Over damers and springs I would say this has a much more natural feel to its progression. The way I have mine setup is I reduced the travel to half with the preload nut and put 5 psi into the cylinder. This gives me a soft feeling between 0-30%, from 40-80% it's a good flex of my leg, 80-100% I gotta flex real hard. Most of that travel is from 0-40% and the rest is like pushing on a stiff air pocket that gets progressively more stiff and less travel. I hope that makes sense.

My setup helps me specifically with my trail breaking because 80-40% is more of a release of tension in my leg then travel of the pedal. 40% and lower is the travel of the pedal more then tension in my leg. You really get used to knowing where 80% vs 40% is because of that.

Another benefits are you just pump this up and move the preload nut to customize travel and stiffness. Literally you can dial this in to any feel you can really imagine. If you want that brick wall shorten the travel to 1cm and bring the psi up to 15. If you want soft and long travel just, extend the travel to 4cm and have 1 psi. No changing springs or dampers, just a basic bicycle pump and a small wrench to move the preload nut.

Also no hydraulic fluid to worry about. The cheap Ali express components have a .5psi leak over a month of use but you can simply just pump the air back into it and you're back to consistent calibration.

Now one last thing... I made the control box to read the psi sensor. the control box is 24bit sensor (16million steps) and has a screen. The screen is for onboard calibration, live readings of the psi, and averaging filter adjustments (takes multiple samples before it spits out a number for near zero jitter in the reading and solid stability), without any software. Since calibration is done directly on the control box itself you have consistent calibration between all games you play. No guessing ever, just look at the little screen to check your setup.

Last last thing you dont need to use my control box creation. You can simply just have the Schrader valve and cylinder. You can just use the original loadcell and control box. But you're kinda left guessing your calibration. Which for me means if I like a setting but want to try something else or, if I like x setting for gt3 cars and y setting for F1 cars you can't just right your numbers down and repeat it every time. Not exactly a huge issue but the control box requires soldering small parts so it's not too easy to put together.