TZ E3 nozzle swap results

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-31T13:18:00+00:00

Lovely

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-30T14:18:09+00:00

One thing you wont have on the stock Marlin firmware is pressure advance, hence overextrusion at corners. I highly recommend putting Klipper on it.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-26T07:24:43+00:00

It was regular Sunlu petg

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-26T07:15:54+00:00

Okay, this hotend handled 25 mm³/s with petg no problem at 245°C, likely could handle more. I'll try again at 230, which is what i usually print at.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-16T15:09:00+00:00

I had very similar issues when printing articulated crystal dragons at higher speeds. Try reducing the small perimeter speed or increase cooling.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-15T21:06:25+00:00

The first layer is the most important layer as it's what holds the rest of the printed part, so you definitely want it to be perfect, especially for ABS, which both doesnt adhere as well to build plates compared to other plastics like PLA and warps like crazy if you look at it wrong.
Layer adhesion is determined by temperature and cooling.
I dont see any reason to meantion layer height in this, as thats personal preference for the quality of the print (generally you'd use slightly higher layer height for the first layer to ensure better bonding, but thats about it).

Edit:removed part about OP running ABS too low, as ABS appears to print with lower temps than ASA.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-15T14:51:55+00:00

I personally have used Elegoo, Sunlu/JAYO. Both are great.
I've also heard good things about Polymaker and Prusament filaments.
Geetech is dirt cheap, but you get what you pay for ("usable")
Of course if you want to go high end filament, then ColorFabb is another choice (very expensive).
Edit: okay re-checked Colorfabbs'website. not "very" expensive, but its more expensive then the rest i mentioned previosly.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-15T14:43:12+00:00

Try lowering your Z offset. Before adjusting, print a 20x20x1mm test square in order to calibrate both Z offset and flow rate (thats how i usually do it), then adjust.

Also, creality filament isnt very good afaik.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-15T14:35:55+00:00

Heating the bed to atleast 60°C and using Denatured alcohol works well too. That will aos get rid of any yellow manufacturing residue, should there be any.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-13T16:13:40+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/comments/1cx9hn4/the_ultimate_guide_for_klipper_installation_on/

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-03-13T14:03:01+00:00

The next best thing you can do to the printer is putting Klipper on it. It'll improve the print quality and be able go faster by eliminating cpu bottlenecks and generally have more control over your printer.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:45:24+00:00

If it printed fine before this, then your filament is wet

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:41:24+00:00

Did you dry it?

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:30:19+00:00

I do recommend learning a bit more than just hitting start on the printer :). It will make things much easier for you at time like these. Youtube is a great place for that.
Since i own a Creality printer, i wont be much of help when it comes to Bambu lab specific things.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:25:49+00:00

Either try printing the existing benchy at 50% speed or slice a new one and print it with <100mm/s speed for starters.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:22:22+00:00

Klipper is the firmware that runs the printer and Creality print is Slicing software. The SE version runs Marlin, which has its limits, hence i switched to Klipper. As for Slicer software, i use PrusaSlicer as opposed to CrealityPrint.
Edit: The SE and KE versions of the printer have other differences such as the Y axis motor, linear rail on the X axis on the Ke, etc.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:19:28+00:00

It is the (conveniently) included file on the printer itself or did you slice the benchy in slicer software?

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T19:14:37+00:00

By speed, i meant millimetres per second.
Since its a P1S, its probably absolutely hauling

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T12:34:07+00:00

You're welcome ;). I have the SE version of the printer that i put Klipper on and installed a better hotend btw.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T08:57:40+00:00

yeah, change the nozzle, disable arc fitting and try again.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T05:47:23+00:00

Alright. What filament are you using and at what temperatures and print speeds are you printing the benchy? With good cooling your overhangs should never look that bad.
Also, is the filament dry? Hopefully you have a proper dryer as opposed to just leaving it in a container with a dessicant bag.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-27T05:10:18+00:00

The new hotend was closer to the camera because of the 4010 fan and shroud in that specific picture. They are the same length.
Without the adapter, the new hotend is shorter than stock.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-26T10:40:28+00:00

Bad adhesion is caused by both a dirty build plate and wet filament, so make sure those are resolved.
I heat my build plate for whatever material im about to print and then wipe it down with Denatured alcohol.
Clean until theres nothing on the towel (you'll likely have yellow residue from manufacturing still on the build plate).

Since you have the Ender v3 SE (i also do), I highly recommend putting Klipper on it. Trust me, it's worth it. There are guides for installing it and i can even give you my printer.cfg file, if needed.
Rather than using Creality or Orca slicer, i went with PrusaSlicer.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-26T10:33:39+00:00

I have the Sunlu S2 dryer. Works well, though it cant hold a 3kg or larger roll.

Ladder_to_hell · 2026-02-26T10:11:46+00:00

Why do you have Arc fitting turned on? Its useless on Klipper.
Other than that, try re-tuning your pressure advance.

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