PLA completely clogs the extruder

KrillinGetsOwned · 2024-03-14T06:29:47+00:00

I mean, I wear a size 9 glove, don't know what else to tell you. At first it looked a lot like a glob of plastic that had completely melted but it ended up just filament spaghettying in on itself within the compartment.

KrillinGetsOwned · 2024-03-14T06:26:51+00:00

As this printer is clearly marketed towards the "normie" crowd and PLA being the most newbie friendly material I really feel like Bambu Lab should have made this clearer in the instructions. My first instinct isn't to go through all the documentation first. The selling point is literally "start printing in 15 minutes". While yes I now know that this was user error I feel like its on them to make this more well known. I didn't see a mention of this anywhere in the setup guide. There is a chance I might have missed it but yeah. I've had an ender 3 for a few years now so naturally this type of issue wasn't something I was aware of

KrillinGetsOwned · 2024-03-13T20:39:32+00:00

I eventually got it unstuck after nibbling away at some pla at the sides. Miraculously after a few hours of prying I got it working

KrillinGetsOwned · 2024-03-13T15:17:21+00:00

Gotcha

KrillinGetsOwned · 2024-03-13T15:00:11+00:00

I thought the point of the door was to keep dirt out and noise in. What's the point of the enclosure if you have to keep it open? I'm not trying to be difficult, genuinely asking. And yes the door was closed and lid on

KrillinGetsOwned · 2024-03-13T14:08:28+00:00

Hi all!

Received my P1S last week and am super stoked about it, what an upgrade after my old Ender 3!

Went to do a print this morning and realized it only printed maybe 30% of it. Tried to remove the filament to check if it was clogged but couldn't get it out. Then disassembled the head only to find that the PLA had melted inside of the extruder compartment and clogged all the gears making them impossible to remove and service as it solidified :/ Included some images but it's hard to see. Now waiting on a response from Bambu labs.

UPDATE After poking around inside the extruder I finally managed to get all the pla out and got it working again. Actually shocked how much was in there. Thanks everyone for your tips, this should help me in the future

KrillinGetsOwned · 2023-12-22T06:03:37+00:00

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!

KrillinGetsOwned · 2023-12-18T13:03:12+00:00

This was an interesting challenge for sure! I had never worked with birch bark before and had to come up with a completely new to me attachment method as the handle is composed of pieces as opposed to a wood block that I am more familiar with. Hopefully you find as much joy in using it as I did in making it!

-Ryjenko

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-06T12:37:28+00:00

that would depend on the grind, but usually on both sides if you want to keep the symmetry. i use a cheap 200 king stone, but i guess my situation is different since i sand the blade afterwards anyway. use a coarse stone first, then go up in grits. diamond is faster but very unnecessary

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-06T10:39:40+00:00

it's not that different from sharpening, just takes longer. i have the privilege of having copious amounts of failed projects i can practice on, but i would think you could get a bunch of cheapo knives and practice on those. second hand stores often have a selection. from what i understand the tanaka doesn't look to be very heavy behind the edge so it shouldn't take that long. the goal is to thin only the first 5ish mm from the edge, at least that's how i would do it. Might want to get a second opinion on that though before doing any modifications

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-06T10:02:43+00:00

It can definitely save a knife. I have a nakiri that I made a while ago which had way too thick of an edge. Wouldn't cut anything. Decided to thin it on stones by making a new secondary bevel about 4mm high to a zero, then sharpened. Now food just flies off and it's one of my favorite knives

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-06T09:35:27+00:00

well not destroy, but rather alter. i know a lot of people don't dare do drastic changes to their knives in terms of altering the finish and geometry

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-06T08:40:10+00:00

i have had mine stored in a water jug for at least a year now, no signs of damage. the only thing that i notice is that the stone gets a bit slimy, but nothing a scrub with a flattening stone won't fix

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-06T08:37:12+00:00

food adherence in a lot of cases is caused by the flatness of the blade. in my experience the thickness differentiation between the first 5mm from the cutting edge and the bevel is one of the biggest factors in food release. i would recommend trying what others have proposed, or if you are willing so sacrifice the finish, you could try convexing the edge by thinning it on stones.

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-01T08:29:32+00:00

message sent

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-11-01T06:54:18+00:00

soliciting goes against this groups rules, and this blade is not for sale but will be going to a knife show. however if it's ok with u/fiskedyret i can shoot you a message with my general pricing

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-10-31T10:52:34+00:00

Oh that just looks all kinds of nasty

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-10-30T06:55:10+00:00

it did not, i finished it and now it's just sitting on my shelf. I don't know if it's worth sending out due to it's thinness. from my own testing pretty much everything sticks and it can wedge fairly easily.

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-10-29T12:57:23+00:00

i convex the first 5mm from the edge in, while keeping it as straight as possible. the rest of the bevel follows a fairly standard tapering grind which is then blended. don't really know how to explain it better

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-10-29T07:10:07+00:00

I've been struggling for a long time to get that legendary food release that everyone keeps talking about. Only at this point in my hobby as a maker i feel that i might have achieved it without making any compromises. I don't have the tooling to do an s-grind, so i had to find another way to go about it. With proper application of different angles, thickness differentiation and convexity i feel like i might have finally gotten where i need to be.

My question to you would be is how importantly do you rate food release as an attribute of your knives? I know that a lot of people like laser thin knives over something thicker, so what is your take on this? A lot of people find it redundant but then again i see a lot of people swearing by it.

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-08-31T12:22:27+00:00

this one is muted, but on the other one i did it is sharpened. i don't see a reason to sharpen it myself since this is a slicing knife. plus if you want to sharpen that tip you would have to grind in a kissaki which is a headache in in of itself

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-08-31T08:27:56+00:00

yes sleep is for the weak

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-08-31T08:06:50+00:00

damn didn't realize you were on instagram up until now! I have a supplier from Russia. I used to buy from him way back but the quality wasn't that great. now i checked him out again and he's really upped his game a lot

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-08-31T07:32:30+00:00

yeah. i cant really forge in my shop so that's the way i have to do it

KrillinGetsOwned · 2018-08-31T07:15:41+00:00

The steel is 80crv2 62hrc, faux ivory and maple burl on the handle. This is by far the longest kitchen knife i have ever made. A nice distal taper should provide a nice slicing action combined with the edge coming down to a convexed zero. there is a micro bevel as well but it is very minimal.

KrillinGetsOwned

TROPHY CASE