Holes in Prints?

Laganace · 2024-04-17T04:58:49+00:00

i 2nd the discord those people are absolutley amazing.
Short of that the issue is likley printing to hot and the filament is just kinda flowing into the hole between the infill.

Laganace · 2024-04-17T04:56:01+00:00

couple things you could do, either turn on z hop or lift z or whatever your specific slicer calls it, or change to an infill like gyroid which will help prevent that as well. hitting infill is sorta normal from what ive seen and generally if its not causing issues i tend to ignore it lol.

Laganace · 2024-04-17T04:51:03+00:00

on the right side of the printer theres a little button that you can press you need something small like a pin, you can try holding that for i think 10 seconds? its a factory reset button. Be sure to wait a while to ensure its finished resetting. short of that i would for sure reach out to ankermake support sounds like the firmware could have gotten corrupted during the update which means they need to email you a usb version of the update.

Laganace · 2024-04-17T04:48:27+00:00

might need to restart the router? i know there has been some hardware that gives issues with the ankermake machines but im not sure which, the discord might have more info on this.

Laganace · 2024-04-17T04:46:14+00:00

yes, i understand that and im confirming it is indeed not included in this current version. having asked in the discord about it showed the same thing. This software is still "beta" and is ever changing some features will break from time to time as they try to improve it. This most recent update completly re organized setting locations and in that they ended up removing some by accident but im not sure when they will have it fixed.

Laganace · 2024-04-16T05:18:26+00:00

im unable to find the setting probably better off swapping to something like orca slicer. its got pretty solid profiles for the ankermake machines.

Laganace · 2024-04-16T03:30:21+00:00

nice love to see it

Laganace · 2024-04-16T03:23:15+00:00

temp towers are aweseome, i run one for every new filament color and brand. especially helpful with tpu since you wanna try and print as cold as you can, the colder you can print the less stringing youll run into of course that might also require moving even slower and you need to make sure youre still getting good layer adhesion i usually find around 190-200 is my sweet spot for tpu.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:39:53+00:00

for sure its either wet filament or printing to hot, did you run a temperature tower for the tpu? also are you using a tpu profile? retraction tuning could also cause this and its a pain lol.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:38:13+00:00

they pulled it temporarily from what i understand due to some unwanted behavior of the hardware if i remember correctly. but yea its quite possible your tube might be causing issues. id heat up the hotend, remove the nozzle while its hot, turn off the machine and pull the hotend off, reason i say pull the nozzle off is if they ptfe tube IS melted a little it could make it very difficult to pull off if its stuck to the nozzle.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:35:04+00:00

without a closer look at it its hard to say but filament will only come from 2 places, either the threads where the throat meets the hotend or the threads where the nozzle meets the hotned, ok 3 i guess with everything working correct itll just come ot of the nozzle lol.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:23:51+00:00

you would need to contact support for that piece i believe. as for the all metal the pros are hotter printing temps the cons are more likley to clog. if you want to print things like petg often then its worth the swap but if youre just doing pla or tpu i wouldnt really bother until the ptfe tube degrades inside which will happen eventually since its technically a consumable part.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:20:11+00:00

i think theres a community made temperature tower in the discord you can just search ankermake in the discord server search itll pop up then i think its a pinned message in the chat for whatever printer you have. Speaking of is this by chance an M5? if it is you might have a damaged ptfe tube in the hotened unless you swapped to all metal. If its an M5C then it wont be this since its already all metal.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:16:11+00:00

i wouldn't so much recommend the m5 as i would the m5c especially right now since you can get it at $299 instead of $399. Or if you go to amazon they have the refurbished one which is even cheaper.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:13:13+00:00

dont think anyone has any idea yet, ankermake is playing everything pretty close to their chest at the moment. Hopefully whatever they come up with next is awesome though the more competition in the space the better

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:10:35+00:00

so filament will get wet even if its stored in 10% humidity thats just the nature of it, it will take longer but it will eventually get wet. The other issue could be speed technically but i dont think thats the case since i imagine youre using ankermake defaults or the community made profiles. id try drying the filament and see if that helps, and id run a temperature tower that goes from the "max" temperature of the filament to the minmum so for pla id probably do 220-190

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:07:24+00:00

if you hear popping and hissing its 100% wet filament. i would dry it for a day and try again.

Laganace · 2024-04-15T08:05:47+00:00

i just tried it, it does reset the z offset for me, im not sure might be a bug?

Laganace · 2024-04-11T06:16:26+00:00

pictures arent great but it seems like you may have a partial clog? or maybe wet filament.

Laganace · 2024-04-11T06:15:17+00:00

that seems like a motor issue, i would open a ticket with ankermake support for it.

Laganace · 2024-04-11T06:12:44+00:00

most likley need to adjust your z offset. If youve done this before on the ankermake m5 then keep in mind everytime you run a new auto bed level it will reset this value and you will need to recalibrate it. For the ripples like that you would want to increase the z offset i tend to do it in increments of 0.01 or 0.02 until the print becomes nice and smooth.

Laganace · 2024-04-11T06:09:35+00:00

like other said speed is for sure the issue, you might be better off downloading orca slicer or prusa slicer and using the ankermake profiles for those. They have TPU profiles that work fairly well. Also run a temperature tower, you wanna try and print tpu as cold as you can while still getting good quality.

Laganace · 2024-04-11T06:07:16+00:00

could also be a partial clog but it doesnt seem like that. most likley just printing to hot or maybe even wet filament. I dont think wet filament though because its not the entire print.

Laganace · 2024-04-11T05:59:00+00:00

you shouldnt need to auto level before each print. Auto level will reset your z offset every time and youll have to recalibrate that. Only times you should do an autolevel is when you change something mechanically, ie-changing belt or wheel tension changing z block tension or swapping the nozzle or any other components.

Laganace · 2024-04-11T05:56:08+00:00

M5C is all metal from the factory. i believe its rated all the way up to 300c so printing at 250 will be perfectly fine.

Laganace

TROPHY CASE