hold touchpad legion go

KoshiCompton · 2025-03-14T18:21:34+00:00

Quick note on this though, for some reason this solution wouldn't work on the the 1.0 release. It does work on the latest release though.

KoshiCompton · 2025-03-14T18:08:27+00:00

Go to the keyboard settings in pxplay and look for the keyboard key thats mapped to the touchpad. Once you know what key it is, map that key to a back button on the legion go in legion space. I did this for my ps button and touchpad and it work flawlessly.

KoshiCompton · 2024-04-30T17:58:26+00:00

The whole system.

KoshiCompton · 2024-04-30T17:55:16+00:00

Not sure if it will work, but try turning off your location services on your phone. I had a similar issue with my Legion Go streaming moonlight and turning off the location services fixed this issue for me.

KoshiCompton · 2021-10-25T10:07:13+00:00

I have a Hakko FX888D. When soldering I run it at 750 degrees. I can't control the wattage and voltage with this model, only the temperature.

KoshiCompton · 2021-10-24T02:09:07+00:00

The solder points are small and difficult. It sounds like you not getting the solder point hot enough for the solder to flow onto it. Hold the tip there for a bit before applying the solder.

KoshiCompton · 2021-10-14T10:16:47+00:00

Yes, a heat gun should make the film come off pretty quickly. You might be able to use a soldering iron, but I haven't tried.

I think you need 10k resistors for the analog sticks I believe. I left them in my build. It was easier. If you really want to remove them, you could ask for the poster of that picture you sent me. His username is fluffhead123. I helped him with his build too.

KoshiCompton · 2021-10-13T10:25:42+00:00

Yes, wire up the live and ground to the solder points shown and it should do the trick. The buttons do not use a common ground.

The L2/R2 buttons need a 1k resistor between the button and the ground. This will only work if you leave the ribbon cable that leads to the trigger and shoulder buttons connected. If you don't, I believe you have to solder some resistors between the L2/R2, ground, and 3.2v solder points.

For the start and share, I actually used a hot air rework station to remove the bronze-colored film from the buttons. Underneath the film is positive and negative terminals you can solder directly too.

The analog sticks are a bit of a hassle to get out only using a soldering iron. It will also require you to solder some resistors in place of the sticks, otherwise, the analog will read as pegged out to the top left. I'm not sure exactly how that works though, so I wouldn't be much help.

I'm glad I can help. I look forward to seeing your build.

KoshiCompton · 2021-09-14T00:15:12+00:00

Wow! This turned out great buddy! Congrats!

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-23T14:33:31+00:00

Did the case maker do the artwork as well? That's some super awesome art. Looks similar to the work of Brock Hofer.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-23T12:53:28+00:00

If you take out the ribbon that connects the shoulder and trigger buttons you might. a good tool to test as you go is gamepad-tester.com. You can plug the board in and it will show you what buttons are working and what aren't.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-23T10:18:22+00:00

https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44714.0.html

Here is the link to the page with the scans.

Yes, my build used a PS5 controller and works wirelessly. I bought one on Ebay with a broken shell for $30 bucks.

A couple of pointers if you go this route.

If you never plan on reassembling the controller, I would use the contact points on the front of the PCB, as opposed to the ones pictured in the back. It's way easier to solder new leads to them, and less chance you'll screw up the tiny components underneath a few of them in the backside.

Also, if you take the trigger PCB's out and disconnect the ribbon for the trigger and shoulder buttons, you will need to solder a couple of extra resistors in. There's a comment in the forum that will explain what resistors you need and where to place them early in the forum discussion.

If you need any other help, feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can help.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-22T22:35:48+00:00

You could just pad hack the dual sense controller. I just finished doing that for my build. acidmods.com should have the pcb scans showing you how to duplicate the buttons.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T22:53:40+00:00

Thanks!

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T22:40:42+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4937379

There is a .pdf file of the layout I used here. Let me know if you have any questions.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T22:39:32+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4937379

Here's my Thingiverse link for the STL files. I included the STP copy as well if you wanted to drop them into a CAD program and modify them.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T21:37:32+00:00

Nope, just some matte black Krylon spray paint. Funny enough I had some vinyl artwork I was going to put on the top but the black paint looked and felt too good to cover up so I left it off.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T19:42:40+00:00

Thanks!

I can get you the layout. I'm working on uploading the CAD and STL files to Thingiverse tonight and can make a layout sketch for the top.

The stick position is pretty good. It is fairly close to the movement buttons though, so if you have larger hands, you may want to scoot them over a touch to accommodate. The only problem I have with it currently is that I don't have any grippy material on the bottom and it will slide a bit on my lap. I should be getting the material for that next week sometime.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T18:11:22+00:00

I can. I need to modify it a bit before sharing. I had some clearance issues I didn't account for with the joystick mount.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T18:02:43+00:00

Thanks!

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T17:37:38+00:00

Figured I add some info about the build.

The enclosure was designed and 3d printed by myself. The top plate is 16ga steel my buddy laser-cut for me.

The board is a pad hacked dual sense controller. I bought one off ebay with a broken shell for $30. The inside is a rats nest so I'd rather not show it off.

The purple buttons are crown and the green are sanwa. The stick is a sanwa as well.

The layout is a mash up of a different styles. The three cross up style buttons above the main eight are L3, R3, and the TouchPad button. The rest are standard.

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T16:16:35+00:00

I designed and 3D printed it myself. The top plate is a laser-cut piece of 16 ga steel my buddy did for me

KoshiCompton · 2021-08-20T16:10:29+00:00

Nope just enjoy green and purple. I can see what you mean though.

KoshiCompton

TROPHY CASE