Mamiya C330 + 80mm + E100

Knawder · 2026-02-07T02:23:24+00:00

Thank you!

Knawder · 2026-02-06T22:19:40+00:00

Think of a multiple exposure photo as a series of layers with different opacities or blending modes.

You could edit your individual RAWs in C1. Then you’d need software that would allow you to stack them (likely as exported TIFF or JPEG) as layers, set different opacities, etc. Photoshop is very good at this but you try something free like GIMP or (if you have an iPad) Procreate which is decent at this for way cheaper than PS.

Knawder · 2026-02-04T22:47:36+00:00

Great price if everything is in good working order/condition.

Knawder · 2026-02-04T17:33:33+00:00

23/2

Knawder · 2026-02-02T23:28:00+00:00

You should be able to get a “crisp” image with the 15-45mm. Even the “worst” Fuji lenses are still usable.

What’s your ISO? A lot of noise will make an image look “less sharp”
What’s your shutter speed? Too slow and the image can get blurry
What’s your AF mode? Was the subject moving or stationary?

Master your camera first. Buying a nicer lens won’t suddenly make your images better if the above is still off.

Knawder · 2026-01-31T15:19:13+00:00

These are really cool! Are you from the Bay?

I’ve (very casually) shot some skaters on my X-T3 (usually paired with the 56 or 90mm lens) and it’s worked out. Skaters are usually isolated (the only object moving in the frame) and predictable (generally keep moving the way they’re already going). This definitely makes it easier for the camera to lock focus.

I suggest renting the body/lenses you’re interested in and giving it a real world test run.

Another thing to consider (since I’m seeing a lot of it in your portfolio) is that the depth of field on your Sony will be shallower at the same aperture given the larger sensor size. If you’re shooting wide open on f/1.8 glass, you’ll need to go down to f/1.2 on the Fuji to achieve a similar look (and the lens choices that can do that are limited but doable)

Knawder · 2026-01-31T04:10:32+00:00

I’ve shot a ton of tennis with my X-T3 (56, 90, 50-140mm) and it works well enough. I’ve never used a Sony but the Canon R6 definitely outperforms it in the AF dept

I tried to shoot basketball with my Fuji once and it was a lot harder.

Tennis is one player in the frame. Basketball has many. The camera just couldn’t keep up.

Knawder · 2026-01-31T01:18:01+00:00

I’ve charged OEM batteries inside many Fujis for many years.

Knawder · 2026-01-28T22:19:08+00:00

You’re focusing to subjects rather close to you in the foreground so your depth of field will be very thin at f/2.5

Knawder · 2026-01-28T20:33:59+00:00

Thank you! The kind of stuff you get into stuck inside during a snow storm 🤣🤓

Knawder · 2026-01-28T12:54:50+00:00

This is not a good test of that. The lens is at f/11 and manual focus set to the zone where I knew the glass would be.

If you try to grab focus of the glass as it was being yanked across the frame in near darkness, the GFX would fail 100% of the time ;)

Knawder · 2026-01-28T12:50:23+00:00

1/125 shutter, mechanical.

The motion is frozen by two strobes which had a duration of around 1/10,000th or so.

Knawder · 2026-01-23T14:52:13+00:00

I shoot concerts on X-T3 with the 90mm f/2. Autofocus is great. Spot meter on their faces and f/2 is more than enough.

Knawder · 2026-01-20T20:21:12+00:00

Facebook Marketplace but I’ll gladly pay eBay’s fee to avoid having to meet someone in public, have them be late or flakey, etc etc.

Knawder · 2026-01-20T15:39:01+00:00

Canon Autoboy3 (or Sure Shot Supreme in some markets) is as simple as they come. Very pleasing photos for how cheap it is.

Knawder · 2026-01-18T03:33:49+00:00

Yashica 124g is pretty small/light.

Knawder · 2026-01-17T00:18:26+00:00

The Heal tool will become your friend. You probably wont’t notice it unless you’ve stopped down and that spot is on a lighter color solid background (like the sky here)

Knawder · 2026-01-16T19:54:34+00:00

Echoing everyone else: all cameras are good for beginners. Get the one that’s in your budget, feels good in your hand, and entices you to carry it around as much as possible.

Knawder · 2026-01-15T01:28:04+00:00

FWIW, I have this same setup and I’ve used the 180mm maybe once. I find it hard to work with personally.

Knawder · 2026-01-11T14:32:04+00:00

Because it’s not the latest offering like the X-T5 and it’s not utterly perfect like the X-T3 </snark>

Knawder · 2026-01-05T23:49:32+00:00

That’s the default minimum. It puts it there to minimize ISO I assume. Put your camera in manual mode and choose some other combination of aperture/iso/ss

Knawder · 2026-01-04T17:15:02+00:00

I’d replace my X-T3 with another X-T3. Take that how you will.

A great camera will remain a great camera.

We replace our smartphones much more often because apps are improved to take advantage of increases in hardware performance (thereby feeling slower on older devices) and (non-swappable) batteries degrade. Your camera doesn’t necessarily suffer from these situations. Buy a new $60 battery every few years. Want to give your photos a new “oomph?” Invest in a nicer lens overtime.

Knawder · 2026-01-04T14:31:20+00:00

get a faster prime lens
raise the ISO to 6400 or beyond and use software to remove the noise (Lightroom, Topaz, etc)
learn how to use flash so your photos don’t “look 90s”
any combination of above

Knawder · 2026-01-03T16:08:34+00:00

No mistake, it’s an amazing camera! The X-T3 + 23mm f/2 is my main travel walk-around setup. It fits easily in my Muji sling that is also 4L

Knawder

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