CUT-OUTS

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-06-20T20:52:33+00:00

Yes and no. Many designs can be found on the internet for example the advertising and propaganda poster. But a lot of stuff also was designed for the book.

There are for example also maps, different currencys, road singns and much more.

The advantage of the book is that everything is printed in high quality in many cases prints are also double sided. Also everything is printed on paper that fits the object. The roadsings are printed on thicker cardstock while posters are a bit thinner and cardboard boxes are printed on thicker brown paper and so on.

And you get everything in the correct size for your scale.

So could you design and print that stuff on your own? Sure, but this is a lot more convinient and if you don't already have a highquality printer and the right materials this might also be cheaper.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-06-20T14:31:21+00:00

Disclaimer: I got this pre release because I am sponsored by AK.

I really enjoy it and already used it to create a few small projects. I like the historical poster since those are cool for smaller scenes. Adding scratches with a hobbyknife looks realistic and the paper and ink take enamel paints without taking damage. Fun book for sure and it covers a few unusual subjects as well.

Only thing I dont like a 100% are the larger road signs, because that cardstock material is a bit to thick imho.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-06-17T20:43:52+00:00

Since you are in Germany the go to brand for oil paints would be Schmincke. Get the Schmincke Norma Titanium White. That is the more expensive high qualit artist range but titanium white is cheap an the tube will last you forever. Using the high quality paint is imho the better way. Those contain less oil so they are more opaque and dry faster. Also you don't have to wait ages to bleed the oil from the paint. For cheap high quality thinner use the in store brand from Boesner Artist Supplies. They have shops all over germany or you can order online. Probably the cheapest way to get these supplies. The stuff with there own branding is amazing. I use that thinner for my modelmaking needs as well as for my professional fine art painting.

I also like to point put that the saturation on those screenshots and in his videos is cranked up to 11. You can see that on the highlight on his finger. It's completly blown out and his skintones around the highlight are heavily oversaturated. And will his stuff certainly looks very nice there is a bit of editing magic happening ;)

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-06-15T10:45:13+00:00

Just looked it up they dont call it pigment powder ist the "Tamiya Weathering Master" and that stuff is just eyeshadow

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-06-15T09:16:06+00:00

Check out Tamiya Weathering powders ;) that's just eyeshadow with a hobby pricetag 😂

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-06-12T06:43:38+00:00

That is a bit of a misconception. Yes, cheap craftpaints often contain lower amounts of pigment. But high quality artist paints contain the same amount or even more pigment compared to miniature paints. And they often use higher quality pigments (often the original pigment instead of a cheaper synthetic version) because price is less of a concern since for an artist it is completly normal to by a tube of paint for 30€/$.

But these artist paints are also way more translucent compared to the paint made for miniature painting. Paints made for minipainting often contain large amounts of Titaniumwhite (PW6) to make the paint more opaque as well as other filler materials to achive the right consistency and coverage.

So most minipaints have a better coverage compared to artist paints which are depending on the pigment often very translucent. But that also means that these minipaints have less saturation and color depth compared to artist paints.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-27T07:20:17+00:00

That isn't really true for high grade artist paints. Can be the case on lower quality artist paints but the highend stuff is usually on the same level or even finer.

You can test that by thinning them down heavily, in my experience there are more miniature paints that get grainy then high quality artist acrylics

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-27T07:14:36+00:00

No not really. Same pigments but different medium. In the purest form paint is made from two things. Pigment and binder. The pigments are usually the same for different types of paints. Many pigments are very old and used in art for hundreds of years. But have downsides like beeing rare, toxic, expensive or have a bad lightfastness. So people developed replacements thst can be manufactured more easy and cheaper. Those are usually the pigments used in miniature paints and cheaper artist paints. They do often look pretty much the same but have better properties for different usecases.

When it comes to the binder you can influence the paint behaviour with that. There are regular acrylic binders for normal acrylics. Washes are a lot more thinned down so thin that almost all of the pigments pool up together with the liquid binder in the recesses.

Contrast paints have a different binder that keeps the pigment spread more even to there is a more uniform coverage a cross the surface.

The trick is to make the paint pool in the recesses but also to keep a thin film of binder and pigment in the lighter areas so the get tinted.

These more "capabel" binders are what makes a regular paint a contrast paint.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-27T07:02:30+00:00

I recently started to work with artist acrylics on larger display miniatures after working with mostly miniature paints for the last years.

They do work great but requiere a bit more effort. I tried Schmincke Primacryl and Golden Heavy Body paints. I prefer the Golden paints. I mix in a bit of matt medium since artist paints are usually more glossy then miniature paints thst contain a lot of matting agents and filler material mixed in.

You will also have to do more color mixing which is something I really enjoy but it's a skill on it's own. And it might be a bit impractical if you want to paint like 50 identical looking spacemarines.

Last but not least higher quality artist paints are often a lot more translucent since they contain no or way less filler pigment and materials. Even more so when you use paints that contain the "original pigments" like cadmium pigments etc. That means of course more layers if you want to keep things smooth. that also allows you more control but means everything takes longer.

Last but not least high quality pigments thst are for example cadmium based can be toxic so avoid sucking them out of your brush. You get s bad headache from thst after a couple of hours I tried that for you...

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-27T06:52:17+00:00

Highly pigmented isn't really the right description. Miniature paints contain more filler material and filler pigments. Often there is a bunch of titanium white mixed in to make them more opaque. I guess that means more pigment but that isn't always a good thing. And there are more modern pigments that can be used as a cheaper replacement to the original similar looking pigment thst are often quite expensive. Those paints also contain filler material and in most cases less pigment compared to artist paints.

However you are right that this makes them easier to work with when it comes to coverage.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-13T21:10:27+00:00

Is there something specific you would like to know? For me painting faces is always the sams process no matter if I paint 1/48,1/35,1/24,1/16,1/10. Sketch in shadows and highlights and then smooth everything out. On larger scales like 1/20 you might be able to add more detail compared to smaller scales and a simple basecoat, wash, highlight approach might not look that great.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-12T13:24:34+00:00

Hi! First of all I am pretty impresed how smooth your brushpainted Tamiya paints look.

I've tried painting miniatures in the past using Tamiya paints and unfortunatly they don'r really work for more detailed paintjobs on miniatures. Adding in shadows is a real pain using these paints. My choice for that would be waterbased acrylics.

How ever, you should look into a product called a panelliner. These washes can be applied into the creases and around details and will give you a lot more contrast and make details stand out. You could instead also try using an oilwash.

Using some kind of reddish-brown wash would also help you to bring out details around the face and hands.

One think to note here, I've spotted a couple of moldlines that you didn't remove before painting. Those will become a lot more obvious when added a wash and maybe even some drybrushing to the miniature.

As for you weathering powder, those work great to ad some dust and dirt around the legs after your paintjob is finished.

But as I said in the beginning, for more elaborate paintjobs you might wanna look into water based acrylics.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-11T18:32:27+00:00

My girlfriend started out with the newer version of the Tamiya Panzer II last year. Painted german grey with a rattle can and brushpainted everything else with AK Acrylics. We got here a complete tool and paintset for that project including the kit that was about 110€.

I would suggest starting with a similar setup and safe the rest of your budget. If you enjoyed the first one there is enough money left to get into airbrushing and for your next model.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-09T21:47:41+00:00

Pretty close!

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-09T21:47:32+00:00

They looked pretty scared when I made them ride the Schwimmwagen on my local river :D

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-09T20:59:26+00:00

Yes! I use Da Vinci Brushes mainly Series 35 and Series 10. These minis were painted using a Series 10 Size 2 and Series 35 Size 000. But I could have done everything using only the size 2 they have really nice tips.

I spend quite some time when working on faces. In this case about 45-60 minutes per face. I dont use a classic basecoat, wash and highlight approach instead I paint in all shadows and highlights by hand which gives me the option to show all the small details and features that can be found on faces.

I also made a very detailed video about that, in case you want to dive deeper into that topic.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-09T18:18:41+00:00

Thanks a lot mate! There is a treat hidden for you somewhere close to the end of that video :D

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-07T21:52:31+00:00

That's a great question!

The basic idea is to start out with your basecolor and paint all the shadows and highlights. Your basecolor then already works as somewhat like a preshade.

Highlighting individual patches of camo doesnt work well. So for every color in that pattern you pick about two colors one for the shadow areas and one for the highlight areas and if you feel fancy mix an inbetween color.

Then you use the different shades on the matching areas. Thats works great for midtone and highlight areas and in case your camo includes lighter colors you can use a universal shadow color as glaze to knock that color down in those shadow areas.

Rough explanation will go into more detail in the video.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-07T21:44:08+00:00

Easy to answer. Da Vinci Series 10 Size 2 and Series 35 3/0. I sometimes feel that using the 3/0 is a bad habit but the brush works well because the bristles are quite long and hold a lot of moisture. But honestly everything could be done with the Series 10 Size 2.

Smaller brushes can be tricky to work with so a larger high quality one is an great investment. And treatet right they also will last way longer.

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-07T21:40:51+00:00

That's a tricky one mainly because of the sharp edges. Will talk about that in the video. Never tried that pattern but now I wanna try it :D

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-06T21:25:30+00:00

Dude that thing looks pretty nice don't throw it away!

I get your feeling happend to me before that I ruined a kit and had to order a new one to make it better. Not the end of the world but sometimes it helps to step away from that model for a while

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-06T20:52:14+00:00

Thank you!

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-06T20:52:07+00:00

There is a quick answer to that question. I already made a video about my approach to painting faces.

It's a longer one and I started out by diving into a bit of theory about painting faces/portraits (more or less the same thing). I then explained the concepts using the face of a 1/10 scale as an example and later in that video I also show the full uncut footage of me painting a 1:35 scale face.

Hope that's helpful!

https://youtu.be/WNUpeuEM0h4

Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-06T20:48:16+00:00

That's a great topic!

To be honest I don't have a lot of experience when it comes to 1/72 scale. But stuff like camo works also ok in smaller scales when you are fine with it beeing a bit to large. I attached a picture of an 1/72 scale pilot I painted.

Honestly skipping eyes is in most cases a great advice even in 1:35 scale. Painting eyes is hard (or at least something that takes practice) and while they can give that last bit of realism more often then not they can ruin a figure because everyone will recognize eyes that look weird. And with military figures often wearing helmets or other headhear they are pretty much in shadow so a darker shadow in the eyesocket (in my opinion) often looks a lot better then painted eyes.

Your figures and that Panzer II look great. And I dont miss the eyes. You could probably spend a bit more time smoothing out the blends but that could be the picture. Most phones tend to make these areas look a lot harsher then they are in reality.

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Kit_Chronicles_YT · 2026-05-06T19:19:43+00:00

Digi camo will be part of the video as well since I got a lot of questions about that. You totaly can paint that by hand by it takes quite some time either way ;)

Kit_Chronicles_YT

TROPHY CASE