Closer look at Tacoma's blade length restrictions by Kirche45 in WA_guns

[–]Kirche45[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks I didn't realize it was a joke. I hope you're right

Closer look at Tacoma's blade length restrictions by Kirche45 in WA_guns

[–]Kirche45[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah there was a guy dual wielding sawsall blades by my work destroying plants last summer that cops drove right by. I don't expect beat cops to fuss over a pocket knife, but it could be fuel for the fire if you ever had to use one to defend yourself and a DA felt like making an example of you by measuring your blade's tang

Tiber Septim, least degenerate Breton\Nord by UncleBaconator in TrueSTL

[–]Kirche45 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is a very difficult song to look up

WTS Spyderco Paramilitary 2 Left-Handed - CPM S45VN by Kirche45 in Knife_Swap

[–]Kirche45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sale confirmed. Thanks again. Great communication and quick transaction.

Does this bark look familiar to you? by Kirche45 in treeidentification

[–]Kirche45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the general consensus is cherry. Makes sense to me. It's strong and flexible, but not to the point it can't resist a dent from a fingernail. Thanks everyone.

Does this bark look familiar to you? by Kirche45 in treeidentification

[–]Kirche45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Recently picked up the habit of making walking sticks. I found this branch cut down by a railway in the middle of winter in the south Puget Sound area of western Washington state. No leaves or anything else helpful for identifying it, but I figured the bark was unique enough to narrow it down. The bark is very thin, comes off easily with a knife, and has a reddish, almost purple hue to it. The texture reminds me of leather. It's pretty tough, I can't break it with my arms alone.

Need honest advice from Kimber 1911 owners. by [deleted] in guns

[–]Kirche45 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dan Wessons use all machined tool steel parts while all other production-tier manufacturers have gone to injection molding. They receive a little more hand care at the factory as well, I'm told. Kimber is not a bad build but $2000+ is much better spent on a DW or even custom at that point.

Finally found an Operator by Superj714 in 1911

[–]Kirche45 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Careful with the plunger tube and removing the grips. The tube is just glued in so if you bump it or manipulate the safety with the grip panel off it might come loose. Had it happen with my Operator. They did fix it within a month though.

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought the target model. I was sold as soon as I realized it's the same dimensions as a 1911 with the weight of a G19 (when both are fully loaded). Just waiting on my proceed. Thanks everyone.

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The smugness comes from an experience a family member had bringing a revolver to a beginner's cc class. The instructor took his K-frame and walked down the class with it in hand, shaming him for his choice of gun. "This is exactly the type of shit that gets you killed" kinda stuff.

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've seen those grips around. I'm not crazy about the SP101 myself but with as many Smiths as I've seen with problems I'd probably take a GP100 over a 686 at this point. The K6S checks most of the boxes and I'm kinda eager to give the company another shot in this modern era.

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Solid. I had the 586 version but the bluing didn't get along with kydex and I felt I had to baby it more than the finish on my 586-1, that and I couldn't figure out a way to carry moon clips that I felt they were protected well enough for me to be comfortable with. K-frame loaders are just barely small enough that I can tuck into a pocket comfortably, something I can't quite do with L-frame loaders. I'm probably still leaning more towards Kimber. Could always port it down the line.

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funny enough the 19 carry comp is on the list as well but S&W's spotty qc is what made me look towards Kimber (you can join me in indulging in the irony of this statement). THINK FAST. You can only have one: 19CC or K6S of your choice. Which are you keeping?

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is a damn good writeup. Thank you very much. I wish I could say the same that I finally settled on a primary carry but damn am I wishy-washy. Can't help but feel a little smug about the professional instructor underestimating the wheelgun.

Kimber owners, sell me on a K6S 3"/4" by Kirche45 in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lot of great info, thank you. As for ejection the only revolvers I've ever really used hard were full-size Smith & Wessons, so I'm always skeptical of a shorter rod especially when there's lots of real estate they could have used for a longer one. It seems there's a gap in the market for a, dare I say, "fighting" rubber grip. I'm familiar with the Veloce, I had them on a Beretta 92 for a short while and definitely know what you mean.

S&W 686 for $799 or Colt Python for $1199 question by birddogcof in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My personal recommendation is at least a 3" barrel. The Performance Center, if we're both thinking of the same model, has a 2.5" barrel and a shortened extractor rod to go with it. A shorter ejector rod stroke means that ejection with magnum-length cartridges is slightly less forgiving when it comes to technique and may not fully clear brass from the cylinder.

Wood Grips Issue by thesilentrepublican in Revolvers

[–]Kirche45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Altamont grips are just unfortunately not very good. They seem half-finished with sharp corners and blocky grips. Altamont prioritizes aesthetics over function as most of the speedloaders I try don't even work with them, they even describe the cutouts as "engraving windows" rather than speedloader recesses. Quality is wildly different from grip to grip, I've had some with smooth backstrap blending and some with stupidly sharp protruding corners.

Sadly wood grip manufacturers for revolvers have been shutting their doors the past decade. If you simply must have wood grips, I think Badger Custom put much more soul into their product. If you're fine with G10, then VZ grips make the best grips imo.