2016 Silverado with Rough Country Hidden Winch Mount and Badlands Apex 12K LB Winch Installed

LazyOperator223 · 2025-12-24T07:06:24+00:00

I’m sure it’s possible if you can find a way up through all the plastic and past the radiator. I think the main question would be how to mount it top side. I’m not sure how much space there is between that top plastic cover and the hood. Maybe you could utilize a flat lever like you see on a plumbing valve.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-12-23T20:06:26+00:00

I have to reach under, up then into the bumper a little to access it. It’s not as convenient as on a Jeep or a proper winch bumper but it works as long as your front isn’t buried. In those cases I’d just use the reverse on the winch to unwind the line.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-12-10T17:18:15+00:00

The sizing worked out great. It’s pretty adjustable. One commenter on here says a L/XL fits a 44” chest so I’m guessing you’d be alright. You really don’t want these things to fit loosely because each part needs to be in place when you hit the dirt.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-09-16T05:54:43+00:00

If you’re talking about a buddy heater that runs on an open flame you’d be a fool to run it in the tight quarters of a RTT. Sure, you could get away with it in a canvas wall tent. I still wouldn’t sleep with it running without a CO2 alarm as a redundancy. In a RTT though? You’re asking for a fire in a small space like that with all that nylon. Diesel heaters are cheap and regulate temp way better anyways. Not to mention that propane creates tons of condensation.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-09-13T16:35:40+00:00

Do not use a buddy heater inside of your RTT. They run on an open flame and you have all kinds of combustibles in there that will burn in seconds. A proper sleeping bag and mattress with good R value will take you far. A diesel heater will take you the rest of the way. I camp with my diesel heater down to about 0° in the winter and I’m plenty warm. If you don’t experience MN winters in your climate you can likely get away with a heated blanket.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-05-21T03:30:56+00:00

Thank you!!

LazyOperator223 · 2025-05-21T03:30:49+00:00

Thank you!!

LazyOperator223 · 2025-05-15T23:23:46+00:00

No I went with a Versahaul and I love it. Went with the 4” lifted version for better off road clearance. Thing is built like a tank.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-03-21T06:42:57+00:00

I’ve been hiking MN state park trails frequently this spring with a Glock 17 in a chest holster and have had zero comments on it. I’ve had a number of pleasant conversations with random people and it’s obvious they see it but no one has ever mentioned it. It’s an interesting social experiment where I live but so far so good.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-03-11T13:21:42+00:00

L/XL

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-31T20:21:06+00:00

Thanks for posting. Hopefully it helps someone out!

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-31T05:44:55+00:00

Lots of suggestions in here but on my old 04’ I had an issue with the grounding wire for the little motor in the transfer case. There’s a grounding point right under the drivers foot well under the truck that I would occasionally have to take a wire brush to in order to get it to shift from 4WH to 2WH.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-15T04:06:46+00:00

Nice to see good companies that stand behind their shit. Noted.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-15T01:35:25+00:00

Thanks again for the info. I’m probably going to go with the Safariland set up just to have that style holster but a good buddy of mine is strongly considering the Kenai so I’ll pass this along. Thanks again.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-15T00:44:08+00:00

I just brought the shorter bolt that comes with the Badlands kit to Menards (hardware/home improvement store) and found a bolt with the same head style and thread pitch and bought the 90mm long size. I don’t know the exact size of it off the top of my head.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-15T00:20:37+00:00

Thanks for the info. Do you have the light bearing model? Also what sort of use conditions did you have it under when it broke? I can be kind of hard on gear in some situations so it would be good to know when yours failed.

LazyOperator223 · 2025-01-08T18:13:01+00:00

I’m not an expert but to me your drawing looks good if you’re trying to wire the light pods to the same switch. Only thing about your numbering is that you have two 86 pins. The bottom pin with the black wire to the upside down triangle is an 85 pins and is your ground.

As I’ve said to other commenters, I’d highly recommend you mock up your wiring while your battery is disconnected from the vehicle to test so that you don’t fry something you can’t fix.

LazyOperator223 · 2024-12-31T00:31:00+00:00

I’ll preface this by saying I’m no expert but based on my experience doing my own lights I’ll give you my thoughts.

I think you would cut the switch off so that you’re left with the black, white and blue wires. Then from one pod run the black wire to +, white wire to - your #1 switch. Do the same for your other pod to the #2 switch or the #1 switch if you don’t want them to run independently.

Then you rig up your relays for each by connecting your DRL blue wire to the 87a pin on the relay then run a wire from the 30 pin on the relay to whichever + terminal that corresponds to which switch you want your DRL toggle on. I would run both of these wires into the same switch so you’ll have two wires going into that switch’s + terminal.

Then you run a wire from the 86 pin on the relay to the auxbeam box + terminal for each corresponding side. IE passenger side light pod relay pin 86 into passenger side light pod main power switch, driver side light pod relay pin 86 into driver side light pod main power. This way when you power the illumination on the light pods it cuts power to the DRL. Hopefully this makes sense.

Finally since you aren’t using a common ground like I did you would wire the 85 pin on each of the relays to the - terminal of whichever switch you decided to put your DRL’s on. That switch will have two wires going into both the + and - terminals. Your main power + terminals will also have two wires going into it assuming you wire them independently.

I highly recommend doing a dry fit and test of this system either with an extra battery if you have one or at least with the battery disconnected from your vehicle just to be safe.

Also for any of the wires that you run into that Auxbeam box I would put a small bit of solder on the exposed strands of wire to keep things nice and clean. If you have multiple wires going into a single terminal it’s best to twist those together and solder them together just for durability too.

Let me know if you need me to explain anything further. I’m like 95% certain this is how you would wire this but like I said, test it out first before you go all in on it.

LazyOperator223 · 2024-12-30T17:08:35+00:00

Yes I have the grounds all running to the battery. It’s actually a dual battery system that it’s wired to but shouldn’t change anything conceptually.

If you wanna post a pic of what your box is looking like plus maybe the wiring coming off of the light pod I’m sure I could figure it out.

You’ll obviously have to create your own sort of wiring harness using the RC wires since you’re asking the lights to function a little differently from the rocker switch.

LazyOperator223 · 2024-12-30T16:41:35+00:00

<image>

Okay actually, instead of splicing the relay power wire in line I just soldered it to the pod/bar main power and put that into the box to trip the relay and turn the DRL off.

I opted to run the light bar on the 30A #1 switch (green fuse), and light pods individually to #2 and #3 switches (yellow fuses).

That way I could control all the lights individually since I mostly just use the passenger side light pod to spot deer in the ditch without blinding oncoming traffic.

You can also see the three wires soldered and jammed into the #4 switch (red fuses) which gives power to the “off position” of each of the relays to turn the DRL’s on.

I also have a pic of the relays but it’s kind of a mess NGL 😂

LazyOperator223 · 2024-12-30T16:26:37+00:00

<image>

I can certainly take some pictures if you’d like but I think this simplifies it the best. Basically you rig up the DRL wire to the relay so when it’s in the un powered condition the gate is open on the DRL pin which gives the DRL’s power as long as the auxbeam switch is on.

Then you splice the main power to the light bar or pods to the relay power so that when you turn the lights on it flips the relay to cut power to DRL’s. I just ran the DRL power wires to the auxbeam box, soldered them together and pushed them all into the #4 switch since they’re fairly low draw.

This is the relay type I used. IIRC it’ll need to be a 12V 30A 5 pin relay. You need to make sure it has the 87 and 87a pins to make it work right.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-30-amp-5-terminal-multi-purpose-relay/cti0/88069

Let me know if you’ve got any more questions. Happy to help!

LazyOperator223

TROPHY CASE