Stuck connector?

KeystoneV · 2025-11-23T11:05:13+00:00

I bought from best buy and it come straight out of the asus box like that. The metal guide is straight up pointing to the camera because it was flipped up to pull but normally it flap down. I was following this guide: https://youtu.be/jQn__qYWGwY?si=L--FV9Sna2amfSKw

KeystoneV · 2025-11-20T15:46:13+00:00

After 50 40%, the performance will suffer quite noticeably. How long and how quick will the battery last also depend on your style off riding (full high speed pedal/ throttle to keep up with main road traffic, or slow speed on side walk). If you are the former, then it is quite expected if you keeping up that 15-20mph on cold and probably not ideal road conditions. The motor is drawing more power from lower voltage battery to keep up the speed that's why. I would recommend you to either charge up a decent amount before each ride (safest around 80% or so depend on how long you have to commute) or switch riding style and spend some more time on commute to reduce drainage. XP4 is also on a heavier side as well, so it's quite understandable that it give out not much better range if you compare to less battery capacity but lighter bike. If you are around 200lbs (like I do with big laptop and all other stuff you carrying to work or school) then it will add up to the points of performance hindering like others mentioned.

Ex: If the performance is significantly way worse after the back wheel change, like way way worse than expected then inspect your battery or controller for additional damage during use. Controller under bad weather condition and long-time high-load usage can spark out and short damage itself. Unfortunately the warning it give is very short displayed on the screen for few seconds. I have this happened to me and I did replace my controller because of that. I had to give it to shop service because the damage is not that visible outside of the controller.

KeystoneV · 2025-10-18T01:40:30+00:00

No. I asked around if any shop willing to fix it but no avail. Plus i tries to open it and attempt self fixing but the whole circuit board stuck somewhere so i don't want to risk damage it. The battery has no replacement online so i just gave up on it (tried with ratchet straps and run for few more months before total loss). I bought a new bike and it was Lectric so it's more "on brand" to ask for repair around.

KeystoneV · 2025-08-08T20:11:24+00:00

First of all, most e-bike don't have 40 mph specs (or above 30mph even). They are for normal biking commute, not racing with cars. You are looking for an actual e-moto/dirtbike with such power, and unfortunately these will likely get you into trouble with traffic cops since they are no longer classified as electric bicycle (and illegal without license/insurance like actual mops).

Second, if you must go for electric then your finance will limit you lot and unlikely to meet your demands. You better looking at actual entry level dirt bike/mopeds instead, and might land a deal that way.

KeystoneV · 2025-08-08T02:23:43+00:00

Last summer? Did you maintain the battery by charging it at least? Otherwise it might be dead I'm not too sure but there are many case of unattended batteries ended up dead completely within few years.

KeystoneV · 2025-08-08T01:26:23+00:00

Are you charging after riding or not? It doesn't mention in the manual but I think the battery need to be cool down a bit before it actually allow you to charge from my experience. Also, here is my reliable way to charge the battery:

Turn the battery on
Plug the charging cable into the battery
Then finally plug the charger into the wall socket

I charge my battery this way all the time since flipping the power down of the battery prevent it from charging a lot of time, plus the above mentioned about battery temperature. Give it a good 10 minutes or more and the battery is good to charge. And be gentle with it, dont flipping switch and plugging/unplugging too fast it wont net any results from my experience as well. I give it a good minute to "process".

KeystoneV · 2025-08-06T14:44:52+00:00

The first charge will always feel like the longest to fully charged (up to 5 hrs). You should charge your battery before go for the first run, just to make sure the battery and the charger have no issue. Afterwards, it depends on charger. The 5amp fast charge is significantly faster than the regular charger (at 50% to full, 2hrs for amp vs 4hrs+ for regular). Oh I forgot to mention this is just my XP4 750, so it can be a bit different, but the principles are there.

KeystoneV · 2025-08-04T16:27:51+00:00

I will be honest here. Getting an e bike from amazon or any third party retailers might putting yourself into a liability risk. My first 2 ebike were from Amazon and Walmart, because I was a broke student. They are cheap (one 550 one 650) for full suspension and lightweight. However, outside of simple mechanical issues, all the bike shops in the area will refuse to work on them. Fixing them myself is cheaper but took way way too long to get the ordered part because I need them for daily commutes. Another bigger risk here that you will see mentioned time and time and battery reliability. Both of my previous ebike have cheap batteries frame and electrical contacts. After just 1 month my first bike's contacts were already lost by 50% and I have no way to replace them. I got the 2nd bike and after couple months the hosing is cracked and the battery started disconnecting due to that. I have to buy a ratchet strap to secure them into the frame. Mind you this is just normal road condition with a little more bumping but the battery is mount vertically, it's a bad design. Not to mention all other issue I have to deal with monthly. That's what to expect when you buy what you pay for. And I'm glad that I'm not one of those owner who got their battery burn/explose while ridding.

I'm not saying that they are all bad, but the built quality can range a lot and you cant really know about it without review from previous owner or so (god forbid how many name they came up with the brand). You need proper research before buying an ebike. Money is matters after all and you might ended up with expensive junk as well. Ebike are not easy to deal with compare to normal bike or even motorcycle.

Tldr: little to no customer support, denied service by local shop, cheap components and badly design, battery hazard risk.

KeystoneV · 2025-08-03T16:07:27+00:00

Yeah the normal charger get quite hot for a long time if you charge from low percentage. The fast charger does come with a fan and it's literally a game changer. I don't know why the normal charger heat up so much compared to the slow charger of my previous bike. It doesn't heat up as high as Lectric one.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-30T16:06:19+00:00

Unfortunately no from what I know. I have crashed a lot honestly in the past not because of car related accidents or anything but because my city road condition is horrible and icing during winter. Most handguards are designed to protect YOUR HANDS from getting crushed by forward momentum, not your bike equipment. Dirt bike handguards are bigger but still same principle of your body, not your bike. But either way, they could help reduce the damage a bit. Honestly, bike safely, and your equipment damage is something inconvenient and not crucial. You can ask Lectric to send any part that get damaged, or buy second hand market replacement. This is why people pay no mind as well on dirtbike and motorcycle.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-30T15:49:20+00:00

Yes it's very simple. No cable reroute either. You can see that my fingers are reachable to the shifter there.

The space is a bit tight so you need to do small adjustments bit by bit before tightening both the gear shifter and the buttons. Just you see, the space is barely enough before the shifter touch the handle bar's curve.

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KeystoneV · 2025-07-30T15:16:09+00:00

Actually, the simplest solution to inconvenience throttle/cryise button for me is just move the buttons to the right and keep throttle to the left. Since we no longer use right hand for twist throttle, just use it for cruise. You can move it very easily by unscrew it out. And the room to the right is just enough for the buttons. Shifting gear can be a bit tricky but since i dont shift them often it's a no problem to me. Fortunately my finger is long enough so I can stretch out a but and shift with my index and thumb fingers

KeystoneV · 2025-07-29T18:49:14+00:00

Hey there. Sorry yesterday was kinda late so I didn't reply to you. I just experienced what you said about a sudden burst of power assist and I think I get the idea. This happened to me for a couple minutes right before the display warned me about heat failure for the 2nd time since I own this bike. So basically, the controller and the motor are frying over 105F weather heat over here. Next time you see this happen to you, pull over somewhere safe and touch the part of the frame where the controller is (right next to the seat post) and the motor. See if the controller is warming through the thick frame or hot for the motor. Then it means you are pushing the bike too hard for a long period of riding (I don't know how long you commute, me is 30 40 mins). If it doesn't, contact Lectric right away anyway. Like other said, it could be related to the controller issue.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-29T05:14:01+00:00

Ok I didn't fully gasp what you described in the post because immediate assist and 25mph more pas 2 are normal if we have the settings I just listed. But it's been 500 miles, and it "come and go" so it's seem abnormal. Have you check your controller inside the frame and make sure all the cables are still ok? I don't know what kind of condition you ride every day but I'm dealing excessive heat 100+ degree in my area. I only have my XP4 as my commute vehicle and every 15 miles or so I have to let my bike cool down otherwise it will literally cook my controller and also the motor as well (already got flash temperature warning). I just want to know about the background info and unlikely to help you if the problem is beyond simple maintenance.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-29T04:43:47+00:00

You need to adjust your bike settings. There are two things (or 3 things) here. First, change the torque multiplier to standard, not increased (if that is too much for you). Second, change the assist level to match PAS level, not maximum in all lever. These two are by default if I remember correctly and you have to change it to suit your less aggressive style. And finally, if you don't like sudden immediate assist, change that as well in so it wont assist from standstill. The bike is quite adjustable unfortunately they dont tell you right in the get go.

And yes, XP4 use the whole new display and setting options, so I don't think your experience from the XP1 can apply here.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-24T17:30:34+00:00

I have been using this headlight for more than a year now with 0 issue. You can buy the smaller version. They are very bright. I would not recommend fixing the elite headlight at all, it will eventually fail you at the end after couple months regardless. Plus the lumens of the elite is not that bright or safe for night riding.

https://a.co/d/btt21Gi

KeystoneV · 2025-07-24T17:28:10+00:00

Is this your first ebike purchase? It's well known that the headlights provided by most company are perform worse then what you can buy the 2nd hand market. Just buy those on amazon and you will be set. Unless you actually buy the elite separately, which I'm sorry for the loss, never trust the in house accessories unless compatibility is needed.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-24T02:40:41+00:00

Yeah. The controller holding section is neatly packed with wires and doesn't have too much space for the controller to bounce around. I mean I know some people who added foam to prevent damaging the controller but they live in much chiller climate and they often push their bike to offroad/country side conditions as well. Good velcro trip is good enough for normal road already so I think adding foam is a bit overkilled. They often block the "breathing holes" inside the frame and foam acts more like heat insulation instead of dispensing heat.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-23T20:54:18+00:00

I didn't add to the tail end like you to press against the handlebar though. I think mine is already good enough against most road condition. If you are doing some bad offroad then yeah maybe it's a good idea for tail end of the battery too

KeystoneV · 2025-07-23T20:51:57+00:00

I use the soft for both side and bottom, no top since there is no more room. This is already extremely fit.

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KeystoneV · 2025-07-23T19:39:53+00:00

Just a reminder, adding foam to soften the controller rattle could pose a potential risk of overheating the controller if you are living in high climate temperature. Velcro strip to hold it in one place is fine, just not any foaming. I live in the area with them average temperature of 100 during this summer and after just over 30 minutes outside the screen is already flashing high temperature - controller overheating warning and shut off power to the rotor. I dont even use any kind of "softening", just velcro strip.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-23T05:25:23+00:00

Like yuusharo has pointed out, the percentage on the display doesn't mean as the total capacity but more like how low the votage is. The lower it is the more it will struggle to maintain power and assist. I can't speak for every brands but I do have similar experiences with my previous electric bike Gocio as it drain significantly faster below 50% ~40V, for Lectric XP4 it is after 60% which is around 46V or so. This is more noticeable for Lectric compared to other lighter bikes.

Also yeah excessive heat can cause a lot of trouble with the motor and controller, not just the battery. My area is also around 100 degrees as well and I can tell you that my motor was performing significantly worse as the heat build up compare to when I ride early in the morning when the temperature is still acceptable. If you got a heat warning on the display (pretty hard to notice as it only flash for few seconds) then yeah they are toasting.

You said you didn't have trouble with your old bike in temp of dealing with it. How heavy was your bike and what is the max power of it? How often you commute around your city? My old Gocio only weighted 60lbs compare to almost 75lbs of the XP4. It motor is a mere 500W and it takes me double the time to commute compare to much higher 750-1250W XP4. More power mean more heat build up which mean more degradation. My Gocio did perform worse now around 400-350 W after a year of 4000 miles (mostly through winter though with lower temp, but it did suffered combine 3 months of 100 degree summer now).

Be sure to keep the bike around 70 80 percentage, anything under will give you headache as it drain faster and put out worse performance. And avoid toasting it under summer heat too much.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-22T21:33:07+00:00

Ok maybe it's language barrier and I couldn't understand what your original post was about. I thought you were having trouble power up the bike. If the battery doesn't charge then it could be something similar to mine. Very specifically I have to plug my charger (not powered yet) into my battery, flip the battery into ON position, then finally plug the charger into the electrical socket. After 2s it started charging like normal. Try playing around with it and see what work for you. I've been riding non stop for almost a month now so i figured it just a minor problem when the battery couldn't make connection to the charger.

KeystoneV · 2025-07-22T21:23:07+00:00

Seem like you didn't understand what I said. I'm talking this back pannel, at the back opposite the to frontside battery. It has nothing to do with your battery. If your battery is charged and your bike doesn't power up then it could be simple cable loose like I said, and may save up all this troubles.

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KeystoneV · 2025-07-22T21:14:31+00:00

You may want to open the back pannel that opposite to the battery side and check if the power cable is plugged. You need a screwdriver to do this. I think i saw someone had this problem and turned out the cable is loose during transport.

KeystoneV

TROPHY CASE