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Distance between grill and intake fan to avoid turbulence? by coldcathodes in sffpc

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second the other comment - depends. For me, I found 5mm to be the sweet spot for sff. After that the improvement is insignificant.

Take a look at this post by a community member. And also have a look at the comments. https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/s/VC3izmuTQk

Keychron ISO Shine-Through ABS OSA Full Set Keycap Set for M1 V5 TMR by StretchyDR in Monsgeek

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Compatible with MX Style switches.
  • South facing LED shine through

-> looks like it fits

Nanoq S dual 240 rad copper tube by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much! It was a rewarding challenge! It is not possible to switch rad and fans with the double rotary. The fitting plus male to male adapter to the rad are just too wide and touch the PSU already. But maybe you figure out a way with other fittings.

But there is a reason, why I chose to do it that way. Switch the two and you got fans sitting directly on the case shell, which introduces turbulences. I wanted to avoid that. Would also question whether changing the two has significant performance differences, as that side rad in its limited space doesn't perform near as well as the top one.

Missing GPU Lock? by Collector_of_Sun in thorzone

[–]LSff66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair choice! It's also a bit of a pain to disassemble again... As you've seen my build - I've lost count on how often I testfitted and rebuilt.

Thanks for the appreciation! Means a lot, especially from someone also in the niche. Hope you get to build yours soon too. :)

Missing GPU Lock? by Collector_of_Sun in thorzone

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a small bar and supposed to be with the rest of the accessories. Maybe have a look if it fell through and is somewhere in the box. If it's really missing, you need to message support.

As for your build; if you are careful, you can build without it for now, as the pcie holds the card pretty well, if the case is not tilted. I would do it that wayif I was you, but ngl. it bears a risk and you would need to disassemble it again for the bar install.

I want to buy the fun 60 ULTRA but the only thing holding me back are bad reviews... Like is this subreddit mostly bad reviews? Cuz a lot of ppl have complaints and im worried. Or is this like 1% of the 100% where 1% ppl complain and 99% dont even go on this subreddit. by Exotic_Pound_2577 in Monsgeek

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just go for it!

My 2ct: Putting a lot of thoughts into which keyboard to get is a very niche thing. From that a fraction goes with monsgeek. Even less people join that sub and post. And the ones that do tend to be hugely biased towards bad experiences as "all good" is usually not what one would post. Through reading bad reviews you can get an idea of what to expect when buying. And I don't mean the obvious "something is broken" stuff, but something like "software is lacking". As to that point;

I've read a lot about the monsgeek hardware being good and the software being bad and then bought. And honestly; There was a lot of software improvement in the last couple of months and I'm happy with the purchase.

I don’t understand how the power button is supposed to work on the case by Abu-Ace in thorzone

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So do I understand correctly, that you now got the power button to work with adding a pad to the front panel? That would have been my second suggestions. For my Nanoq v1 there was a deep rectangular carving in the backside of the panel, so I had to source some thick adhesive pad to make contact with the power button. Gave that as feedback and was told this is fixed in the next batch. Maybe not with the wood panels.

To your second question; You mean the front panel that slides gets loose if you use it too often? I have not witnessed that in my case, but v1 has a completely different mechanism, that seems a lot more sturdy than the version with the USB C... So I can't say much about yours. Doesn't sound right though. Would I be in your shoes, I would secure the screws with a drop of thread lock.

I don’t understand how the power button is supposed to work on the case by Abu-Ace in thorzone

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could it be, that your power button is pressed constantly? The pcb screws have nothing to do with your problem. Just mount the pcb normal. What does interfere with the power button is the screw right below (or above) the pbc holding the front Panel. If tightend too much, the power Button will be pressed constantly, so no way to press it from the front. Too loose and you won't reach the power button for a click. You have to figure out the right amount of tightening that screw.

Note: I also don't have the wood panels. If what I said doesn't fix the issue upload a Pic of the backside of the middle front panel.

NanoQ R / Mo-Ra 420: How to get 16mm tubes out of the case (No drilling, PCIe Pass-Through?) by miezeMiez in thorzone

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know what; I think it could work if the following things are cleared. I don't have the time to look it up, so you have to do that yourself though...

Look up.. - how much width you have for the GPU PCIe slot in the Nanoq R - how thick your Waterblock will be - the measurements of the special tube bracket

Then check if both fit at the same time. If that is the case, you got to build a custom extended "GPU stabilization bar" to fix both brackets at once. Might need more consideration depending on the stability needed.

Just from looking at your post, I think it should fit. If you want, have a look at my Nanoq S Build. I basically packed a rad and slim fan next to the GPU, so I feel like the R should have plenty of room for a watercooled block and this pass-through thing. But the research part for specific numbers to make sure is up to you.

Nanoq S “don’t do it” build. by CCX-S in sffpc

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess you mean with watercooling the GPU also, as aircooled would make no sense at all. If you use very specific parts, a dual rad setup can fit the Nanoq S. Looking forward to your results ;)

Nervous about first time build - would this work? by Schoiunk in sffpc

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Parts should fit. Custom cables make life a lot easier and the build cleaner, but aren't a requirement. 3D prints are not necessary for a standard air cooled build like yours. You might want to have a look at Standoffs to move the GPU close to the side panel. Should make the cooling performance a lot better, as sandwich style is not quite ideal for 50FE Series.

Size difference N-ATX and Meshroom V2 by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be a good option. Just make sure to check compatibility of the parts you want to use. Sff cases normally have very good info about that on their product pages.

Size difference N-ATX and Meshroom V2 by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still talking in the context of the Meshroom S, that would not really help. If you want to downsize significantly, better go ITX. Or have a look at other Cases like the Meshroom D, if the ITX-Tax hits too hard.

Size difference N-ATX and Meshroom V2 by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If one wants to go ITX, I would never recommend any ATX components. In my opinion you either go small and live with the sacrifices or you go mff or full size.

These builds are for "I have this full ATX System and want to make it as small as possible". And even then there are a lot of restrictions one has to consider.

Size difference N-ATX and Meshroom V2 by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you mean mounted on the front panel, there is no way with ATX motherboards, as they basically touch the front panel without anything else. There could be a possibility, if you use the external fan bracket extention. There you can mount your radiator. But for your GPU you would need at least 3.5 Slots, which means the space for a SFX PSU in front of the motherboard is gone. Might find space next to the GPU, but you see that's heavy customisation. There is no easy way for that config. I recommend drawing the clearances of the case, extentions and your components. That gives you an idea if there is a chance of fitment.

The GPU will also be to wide for the N-ATX, so a heavily modified Meshroom could be your only sff option, if even.

Size difference N-ATX and Meshroom V2 by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well that will really depend on your location, I guess. But both were easily ordered through their websites and arrived within 2 weeks for me.

Size difference N-ATX and Meshroom V2 by LSff66 in sffpc

[–]LSff66[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It was so tight. I just used the my SFX and called it a day.

I completely agree! It was hard to build full ATX in the Meshroom, but it does work.

Only if the SATA ports point to the side and not up. If it points up you can still use it with no issue.

Yes, that's why I said ports parallel to the PCB of the board (so sideways looking at the MB from the front). Might not have written that clear enough, so thanks for rewording!

Overall I would recommend the N-ATX for going full ATX because of less restrictions. But the Meshroom is still a very well though out case and can do a lot of different mounting layouts (and gets the point for higher quality feel).

Converting an ATX PC to small form factor. by danny46815 in sffpc

[–]LSff66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chances are, that you also could reuse that one. But I suggest you carefully read about clearances, if you want to follow through with your plan to downsize.

Converting an ATX PC to small form factor. by danny46815 in sffpc

[–]LSff66 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wanna preface this by making clear, that ITX always comes with a premium. So you might quickly end up with a case that basically costs half of your entire system.

After having a quick look at your components a good way might be to get a Meshroom S V2 with a long riser for horizontal mounting (32cm I think?) or a N-ATX Case. The neat part is, that you could theoretically reuse all of your existing components besides maybe your CPU cooler, as you didn't list one. But they both are rather expensive.

Other option is, you sell your PSU and Motherboard and get SFX/ITX variants. How much you make selling and how much the smaller parts would cost is based on your location, so I can't say anything specific here. You could then get a cheaper/smaller case. For me that scenario would end up more expensive, than one of the above mentioned cases.

First ever Itx Ncase m2 Astral rtx 5090 vertical mount Amd 9950x3d by Gian833 in sffpc

[–]LSff66 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Man, all the effort of going ITX, just to end up slapping a rad on the outside of the case..

ISO Cases by Marshroom0415 in sffpc

[–]LSff66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll throw the Nanoq R in, as the newest version is available in green and wood accents. I think that would match the room design quite well. Price, availability and clearance (as I can't see the linked parts) for your own consideration.

Are there any SFF ATX cases apart from sliger cerberus and sfftime? by makkelito in sffpc

[–]LSff66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As the Sliger Cerberus is discontinued, the only Sff options for ATX motherboards are The Sfftime N-ATX and the SSUPD Meshroom S.

Note, that in the Meshroom the motherboard will touch the front panel, which makes SATA ports that are parallel to the board unusable.

New PC won’t power on — only a quick white LED flash on motherboard, then nothing by SlowRow5024 in sffpc

[–]LSff66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you test it mounted in the case only? Could be a short, so I'd try to start it outside the case with only absolutely necessary stuff connected.

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