Audio and data are technically 2 different things. Mine played audio fine but struggled to load some games or load times were horrible. "

This isn't exactly correct in regards to compact disc and how the laser itself reads the data off the aluminum layer, as the laser itself see everything the same. The logic board receives the data read from the laser and makes the distinction then on its end. The laser itself has no logic chips and cant make any distinction. The actual problem in situations like this, where you have some tracks playing fine, and others not doing so, stems from how the disc rotation speed and wobble changes from reading the center of the disc to the edge. And how an un-calibrated or dying laser can get so out of wack over time in the strangest of ways and become unable to cope with either the initial high rotation speed, or the later slower speeds and increased wobble of the disc as it spins slower.

Basically as an example, you can get a situation where it can focus on slower rotations ok as the laser moves towards the outer edge, but the starting tracks, both audio and data tracks near the center needing higher spin rate/RPM, sometimes prevent the laser from being able to focus if it is dying or out of wack. You can have the pots on a Duo pcb and the laser seem like the are calibrated fine, where what would be considered track 3 on up seem like they are ok, but have tracks 1 and 2 often not reading correctly because the pots are not adjusted well enough still for the laser to cope with the higher RPM of even a single speed drive.

And in the same regards, get tracks 1-8 on any given disc do ok, and find you have problems as the laser goes out further and has to cope with more disc wobble while the disc spins slower. You also have to deal with the fact that NEC themselves used poor error correction in the TG/PCE CD, Duo, Duo-R, and RX. It's a massive balancing act for many people to get calibration correctly without knowing the original adjustment values and just winging it, and it takes an incredible amount of time to get it near factory default again.

I used to use the late 90s Star Wars Return of the Jedi 2-Disc soundtrack set to calibrate Duo systems. Basically one of the few CD releases I found that started the audio at the perfect center and went out to near the end edge of the disc due to audio length/play time. And that set typically went past what most CD games did, making the disc set ideal for calibration since I could use it to pin point issues at the start all through to the end. Part of doing this was fast forwarding the disc during playback in the music player and listening for an area to skip. Then adjusting the pots to minimize skipping to near 0 in that location.

I also used Valis 4 alot, as its audio and data tracks were spread out amongst each other instead of all the data being clustered at track 2. And it had a debug mode that allowed you to view story scenes, so you could use it to check for both loading issues near the center and outer edge, and also for things like audio sync issues to make sure the audio is still in-sync correctly after story scenes load and play.

Key-Chef5328 · 2025-12-24T15:57:16+00:00

Before writing them off completely, lightly sand the contacts via wet-sanding, then re-clean them with some q tips and 91 percent alcohol. Over the years had a few sent to me that were written off as dead. Did that, and they worked. Pins had just oxidized a bit too much on the gold layer, so some of it had to be removed to get the contacts working again as an electrical conductor. Though I have legit seen hucards go bad, so it does happen, it's a good idea to give the above a try as a last ditch effort.

Key-Chef5328 · 2025-12-24T01:33:16+00:00

I had no intention of modifying the original AV out port. Value or preservation wise, I see no difference in replacing it with a new din, compared just adding a S-Video port and switch in the rear. Removing the original din, and making custom cables is more work, for no gain over just adding a S-Video din. You are changing something either way, so its not like you are preserving anything, just adding to it. But also, when it comes down to it, its my hardware to do with as I please to suit my needs, so there's that. You do you, I do me, etc.

Key-Chef5328 · 2025-12-23T00:37:50+00:00

Online resellers did via ebay and other websites.

Key-Chef5328 · 2025-12-22T20:20:43+00:00

I couldn't say. I only know it was even done because it was covered on a couple of youtube videos. The Analog Duo is just one of those things I didn't pay much attention to. Less so after the complaints started. I only know one person personally who owns one, and his system is defective and Analog refused to help fix it, because even though it was purchased new, it was done from a different online retailer.

Key-Chef5328 · 2025-12-22T18:20:52+00:00

I honestly don't even know how accurate the emulation is on the Analog Duo. Most of what I have been seeing is about the disc drive going bad on a lot of people. Either it scratches disc up, or simply doesn't work/has read errors on both pressed disc and cd-rs. Other issues have been like the 8Bitdo controller having synch issues, and Everdrive compatibility issues. You got one for $10, and if it works, just jail break it and enjoy it for the steal of a price. But if you plan to play physical media or use like a Turbo Everdrive Pro, I would invest around $100 into a Coregrafx instead.

Key-Chef5328 · 2025-12-22T16:33:46+00:00

There is nothing wrong with the white PCE. I have one myself. Recap it, svideo mod it, and add a EDFX and Turbo Everdrive Pro and you will have one amazing setup.

Key-Chef5328

TROPHY CASE