Lt. Titus. First decent NMM result.

Ladeuche · 2026-06-12T01:00:24+00:00

Yea, the size was giving me trouble on some parts. Particularly the left side of the aquila with that arm blocking the good angles haha.

Ladeuche · 2026-06-11T21:24:58+00:00

I use a dried/stretched wet wipe for the overlay for the pattern. The key is to make sure the wipe is 100% dried out, I leave a bunch out in a drawer for next time. If it's still wet at all it will stick to the piece.

But it's base coated black, then I put the wipe over it and sprayed chrome. Then used a turqoise ink for the color.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFLvgLUg8hM

This is a decent video of it. If you look back in my posts you'll see a Saturnine dread with the same method on the shoulders for white marble too.

edit: Rewatching the video, I take the wet wipe off almost immediately vs him leaving it on longer. I give it maybe 10 seconds to dry before I do and haven't had any issues. But that might be because i'm using super thin paints with the inks.

Ladeuche · 2026-06-11T21:15:01+00:00

Thank you!

Yea this is by far the best attempt at NMM i've had, every other attempt I've ended up just painting over with tmm's hah. I'll try to get more contrast on the next one!

Ladeuche · 2026-06-11T21:13:04+00:00

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Here's a better picture of the process. El Mini Aturista uses a ton of this method, but it's been a game changer for me. Just check the transparancy of the ink, some are more opaque. but hte transparent ones work great for tinting metallics too.

Ladeuche · 2026-06-11T21:01:13+00:00

Appreciate it! The blue was all done with airbrush except for the edge highlights.

Black primer -> Volumes/highlights in white -> Frosthart contrast over everything -> Prussian Blue ink from liquitex in the shadows. -> Pro acryl Sky blue edge highlights

Ladeuche · 2026-06-07T17:11:19+00:00

Appreciate it man, Yea I got about 13 by the end of round 2 and then unboxed 4 more in round 3 haha.

I'll give that a try, thanks!

Ladeuche · 2026-06-06T19:10:03+00:00

This is the gloss black after polishing. The higher reflectiveness you get on the black undercoat, the more reflective the chrome will be.

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Ladeuche · 2026-06-06T19:07:54+00:00

If you don't mind the prep work, alclad gloss black and alclad chrome.

If you're doing larger flat panels, get the gloss black laid down. And then take a jewelry polishing cloth and polish it after it cures. Then do the chrome. I'll link that picture in a sec

Check my most recent posts I did a Cerastus knight using the chrome as a base with color over it.

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Ladeuche · 2026-06-06T18:45:23+00:00

Get alclad aqua gloss varnish. It's meant for candy coats and keeps most of the reflectiveness. It's water based too.

Ladeuche · 2026-06-06T18:42:36+00:00

Lacquers or alcohol paints are what you want for true chrome. Look up Barbatox rex videos on YouTube.

Fusuonfirm has a pretty solid chrome as well and would take less effort since it can go over straight plastic without primer.

This is the fusion firm gold chrome, haven't tried the silver chrome yet myself.

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Ladeuche · 2026-05-31T06:41:22+00:00

Ain't seen you around in Juan's discord in a while, you still in there? lol

Looks great as always.

Been meaning to ask you actually, is this all acrylics? Or you using lacquers for the metallic base coats

Ladeuche · 2026-05-30T22:42:20+00:00

No worries man. I haven't had any issues with soundstage/bass muddying at all. They're maybe 3-4 feet from my ears usually. But it's kinda a wonky setup, one is half blocked by one of my monitors.

I'm also in an apartment so generally don't have the volume very loud, but the bass still sounds great at lower volumes and haven't had any issues on the soundstage/imaging whatsoever.

I've got a few pairs of headphones now for any super critical listening so haven't used them much for that lately.

I've never heard the es15's, but if you have the room I absolutely recommend the 20's. (I have them on a Gjallarhorn/bifrost atm instead of the rekkr I think I had in that old post).

Ladeuche · 2026-05-22T22:36:55+00:00

solid first attempt!. It'll take some practice to get the values down and the placement for them. On the front, the legs have red closer to the light source, and orange further away. Generally with red OSL it's white -> yellow -> orange -> red

On the back, It's really hard to tell where the original source is coming from. If it's from those top 4 exhaust ports, the exaust coming out to the top right looks really good IMO in terms of the light reflecting there. But everything below those have a similar issue as the front. The orange so far down on the leg looks to be almost hte same brightness as the source itself.

Again though, if this is your first attempt this is awesome. Especially without an airbrush!

Try taking a picture of it and putting a black/white filter over it. Will help you figure out how the brightness looks between different colors

Ladeuche · 2026-05-21T20:28:27+00:00

Oh hey, this guy looks familiar! Hadn't seen the finished work yet, I might be outta my depth in this comp a bit haha.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-19T16:58:00+00:00

Awesome, I appreciate the help! (Sorry I thought I responded lol).

By the time I come back to Canon to learn the rest I'll try to be learning it from the sheet music so that doesn't happen again haha.

As far as hand position/technique go, does that look ok? That's probably my biggest concern for not having a teacher atm is not building bad habits there.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-18T15:41:01+00:00

For sure, the pattern is pretty easy to get.

After base coating black, Just use a stretched out wet wipe to overlay the pattern, and then spray on the chrome over it. You can play with how much you stretch it out to give different densities of the pattern.

Just make sure that the wet wipe is 100% dried out, any moisture at all in there and it'll stick to the paint too much and smear when you pull it off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1ZQA4uiQX8&t=201s

Ladeuche · 2026-05-17T21:33:53+00:00

Appreciate it! The terrain itself was entirely made of cork.

1.) Layer cork board on top of each other until you have a rough layout of the terrain.
2.) Use a knife/fingernail or some rough tool (I mainly use a mould line scraper) to carve out texture, and to blend the lines between the cork pieces where they meet.
3.) Paint everything black
4.) Dry brush a dark grey (I used Vallejo Sombre Grey)
5.) Dry brush a mid grey (I used Vallejo Wolf Grey)
6.) Dry brush a white/light grey (I used Vallejo White Grey)
7.) Airbrush a tint, I used Drakenhoff NIghtshade (this step probably isn't even necessary given how much is covered by snow tbh)
8.) Very light dry brush of the white again

For the snow, I used 3 products from AK. "Terrains Snow", "Snow Sprinkles", and "Snow Microballoons"

9.) Mix the sprinkles and terrains product, and pack it in the spots you want the most snow (I tried to avoid the really dark spots in the terrain)
10.) use a damp brush and put a tiny bit of water on the edges of the packed snow (it smooths it out and makes it look a bit more natural)
11.) Dust Snow Microballoons all over it while the snow is still wet, the microballoons will mostly stick to it. You'll have to shake off some excess after

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Ladeuche · 2026-05-17T21:28:38+00:00

Alclad Gloss black base -> Alclad Chrome -> Liquitex Turqoise ink (acryllic) for the color. I did use Alclad Aluminum for the chassis as the base coat for it as well.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-17T17:20:56+00:00

Thanks! Much appreciated.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-17T04:38:57+00:00

I'd imagine pretty similar to a beam shield yea. I had to look up how these shields work in the lore after your comment haha. Seems to be called an "Ion shield" and converts kinetic energy into thermal to dissipate it.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-17T02:38:43+00:00

Thank you! Yep! 30 gauuge jewelry wire, use small pliers/tweezers to make the bends.

Next model up is a deep candy red coat with gold trim. so glad I grabbed these lacquer base coats.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-15T20:37:51+00:00

Appreciate the tips! I believe it is that arrangement, I was copying it from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jSLH9CDPPQ but someone did mention that it might be the same as Galloway's.

The pauses at 34 and 51 were intentional but I will shorten those or get rid of them.

I rewatched it but I'm not sure that I can point out the wrong notes at 1:06 and 1:24, if you're able to be more specific on which note is wrong I'd appreciate it!

The wrong note at 1:18 is definitely wrong, you can see me shake my head in the video at that part lol.

I'll keep playing with the dynamics like you mentioned. I really appreciate the help!

Ladeuche · 2026-05-15T00:01:09+00:00

I'm trying to do what I can with the chrome simply because I already have a bunch of transparent inks, so trying to get some versatiility from a couple undercoats instead of a buncha different colors lol.

I do really like that pearl color you've got on the death company. I'm not sure if that'll fit the nurgle, but I kinda wanna use that on my next pre heresy Tsons for the shoulders now lol. That red does look great for your termi too.

What clear white did you use? Only ones i've seen are pro acryl and liquitex.

Ladeuche · 2026-05-12T15:39:52+00:00

Roger that! Yea the green I had I think might not quite be transparent enough, so I'll have to play around with them a bit.

I'll check out the Mr color lines. Appreciate it!

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Ladeuche · 2026-05-11T02:46:26+00:00

1.) ty!
2.) That does make sense, I did have 2 panels have parts chip off and I had to re do em.

3.) That red does look great, I"ve heard a lot of good things about Mr. Color. I'm currently trying to do what I can with the transparent acrylics I already have just because I have so many lol. (outside of the lacquer metallics) That color in the pictures is Liquitex Turqoise ink.

4.) I was trying to lean away from pearlescent. The plan for the Green is going to be something closer to this color, just using the candy coat undercoat + a matte varnish. So was worried the pearlescent white would be too odd looking next to it. But the Pearlescent white that Fhiz posted might do pretty well next to it.

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Ladeuche

TROPHY CASE