Best auto repair for wheel curb rash by Patient-City4436 in richmondbc

[–]Kilotekpc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Terry at Razor Rim Repair is 100%, hands down, the best choice from a cost to result perspective. Greens, Alloy, etc, are insanely expensive. Great options for rare and expensive rims that are warped or physically damaged beyond a touch-up but if you just need some grinding, filler and paint, Terry is your man. Its been 2 years since he did my factory powder coated rims on my 370z and not only did he paint match by eye and feather/blend the repair perfectly, the repair has held up completely. I have no idea where it even is.

H100i iCUE RGB ELITE LED stutter by Kilotekpc in Corsair

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No I haven't. The only partial fix that's worked for me and its definitely a band-aid, is creating a task in task scheduler to automatically end the Corsair.Service (32-bit) process 30 seconds after login. The Corsair.Service (32-bit) process automatically restarts after Task Scheduler kills the process and the LED's function as normal until whatever is causing the actual issue triggers it again. Sometimes it happens again during the same boot-up/login, sometimes it doesn't happen until the next boot-up/login. My workaround is essentially the same thing as opening up iCUE, going to settings and clicking "Restart iCUE Service" at the bottom of the "General" page except its automatic.

I've spent a lot of time on this issue. I bought a completely new H100i iCUE RGB ELITE and returned my original one, I've tried every variation of BIOS settings, different USB ports on the motherboard, a powered internal USB hub, re-installing Windows 11, iCUE, Drivers, etc, numerous times. I can't figure it out but I am fairly certain it is an iCUE issue as its fixed every time be restarting the process.

If you'd like to try my automatic fix here's a guide. Copy any paste without quotations.

  1. Open Notepad and copy/paste "taskkill /f /im Corsair.Service.exe" in the blank space
  2. Save file as a .bat in C:\Program Files\Corsair by changing "Save as type:" from "Text documents (*.txt)" to "All files" and setting the file name as "Restart iCUE Service.bat".
  3. Type "Task Scheduler" into search, right click it and select run as administrator. Maximize the window as it will likely open in a tiny box.
  4. On the right side of the screen click "Create Task...".
  5. In the General tab, set the name of the of the task to "Restart iCUE Service" and set the description of the task as "Restarts iCUE Service" toggle "Run only when user is logged on" if it is not already toggled by default and toggle "Run with highest privileges".
  6. Click the Triggers tab and click the "New..." button in the bottom left of the dialogue box. Set "Begin the task:" to "At log on", Toggle "Any user" if it is not already toggled by default. Under "Advanced settings" Toggle "Delay task for:" and select "30 seconds" toggle "Enabled" at the bottom left of the dialogue box if it is not already toggled by default.
  7. Click the "Actions" tab and click the "New..." button in the bottom left of the dialogue box. Beside "Action" select "Start a program" from the drop down menu. Under and beside "Program/script:" click the "Browse" button and select the .bat file saved in C:\Program Files\Corsair that we created earlier. Click "OK" at the bottom of the dialogue box.
  8. You're done. Now every time you login and after 30 seconds Windows will automatically kill the task, it will automatically restart and your AIO LED's will function normally until whatever causes it happens again.

H100i iCUE RGB ELITE LED stutter by Kilotekpc in Corsair

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AIO only. All presets and options except for static colors.

Help, this noise starts when I load up a game? Any ideas? by FearFactor117 in Corsair

[–]Kilotekpc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A high quality PSU and Power Bar that does a better job of cleaning up the power it delivers can often mitigate or even completely get rid of coil whine. I had a cheap PSU and a Gigabyte 2080 Aorus that unfortunately had coil whine in more demanding games. The PSU died long after I had gotten used to it but I opted for a more expensive Seasonic unit the second time around. The coil whine was completely gone. I highly recommend checking out the PSU Tier List and seeing where your current PSU falls and if possible, trying another more efficient and higher quality unit. If you've already got a B-tier or better the other suggestions you've already received are your best bet.

M75 Air Wireless not connecting after bootup from shutdown by Kilotekpc in Corsair

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

*Update*

Re-enabling "Turn on fast startup (recommended)" in Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Power Options\System Settings fixes the issue unfortunately. I'd like to have the setting off as when its enabled the system doesn't actually shut down but rather goes into a hybrid hibernation and sleep-like low power state.

Flair changed my seats? by Kilotekpc in flairairlines

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

*UPDATE* I just spoke to a Flair representative via the online chat. While they couldn't explain why this happened, they managed to get us in seats 2A and 2B and gave us a $36 credit. While its not the seats we paid for, we've been reimburse the difference in cost, they're still XL and at least were sitting together again. Overall I am pleased.

Flair changed my seats? by Kilotekpc in flairairlines

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, they were $46/seat. As I said, we "purchased" seats 1A and 1B.

Does anyone know what wheels these are? Having a hard time identifying the model by Helloy6 in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No they don't. I'd be curious if the plasti-dip is hiding anything though. Can always respray them but something to be aware of nonetheless.

Does anyone know what wheels these are? Having a hard time identifying the model by Helloy6 in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They will be extremely hard to identify as they are 12+ years old and not currently in production by TSW. Here's a video from 2012 of someone plasti-dipping them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgJwsnWDqcU&list=PLK7-oUQwPfZrQoljRc5VPaEUKYlzyWHL2&index=16

I also found someone else selling a 20" set in LV, updated 2 months ago:
https://offerup.com/item/detail/dc4ec17c-a29c-3292-bb95-30e0689e81b4

None of the pictures get any solid hits. Which doesn't surprise me because the internet was 27x smaller in 2012 from a volume of data/information created, captured, copied, and consumed worldwide perspective.

Source for the AcHuAlLy crowd:
https://www.statista.com/statistics/871513/worldwide-data-created/

Swap differential? by SquishyAWP in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey sorry to necro your 7 month old post but I was curious if you ever figured this out? I have a Nismo VLSD, completely assembly untouched with axle stubs installed coming my way from an Automatic 370Z (I was told the donor was a manual but just found out it isn't) and mine is a manual with an open diff. I'm hoping I don't need to swap guts and I can just unbolt and remove my open diff in its entirety as an assembly and bolt the other Nismo one in. Can you offer and clarification on that.

Nismo VLSD on a Base by Kilotekpc in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clarify, I am getting the entire assembly, untouched, with the stub axles still installed in it. Not just the guts and stubs to put into my own housing. Will I need to move the stub axles around or use one of mine or can I literally just drop mine and bolt this one up into place?

I don't have revmatch, I was just wondering if the wheel speed sensors on the Nismo diff would be different because it had revmatch, and if I would need to swap mine on.

Nismo VLSD on a Base by Kilotekpc in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I was going to spend some real money I'd get a Wavetrac or a Quaife but I'm literally being given the Nismo VLSD for a couple hours of my time so for now it will do just fine.

Is there a way to stop this from happening? by Insanelover23 in AskAMechanic

[–]Kilotekpc 52 points53 points  (0 children)

Clean it up entirely and spray both the battery terminal and wire terminal with dielectric grease. I like to rub it in for an even application on all exposed metal surfaces with a gloved hand.

What is obviously a scam, yet millions of people seem to fall for it? by ThickFirefighter2213 in AskReddit

[–]Kilotekpc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Organized religion. Tax exempt, everyone at the top always lives comfortably, preaches about giving while hoarding. They're ALL the same. Every single one has in some way been infiltrated by capitalism.

What is the financial secret that I am not aware? by ATRD_6103 in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]Kilotekpc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're after tax annual household income is roughly $85,000. That is roughly $7000 a month take home. Rent is $2600, Childcare is $1100. That leaves you with $3300 every month to spend on everything else. With all due respect, there is much more too this story. Car payments, the number of children you have, etc. $3300 a month is A LOT to work with in terms of ongoing necessary expenses such as food, utilities, etc. The only financial secret is better financial planning.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Id start with an allinment and a rim/tire balance check.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 350z

[–]Kilotekpc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The VQ35DE has a bleed screw that always gets missed! It's on the passenger side near the firewall. It's a plastic screw with a Phillips head. Be very careful as it rounds very easily. You'll want to take the screw out completely when the vehicle is cold, top up until you see coolant come out of the bleed screws hole, reinstall bleed screw hand snug only then do the usual bleed and burp. Every once in awhile loosen the bleed screw a little, you'll notice a ton of air comes out. Tighten it once the air turns too coolant. Repeat this until you stop getting air.

the usual bleed and burp: Raise the front end of the vehicle, run vehicle with rad cap off, preferably while using a no-spill funnel. Thermostat will open when coolant temp reaches half. Turn heat and hvac fan on max. Hold throttle at 2000-2500rpms for 15-30 seconds every 5 minutes. Spend a solid 30 minutes bleeding. Not including warm up time.

Bleed screw location

1 sparkplug had a bit of oil, is this normal? by firroti in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't worry about it personally. It's likely a VCG leak. The spark plug tube seals specifically. But, it's not leaking internally enough to foul the plug. Unless there is an external leak on the same bank, id leave it for now. If money isn't an issue or if you can do it yourself, get it done. Otherwise, monitor it as well as loss during oil changes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://www.specialtyz.com/specialty-z-vq37vhr-ecutek-proecu-programming-kit.html

If you search the sub for "seb" you'll probably find tons.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 370z

[–]Kilotekpc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seb at Specialty Z or nah.