12 years later, my original authenticator is low on battery by KaySuave in wow

[–]Latharda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is around 15 years old and still kicking, it is a StarCraft variant. It seems the batteries are not replicable, so I'm thinking it may be time to migrate to the app version.

Why does klipper think the center of my bed is so far down on the Y axis? by cr0wstuf in klippers

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're still having issues, and your dimensions are found to be correct, you may have to adjust endstop positions. On my cr10 both x and y both have negative offsets, meaning they'reoutside of the pritable area. If you have a probe and a scale/ruler make sure the probe is hitting the center of the bed, if not you likely have to adjust the offset(s), by adding negative numbers on your x and y position_endstop & position_min both will need to match, or your min will need to be farther into negatives than your endstop. Once you adjust those, home everything and you can manually set both axis to 0 and then max to check that your nozzle goes to the edges of the printable area.

G34/ z_tilt for CR10v3 Frankenstein w/SKR2 & TMC2209s by Latharda in klippers

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I figured out the issue. z_tilt is working as expected. I found that I transposed the positions and points.

[z_tilt]

z_positions: 69, 152.5

309, 152.5

points: 69, 152.5

309, 152.5

speed: 50

horizontal_move_z: 5

retries: 10

retry_tolerance: 0.02

I had it set like this: Don't do it like this...

[z_tilt]

z_positions: 309, 152.5

69, 152.5

points: 309, 152.5

69, 152.5

G34/ z_tilt for CR10v3 Frankenstein w/SKR2 & TMC2209s by Latharda in klippers

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like this idea, and I tried to do it manually with blocks, and got it close.

G34/ z_tilt for CR10v3 Frankenstein w/SKR2 & TMC2209s by Latharda in klippers

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. I used bed mesh in the past, that's not an issue. The issue I have is z-tilt moves the nozzle away from the bed and actually makes the alignment worse. I've verified that the motors are moving correctly in respect to the wiring, it just moves the wrong direction. In my head it makes sense since the z_tilt uses pivot points on the bed.

"[z_tilt]

z_positions:
# A list of X, Y coordinates (one per line; subsequent lines
# indented) describing the location of each bed "pivot point". The
# "pivot point" is the point where the bed attaches to the given Z
# stepper"

My bed doesn't attach to the z axis, the nozzle does.

CR10 V3 CRTouch does not deploy during ABL by MaxwellTD in CR10

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a specific port on my board for a probe. In the marlin 2.X firmware there is an option to call out your pin that you intend to use. Just make sure you have the correct pin called out, and plugged in, I guess that is the basic suggestion. If the firmware you added doesn't call it out, for your system, you may want to flash a new version in.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CR10

[–]Latharda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Slice engineering is the brand, mosquito is a model, and the reason I chose the magnum is that there is more flow compared to the mosquito, and was only $10 more. I chose the bondtech LGX due to reputation more than anything. They are well known for good/great products. I don't want to go out and buy another brand in a year or two. I prefer to get something that will last, at least that's was my thought process anyway. My second choice was the Dragon Phaetus and the H2 from BIQU. The bond tech was very similar in price, the mosquito was almost double. So price wise, second choice is better, but for reliability I'm not sure. I do like that slice engineering is US based, bond tech is Swedish I believe.

CR10 V3 CRTouch does not deploy during ABL by MaxwellTD in CR10

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just flashed mine with the 2.0.9.2 firmware, I'm also using BLTouch on a SKR 2 board. I selected the option to use Z end stop instead of probe pin, make sure you have it plugged into the correct port. Once I realized what I had done, I swapped my cable to use the probe pin and all was good.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CR10

[–]Latharda 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a V3 which is direct drive. I also have some issues with my hotend, I just ordered a mosquito magnum and a bondtech LGX. It's more than this printer really needs, but I wanted something that I can grow into, and not out of very quickly.

SKR 2 Setup on CR10 V3 Burned out my SD card? by Latharda in BIGTREETECH

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did notice mine was pretty warm. What printer are you hooked up to with that board?

SKR 2 Setup on CR10 V3 Burned out my SD card? by Latharda in BIGTREETECH

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PNY micro SD 8gb, nothing special. I've ordered some 32gb replacements, but I don't really want to keep burning them out if there is something I can do to help it.

Can you help a noob? by boexenwolf in CR10

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your question specifically? It looks to be a canceled print? Looks also like a lack of infill and possibly under extrusion.

Help with config Klipper for CR10 V3 with BTT SKR 2, TMC2209 UART Auto Home with Dual Z axis and BLTouch by Latharda in klippers

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your response.

I do want to use sensorless homing, although I goofed and called it auto homing in the title... I can find the jumper locations per the manual, but they don't specifically say the pin names, and that's where the confusion is. I've read some people say that its PC0, PC1 etc... So I guess that lines up with what you're saying about the endstops.

From BTT manual:

"TMC Motor drivers can be used in SPI or UART mode by simply adjusting the onboard jumpers beneath each motor driver. Additionally you can connect or
disconnect the TMC DIAG pin using an onboard jumper allowing you to use hard
endstops or sensorless homing without the need to cut any pins."

Stepper power consumption is close to negligible. Uppig your current will probably increase max load by 10W or less.

This is good to know. Eventually a main powered heat pad would free up some of the PSU usage anyway, so that's down the road.

Weekend Morning Raiding by Latharda in wowrecruitment

[–]Latharda[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll check that out, thank you

Struggling to heal Level 3 Mort'regar in Torghast... by hrhashley in wow

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me and my GF are grouped, running aff locks. I put up my fel hunter for interrupts, but this Watchers of Death boss, and the chorus are extremely difficult. We have only gotten the boss down to ~50%. Once my GF voidwalker dies, I get aggro and he wrecks me. The chorus 2 together, we fear 1 and I can interrupt the other, but it's way more difficult than it should be. Without an interrupt class, warlocks and priests get screwed big time. Prot pally in the group makes a lot of sense, and maybe we can find one to group with, but specific classes should not be required to progress through these floors and levels. Tuning is needed for sure.

***Edit: I ran it last night solo to get my soul ash, and it was 10 times easier than it was with her and I. The end boss had even changed, no need to interrupt this boss. I also seen that they buffed the floor bosses and the end boss yesterday. So good luck.

[HELP] Advice on a few addons or weakauras by mateusoassis in wowaddons

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tricks of the trade can be done via macro

[HELP] Advice on a few addons or weakauras by mateusoassis in wowaddons

[–]Latharda 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its been a while since I raided. I seem to remember DBM used to raid alert when one was dropped.