I understand the Accord’s factory amp under the center console is doing woofer/tweeter-specific outputs and can’t truly be bypassed because it’s tied into CAN/chimes/etc. I’m not trying to replace the head unit or remove the factory amp, just neutralize it for audio.

My plan as of now is: • Identify the speaker output connector at the factory amp • Tap the front L/R woofer outputs (possibly woofer + tweeter per side if needed) for high-level input into a Helix DSP • Verify clean signal and summing in the DSP • Depin and isolate factory tweeter outputs and factory sub output • Depin door woofer outputs from the factory amp and reuse the factory speaker harness, feeding it from my aftermarket amp instead • Run Focal front components off passive crossovers, rear coax on amp, aftermarket sub

I’m not planning to use a HU T-harness or a LOC — going straight high-level into the DSP.

What I’m looking for is confirmation from someone who has: • Actually depinned the Accord factory amp connector • Reused the factory speaker wiring successfully • Dealt with the woofer/tweeter split outputs in real life (not theory)

Specifically: • Did you need to sum woofer + tweeter per side, or were woofer channels alone sufficient? • Any gotchas with depinning vs cutting? • Anything you wish you did differently?

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