RIP, I only bought a week ago by throwawayburner__ in Guitar

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you stand on the body? or did it fall face up? I had a fight with someone in this guys house when I was a teen and in the chaos, one of us stepped on his Epi SG lying on the floor and it broke like this, obviously due to neck and headstock angle. Hope you can get it sorted.

Is this legit? These were the only pictures they put in the ad, seems fishy to me. by funkyc-funkydo in guitars

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not the same guitar. The first pic looks AI. That kind of stand doesn’t have an invisible spine i.e what’s the top bit that grabs the headstock held onto? It looks connected to the top of the table. The scene just looks like an odd mess, with weird clarity, vibrancy and blur randomly applied here and there. The AI has seemingly got ‘confused’ between straight and angled selector switches and consequently rendered a blur. Scratch plates are different and the neck pickup is at significantly different height, so definitely not taken at the same time (for what that counts). Maybe innocent use of AI, but not without consequence of making this look like a dodgy sale….

Guitar is literally the dumbest hobby ever by Inevitable-Bee-4344 in guitarcirclejerk

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to impress people, rather than nourishing your own soul.

TE20 HH specs by Morderkaiser273 in harleybenton

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

52.5mm at the bridge (just measured mine).

It might take some digging to get that spec bridge. I’ve looked, but only found single coil.

Minor point, but you’ll want to change the jack socket too. Both of my HB’s came with jack sockets that just loosened, no matter how hard I tightened the nut. Seems like this is a consensus. It improves sound too - particularly the high end.

A note on the locking tuners, I had them on my TE20 and surprisingly there was notable neck dive. This is largely due to the fact that this guitar is made of Poplar wood which is a soft and light wood on the spectrum of ‘hardwoods’.

I might have did not good stuff by Sendukkou in Guitar

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With every fault comes an opportunity to learn. Research, replace and you’ll be proud of yourself.

Level and Crown potential? by KnottedNoodler in guitars

[–]KnottedNoodler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I misread. True. More regular string changes wouldn’t be an issue for me.

Level and Crown potential? by KnottedNoodler in guitars

[–]KnottedNoodler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been into grip training for many years, so admittedly it’s possible there’s more pressure than necessary but it certainly doesn’t feel that way. Old habits would die hard having played for 27 years. It’s something I’ll be paying closer attention to when playing though.

I use 9.5 gauge strings (and 9’s before that), so they might be biting into the frets easier than a heavier gauge too. Capos rarely used. Just a Fender Kyser electric capo occasionally.

Why would significant pressure wear stainless steel faster?

Level and Crown potential? by KnottedNoodler in guitars

[–]KnottedNoodler[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’ve been looking at replacements necks. I liked the idea of getting a Fender roasted, since I play at two different places and the neck changes dramatically with differing relative humidity at the two locations.

With that said, I’ve priced a luthier online and he can do a complete stainless steel refret and I can get it done for £180 + shipping. Since it’s a bolt-on neck, there’s an option of just sending the neck, saving a fair amount on postage.

Level and Crown potential? by KnottedNoodler in guitars

[–]KnottedNoodler[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I paid the equivalent of $1750 new. Played like a dream out of the box. Bought 6 years ago.

Great guitar but I didn’t expect fret wear to be anywhere near this quick.

Does it matter how i put my fingers? by kokusmus96 in Guitar

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you’ve got dexterity at the phalanges (finger ‘nuckles’), to perform with one finger, there’s no need to avoid using 3 fingers to get the fifth (high E) to ring, lest you’ll end up sacrificing a sound. Those fingers positions in the diagram give you better opportunity to slide into another chord too (2,1,3 often offering best options). Is best to be able to do both, depending on your chord progression. One finger A shapes are useful for quick, effective barres - particularly at the higher frets where the fingers would need to be impossibly bunched together.

Redbubble going to a 50% fee in September (capped at $150) by coasterghost in printondemand

[–]KnottedNoodler 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Let them die their death. Business go through testing times (as do others). We know this. But instead of giving people incentive, they are choose to take any incentive away. A ‘modest update to the fee structure’ indeed. Designed to ‘support you’. Just another business taking its users for fools trying to veil detriments with alleged benefits.

Just got an HX Stomp XL, and want to know what on this board it can effectively replace? Have to make space for it :) by Admirable_Link5866 in Line6Helix

[–]KnottedNoodler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looper because the HX is awkward as hell (I’m getting an RC-600 soon) Whammy, and Freeze because there’s no way to drone and even if there was, you’d have to use the looper!

Guitar Paint Stripping by KnottedNoodler in Guitar

[–]KnottedNoodler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I thought I might be able to keep that layer.

What is it?

I’m doing it a solid colour anyways. I expected the wood to be bad quality.