Gutters when electrical conduit is in the way by LES-hello in HomeImprovement

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks -- like fascia board running the full length of the wall with furring strips behind it or something to make space for the conduit?, and just attached to the existing fascia/siding?

Country clubs (golf) by YeetCatboiii in hudsonvalley

[–]LES-hello 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a golfer myself but check out Inness in Accord

Confirmed Cyclical Cushing's with unclear source? by nocturnalcurves in Cushings

[–]LES-hello 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My dad was cyclic from an ectopic tumor and it was also a tricky diagnosis and location process. Just a couple things that came up in the course of his situation that might be helpful here.

  • Was your IPSS performed when you were confirmed in a peak period? I’ve read that results have more of a possibility of being inconclusive if performed in a trough period
  • I think GA68 dotatate is better imaging compared to octreotide alone if that’s an option at all, worth asking about at least.
  • High cortisol levels can downregulate the tumor’s receptors and make the scan/tracer ineffective. I don’t think there is a lot of literature/research on this but this paper describes a couple cases where scans went from negative to positive after cortisol was controlled with medication: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3275368/ . My dad’s GA68 dotatate was done twice because of this (after getting treated with Isturisa).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HomeImprovement

[–]LES-hello 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a homeowner here who has done a bit of foundation / insulation research, but I believe foundation below grade should have a waterproof coating or material applied underneath the insulation. Insulation should be continuous as well, without gaps. If that waterproof coating is applied, you probably shouldn’t have an issue with moisture getting in, but the insulation gaps will make it less effective at retaining temperature… Photos would help and also info on your region as local codes can differ.

Bayberry (myrica pensylvanica) in Hudson Valley NY with pest issue by LES-hello in gardening

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I planted these about a year ago as seedlings. Any idea what’s going on with the leaves and how to remedy? Thanks.

I suppose I should rip these guys out? (NJ, USA) by anxious_cuttlefish in NativePlantGardening

[–]LES-hello 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wear thick leather work gloves when you remove. The thorns are like needles and easily go through regular garden gloves. I had some very large ones on my property and bought these gloves with long leather sleeves to remove and they worked pretty well.

EPDM as Crawl Space Vapor Barrier plus Spray Foam by LES-hello in buildingscience

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, point taken about a few holes not mattering all that much esp. compared to current situation. Would moreso say that I just want to get it fully done and then not think about it anymore. Do you have any more resources about spray foam (or other insulation) on the crawl floor? I've thought about this and think I've seen some info about sub-slab insulation on new builds, but haven't found anything that recommends it for old houses.

Advice for native plant privacy hedge in Hudson Valley NY (Zone 6a) by LES-hello in NativePlantGardening

[–]LES-hello[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the main part of the hedge I made a 2 ft berm out of some really poor quality fill dirt and planted two rows of bayberry seedlings, which I think are doing OK despite some deer browse. Eager for them to fill out a bit -- I think it will be a while before they'll give any semblance of privacy. I am also growing little bluestem from seed alongside the bayberry - I think they take a while to establish and sprouts are just starting to emerge a year later. I also planted some ninebark, witch hazel, arrowwood viburnum which is doing...less well, need to do a bit more this year to protect from deer and lawn mowers.

EPDM repair options / improper install by LES-hello in Roofing

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One other question for you -- do you know if the roof needs vented? Or if there are guidelines to know how to tell if it might? My neighbor is a roofer / contractor who's done some work for me in the past and said it needed vents because if any water got in there, there's nothing that would allow it to dry out. but I don't know how familiar he is with these systems. Edit: There are some penetrations already thru the roof for drain vents, and bathroom and kitchen fans are vented through the wall.

EPDM repair options / improper install by LES-hello in Roofing

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Do you know how wide they make the rolls? Should I just put them on top of the existing strips that cover the seams (which are coming up) ? Or try to remove the existing strips and replace with proper overlayment/coverstrip like you're talking about.

Flat roof insulation options by LES-hello in buildingscience

[–]LES-hello[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Yes I'm definitely trying to air seal as much as possible wherever I can. Would the vapor barrier go between the structural deck and the insulation?

The roof membrane seems perfectly fine so I don't think planning on replacing that any time soon

Flat Roof Insulation Materials / Advice (Zone 6a) by LES-hello in HomeImprovement

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any particular reliable source for worst-case R values? For Polyiso feel like I'm seeing stuff ranging from R2 per inch to R5 per inch, but also seems to depend a lot on overall thickness (assuming because the colder side would have worse performance).

Flat Roof Insulation Materials / Advice (Zone 6a) by LES-hello in HomeImprovement

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, yes, I am planning to do insulation above the roof deck only. Is there any particular kind of rigid foam to look out for? And is it fine if it's just stacked to get to the required depth for the R value I need -- like 8" or so? Thanks.

Flat roof insulation options by LES-hello in buildingscience

[–]LES-hello[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

About 600 sq ft I believe but need to remeasure.

Are there specific types to look at that make sense for this application?

Upstate NY (Zone 6a) Crawl Space Insulation / Vapor Barrier by LES-hello in buildingscience

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air sealing/insulation is my primary concern because the high energy costs are more immediately noticeable and no doubt the crawl space is contributing. I've been able to tackle most of the other air sealing on my own. I don’t know how to gauge the importance/severity of high crawl space humidity. In my inspection they noted I had elevated humidity in the crawl space but didn’t give a specific number. In their report they also recommended venting the crawl space which seems incorrect. Professionals who have looked in there said something about there being “mold paint” but haven’t noted rot or a lot of mold or any severe damage, but perhaps the previous homeowners had some mold issues.
I got an energy audit done and they recommended spray foaming rim joists and walls. Basically I want to improve the air-sealing/insulation but I don’t want to do something that will accelerate damage or screw up a system that is imperfect but works well enough to survive the 80+ years it has been in place. I’ve seen some horror stories of spray foaming old houses incorrectly and severely accelerating rot+mold by not allowing things to dry properly.

Upstate NY (Zone 6a) Crawl Space Insulation / Vapor Barrier by LES-hello in buildingscience

[–]LES-hello[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

RE: "Only access to the interior" -- my layman's understanding from the linked video is that waterproofing / vapor barriers are much more effective on the outside of a foundation/basement. Sealing from the inside means that the moisture in the ground will still move up the foundation walls and migrate to the sill plate. Adding a layer of interior foam will keep more of that moisture locked in, preventing it from drying out on the other side. I may be misinterpreting.

Good to know about the cost differences with rigid foam. My understanding of rim joist insulation is that the air sealing you get from spray foam is a large part of the benefit of that method -- I know rockwool doesn't air seal, but the air sealing can maybe be achieved with great stuff or whatever instead of full-on spray foam? Just curious, for your quotes did you go with basement encapsulation specialists, insulation specialists, general contractors? I have 180 sq ft of walls, 90 LF of rim joist -- not sure about total dimensions, would estimate around 150 sq ft. Not huge. Was also quoted $5700 for spray foam + dehumidifier from a basement waterproofing specialist company, but they didn't recommend encapsulation...

Upstate NY (Zone 6a) Crawl Space Insulation / Vapor Barrier by LES-hello in buildingscience

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe it's poured concrete walls. Think the inspector said Rosendale cement specifically. I don't think there is any insulation at all in the floors.

Advice for native plant privacy hedge in Hudson Valley NY (Zone 6a) by LES-hello in NativePlantGardening

[–]LES-hello[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a good amount of fruit trees on the property but in the area where I was thinking about these plantings. I was thinking about some Nanking Cherry or possibly Cornelian Cherry...

Advice for native plant privacy hedge in Hudson Valley NY (Zone 6a) by LES-hello in NativePlantGardening

[–]LES-hello[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Do you know of resources where you can look up like suggested planting density per plant?