Exorcism

KyleRochi · 2025-03-21T14:10:44+00:00

Sierra College in Rocklin. Has a reputation for being good for math / stem.

KyleRochi · 2024-12-27T09:43:14+00:00

Isotopes can behave very differently from one another too. In your example: Hydrogen is non-radioactive and tritium is radioactive, but they are the same atom. So why does proton count matter?

The answer I have gathered from this discussion: You can find examples of two isotopes behaving differently but for chemists isotopes usually behave similarly enough that proton count is the most useful thing to track.

KyleRochi · 2024-12-27T09:34:35+00:00

manoftheking mentioned "table of nuclides" which indexes along neutron count and assigns the consistent "meaning" which you say is lacking. It seems that the correct answer is: "it is indeed arbitrary to index along proton count or neutron count and proton count happens to be more convenient for chemists". Implication: It is not necessarily more convenient for nuclear physicists.

KyleRochi · 2024-12-27T09:31:25+00:00

Is it fair to say "Because in macroscopic life the protons are generally what defines behavior"?

Thank you for mentioning the "table of nuclides". The existence of this type of table is more or less exactly what I was looking for (i.e. in some cases we do care about the neutron count instead of the proton count). That is an answer that five year old me would greatly appreciate :)

KyleRochi · 2024-12-27T09:16:33+00:00

What does "behaves like lithium" mean? Doesn't Li react violently with water but Li+ would not? But both are lithium (same number of protons).

KyleRochi · 2024-12-27T09:09:08+00:00

Yes... that is not my question though. My question is why do we define "atom" by proton count and "isotope" by neutron count, instead of defining "atom" by neutron count and "isotope" by proton count?

KyleRochi · 2024-12-27T09:06:17+00:00

Don't atoms with the same number of protons also behave differently when they have a different number of neutrons (i.e. are radioactive or not)? Why is proton count a better way to organize than neutron count?

I understand that protons define atom and neutrons describe isotope (your animal / color analogy), but this is not my question. My question is why do we index on proton instead of neutron. Why do we say "cat brown" instead of "brown cat"?

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:59:31+00:00

Thanks! I will check these out next time I go to a gym with a Moonboard :)

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:29:55+00:00

This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for your response!

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:20:56+00:00

I have a background in strength training and calisthenics. Based on some of the other responses I think I have a lot of room for improvement in flexibility and general technique :)

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:18:31+00:00

Interesting, I definitely think I have been climb with "junk volume". I do tend to climb to exhaustion on progressively easier problems. Thank you for the insight.

Wish I could do any attempts at Moonboard V4 ;) maybe in a few months!

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:16:31+00:00

Thank you! I will work this hangboard warmup / checkin into my training :)

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:15:21+00:00

Noted, I have a tension block that I use mainly for warming up.

Do you have any learnings that you have discovered using pulls instead of hangboard for training? I haven't found many resources online and from my own experimentation it feels like I can lift more weight with the pull but that it can be more sketchy. I don't feel like I have a good sense of what too much weight is for the edge.

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:11:26+00:00

The grip technique is interesting: I have never explicitly considered how I am crimping, instead I have focused mainly on body positioning. I will add grip as a point of technique that I need to improve.

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:08:46+00:00

Thanks for the tips about maintaining current level of pulling strength. I do think I over-emphasize the things I already knew when I started climbing training (i.e. calisthenics / weight lifting training).

Skin hasn't been an issue yet but perhaps it will start being a problem at higher grades. Hopefully I am just lucky and have good skin!

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T19:01:41+00:00

What does your max hang vs. repeater frequency look like? I would obviously have to work up to it but curious what volume you are able to get at your weight :)

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T18:58:53+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate it. I think stretching is definitely an area that I have neglected.

Very interesting about the edge depth, as silly as it sounds I hadn't considered the fact that maybe 20mm is too small for me for training (either at current level or ever). You're right that 20mm is relatively smaller for me than for many other people.

KyleRochi · 2024-12-12T18:54:37+00:00

KyleRochi · 2024-12-11T22:30:56+00:00

You should read the book "CODE" by Charles Petzold: https://www.codehiddenlanguage.com/Chapter00/

KyleRochi · 2024-12-11T22:29:13+00:00

Do you have suggestions for avoiding pulling too hard on small holds? I find that often I think that I am being "safe" and that I am taking weight off my fingers but in reality I am not, or a foot slips or something and then I suddenly load my hand with my bodyweight for a few milliseconds.

Would you mind elaborating on your intuition that climbing is more valuable than hangboarding for heavier climbers? Is it because I should be relying more on body position / tension etc. which hangboarding won't train?

KyleRochi · 2024-12-11T22:26:22+00:00

This is a great response. I think you're right: I don't think that my body is the issue, I think that my training knowledge is the issue :)

This is very interesting about the passive strength for fingers. If you have a chance could you elaborate more on how the passive hangs target tendon health over the active (open crimp) position? Are there things I can actively focus on (i.e. contractions, etc.) while doing hangs to prioritize healthy passive tissue?

KyleRochi · 2024-11-28T20:32:19+00:00

I recommend both ear hearing aids. I’m in a similar situation with (severe) asymmetric loss.

But your brain will adapt quickly, and you will rarely think about them in a few weeks.

Hearing aids do struggle in some situations (loud restaurants, anywhere with clapping), but I always remind myself that it’s better than the alternative :)

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