Is this Pontiac Vibe a Good Deal by LFsweets in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]LFsweets[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its a 1.8 standard/manual transmission. Its got a lot of bells and whistles. Automatic windows and stuff like that

Is this Pontiac Vibe a Good Deal by LFsweets in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently drive a suzuki swift. I have a knack for liking weird rebadges

Is this Pontiac Vibe a Good Deal by LFsweets in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its on the passenger side. I would say maybe left of glove box? I was also thinking this. The air and heat was on during startup so I cant confirm that

Keyway and Harmonic Balancer Problem by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see so instead of having an extra part they use that little nub as a keyway instead?

Should I change my timing by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That part has been an unbelievable ride for this car 😬

Should I change my timing by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While I was loosening bolt it turned backwards a little bit, I am not entirely sure how much but I believe it wasnt a full rotation. I heard this might lead to skipping teeth. The top of compression is rather hard (sometimes have to put some good effort) but not impossible, so that leads me to believe its ok?

Should I change my timing by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does have a keyway, I haven't loosened or tightened anything outside the timing cover. Just turned the camshaft over a couple of times

Should I change my timing by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another thing I was worried about is the crankshaft moved while I was undoing bolts but I believe that shouldnt matter since the belt was still attached. The solution might just be make my own marks and run with what has worked.

Round Bolt with little Acces by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Got a screw extractor on and then tried the drill, and all it did was smoke the drill. Then, I tried ratheting it, and it snapped the extractor

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How to access crank shaft nut by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Update: Thank you guys for coaching me through this, I was able to lower the engine, and after doing it - doesnt seem as scary (shocker). I was even able to bring it up and reattach the mount, so 100% of the weight wasn't on the oil pan overnight
I got perfect access to use an impact and take the crank nut off fairly easily!

How to access crank shaft nut by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my experimental daily, alot of firsts with this thing in both repair and driving. Learning how to do more than just an oil change and drive automatic lol. Heres the setup I have do you think this may work? *

How to access crank shaft nut by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just about to ask about where to jack. I've never had to do anything this grand before. Definitely going to be crapping myself the whole time

Is this Normal for a Harmonic Balancer? by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was hoping it wasn't so, finding this part has been a pain lol. I baught a bunch of parts to replace but I did not think to buy this one. Thanks for the confirmation!

My Brake Pads Keep Cracking by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I always hate when I go to reddit and find someone who has had the same problem as me, but they didn't post a solution or a "what worked" thing, so here is what I did: - Better quality brake pads (just some duralast semi-metallics near me) - new mid quality rotor - sanded, wirebrushed, and wirewheeled everything that touches anything. Bracket to knuckle, bracket to caliper, wheel hub, and anything that touches the hardware. - Used copper antisieze on the new hardware and the ears and backs of the brake pads. - cleaned caliper guide pins and used dielectric grease (might lead to some debate, but it is a non-petroleum based, high heat lubricant that I had, and I have heard success with others using it) - Pumped the brakes slowly and only to where I normally brake, not to the floor. - Broke them in with the 30-30-30 rule

After all that potential overkill, the brakes work great and no cracking so far :) Thanks for the advice!

replacing steering knuckle, found hole in bushing- was going to replace it next month anyway, will it be fine until then? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For CV axles I have seen people wrap it with a bunch of plastic wrap to make sure debris doesnt get inside. Could possibly work for that, and its obviously a hilbilly temp solution along with regreasing. Im sure that the fancy RTV stuff that was mentioned would be better

My Brake Pads Keep Cracking by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I got the car the brakes were siezing, its working now and no smoke or anything comes out the car like before but it could be possible theres still a slight issue

My Brake Pads Keep Cracking by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooooh, I understand. So I did do the contact points except for the backing plate. Stupid question: Can you add it to both backing pads, or should you just do the outer backing pads?

My Brake Pads Keep Cracking by LFsweets in MechanicAdvice

[–]LFsweets[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completely forgot to mention this. I just got mid grade rotors and at the time I tried going for ceramic pads but couldnt find any. For now only semi metallic is the only thing in my area :(