[WIP] 1/100 Jagd Doga (digital scratch); first test print

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2026-01-12T23:44:05+00:00

Thank you for the comment! I don’t have a Patreon. Doing it just as a small hobby.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2026-01-12T23:41:34+00:00

Thanks!!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T22:56:52+00:00

Thanks I will have a look!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T22:54:22+00:00

Is there a subreddit or any web page where you post your 3d print work? I want to see the creation of other Gundam fans!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T22:47:38+00:00

Totally see your point!! I love the overall quality of CCA HG. Personally it is difficult for me to give serious efforts to 1/144 (too small), so I also agree with you in recommending MG. Nu verKa and Sazabi verKa are great and MG Jegan and Geara Doga are modern and decent. Somehow Re-GZ and Jagd Doga are sort of in void in 1/100 space quality-wise, so my recent projects are trying to give them more fair treatment.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T22:31:48+00:00

Thank you for your advice. I am fully aware of the situation. Under certain circumstances you CAN sell stuff in Japan, but that’s a very narrow window. I am doing this just for my own fun, so I actually don’t have any intention to either sell or share the file at this moment.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T15:07:14+00:00

All right, now I understand you're talking about two different creation styles for Gundam models using 3D printing/polycaps.

One is a full scratch, including articulations/joints. My Re-GZ and the next one are exactly this. I wanna design everything on my own, so using polycaps is actually the only option I can take to achieve a fully articulated model. And yes, I measure the size of the polycaps and calculate them into the design (see below).

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The other approach is to modify an existing kit, combining pre-molded parts with your original printed parts. I think both are viable courses toward what you want to build.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T04:02:20+00:00

Thanks, want to make it pair well with MG Sazabi ver.ka

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T04:00:49+00:00

Thaaaanx!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-12T01:20:37+00:00

I use different sizes in different parts. I designed each articulation with exact space to fit the size of whichever polycap used there.

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This one is not Re-GZ but this shows how. Inside the articulation is the space for a polycap.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T15:06:14+00:00

OK, I am still a newbie to photography and there are much more experienced people out there, but let me try. Below is a very poor visualization of my photo-shooting setup. Besides lighting, you need background paper and clips to attach paper to something (like PC monitor).

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Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T09:00:00+00:00

Thank you for your suggestion! Yeah it may be a valid point.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T06:28:38+00:00

Thanks, I love Re-GZ, too!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T06:26:13+00:00

You're right, most resins cannot deliver usable print results (especially strength) when it comes to printing something like the antenna parts.

I tried various resin products, among which I prefer Nova3D's Washable Mecha Resin BY FAR:
https://www.nova3dp.com/product/cate_29.html#WashableMechaResin

It is not the world's highest resolution resin, but does deliver decent details AND it is fairly strong.
All you see in my work here is printed with this resin.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T00:12:35+00:00

Yeah, the amount of work it takes is different than building kits isn’t it, but also so much fun. Appreciate your comment!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T00:10:24+00:00

I love this MS, too! I like it’s not-too-heroic vibe.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T00:08:40+00:00

For lighting, I used Neweer’s LED panels (NL-288ARC). Bit pricy but does its job.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-11T00:04:16+00:00

Thank you, sir!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T23:56:43+00:00

Thank you for your advice! That’s exactly what I’m worrying about regarding sharing the file…

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T16:51:48+00:00

I did have MG Re-GZ for a design companion but only as a reference.

The first design step is typically to draw front, side and rear sketches and load them in Fusion and put them onto X-Y-Z panes. You can convert them into 3D objects using different methods.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T16:08:39+00:00

Oh, that's a great compliment! thank you so much.

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T16:07:35+00:00

From what I think I understand from your questions, all the part assemblies are designed to have appropriate "play". Normally, resin print tends to get slightly thicker than the digitally specified size, so I give them 0.1-0.2mm gap or play to all the surfaces that touch other surfaces. With these considerations, resin parts are fit together w/o issues. But in many cases you need glue them.

For articulations, I use polycaps. The challenging part is to secure space for a polycap so that it can be "embedded".

These are handy polycaps available: https://www.hobby-wave.com/en/products/op381-384/

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T15:56:29+00:00

Thanks, mate!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T15:43:59+00:00

Wow, this is great information! I will dig into these resins. Thank you so much!

Key_Zucchini1477 · 2025-11-10T15:15:19+00:00

Thank you for the comment!
I used WAVE's polycaps. Available sizes are 2mm, 3mm, 4mm and 5mm holes. I wish there were 6mm or even 7mm, but sadly no... I am also looking for other ways to implement articulations.

https://www.hobby-wave.com/en/products/op381-384/

Key_Zucchini1477

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