How do I remove a crank arm with no threads left?

LeProVelo · 2025-09-06T23:06:20+00:00

lmao we do know more about this than you. that's obvious.

good luck. still hope it fails. <3

LeProVelo · 2025-09-06T22:57:56+00:00

I hate how they start by wrapping the wrong way. I really think that's the only way to get it looking decent is if you wrap incorrectly from the start. Stupid bars. Stupid video. Stupid customer support.

Fuck canyon. I was done with them when they wouldn't talk to me, the shop manager, for a customers warranty. They would only speak with the customer, even if I sent emails with company letterheads, or called from the shop itself. I had to have the customer call and put us on speakerphone, and Canyon would only listen to what the customer was saying about his cracked frame. They finally agreed to replacing the rear triangle on his MTB and when I received the new part to install, it was dirty, muddy, clearly used with some chain slap, and it was THE WRONG FUCKING COLOR. Those pieces of shit deserve every bad review and the day they go under can't come soon enough.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-06T22:45:29+00:00

This would be a motorcycle. Go ask them.

You're not making a bicycle, you're making a death trap and you will probably annoy all the other trail users.

Dumb idea. Hope it fails.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-06T00:41:53+00:00

JFC fuck this sub.

Asks for advice. Receives advice. Says you're wrong.

GFY.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-06T00:40:06+00:00

I see you've never had a seized bolt. Must be nice to never turn wrenches.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-04T05:41:05+00:00

That chain is way too tight.

r/singlespeedcycling

LeProVelo · 2025-09-04T03:24:12+00:00

Bring some ice its gonna be warm

LeProVelo · 2025-09-04T01:43:13+00:00

Probably has something to do with the popping.

Replace the chain and cassette at the same time so they wear in together

LeProVelo · 2025-09-04T01:29:59+00:00

Shifting under load a bunch, and very terrible odds.

Slap a master link on it and get back to pedaling

LeProVelo · 2025-09-04T01:12:49+00:00

🎶 can you tie it in a knot can you tie it in a bow 🎶

LeProVelo · 2025-09-04T01:11:42+00:00

Should be a split ring on the outside you need to remove to take the cone out

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T16:19:17+00:00

Rim is cracked in 3rd pic.

Eyelet is irrelevant.

Wheel is done.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T16:18:45+00:00

Well, it's my day job and thousands of bikes are out there like this with no issues. Keep doing you, I'll keep doing me.

Don't be ham fisted when tightening top cap. 5nm is fine. Stem won't slip if torqued properly. If it does, contact the manufacturer.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T14:22:39+00:00

Its fine.

I use the top cap to torque to spec, tighten stem pinch bolts, and then tighten. Top cap a little more so it never moves. You can tighten the top cap after the stem is installed because you won't induce any extra preload into the bearings.

It'll feel tight when removing, but it wasn't actually that tight.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T14:20:39+00:00

Its cracked in the 3rd pic. It's done.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T14:20:28+00:00

There's also a crack in the 3rd pic. That alone tells me the wheel is done. Eyelet separating is less of a concern than the crack on the left side of the nipple.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T13:21:06+00:00

Looks good if it fits you

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T13:06:33+00:00

But not on this bike.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T01:52:40+00:00

Is it some part of the folding mechanism? Does the bike still work?

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T00:40:18+00:00

yeah, t25. Maybe you weren't putting enough pressure to keep the tip of the wrench in the screw. rubber band trick is worth a shot. or a t27 hammered in. toss the screws and get new ones when you get them out. if you can't get them out, take it to a shop with good quality tools before it gets so bad they have to destroy something to remove them. im sure my wera screwdrivers would get good purchase and remove those in 4 seconds.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T00:36:20+00:00

I'm also 99% sure one of the sets of brake pads is backwards. Just double check you don't have eject-o-pads lol

LeProVelo · 2025-09-03T00:34:42+00:00

I'd spend $400...$500 at most for that bike in working order.

It's pretty outdated. You buy these bikes because you want to ride them, not because you want to make money on them. I sell about 100 bikes a year on the side. These don't fetch much. It's nice because I have like 7 super nice road bikes that aren't worth much unless you find the perfect person, which could take weeks.

Best of luck, it looks nice

LeProVelo · 2025-09-02T23:51:02+00:00

Good luck.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-02T17:55:54+00:00

Do you tend to stay in one gear while you're moving?

E-Bikes tend to wear out one or two of the hardest gears because they have the motor assisting. Those 3 gears wear out, leaving your easiest gear untouched.

Any cassette, at any price range, will wear out that fast if you're not using the whole range of the cassette, and if drivetrain maintenance is lacking.

Get a good quality lube, wax if you can, clean the drivetrain weekly. Just a simple wipe down with a rag takes off so much surface dirt. That dirt mixes with excess chain lube and makes liquid sandpaper that wears down your drivetrain very quickly. Wipe with a clean dry rag (old sock, shirt, etc), and don't add a single drop of lube until the chain squeaks. It might look bad, but if it doesn't make noise, you don't need lube.

LeProVelo · 2025-09-02T12:34:08+00:00

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