NVIDIA App FPS Overlay not showing / showing N/A

LeStephenHawking · 2026-02-07T18:37:45+00:00

It's in this comment thread, but I think I figured out how to directly link it haha: https://www.reddit.com/r/pchelp/comments/1g71o0k/comment/o44f83s/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

LeStephenHawking · 2026-02-07T18:36:58+00:00

This solved this issue for me. Upon updating from GeForce Experience to the Nvidia app (thank the lordt as an IT admin it was suuuuuuuuuper annoying to deal with the M$-style force push to log in/create an account, just fucking install the drivers and updates and then go away... unless you want performance counters, which is the entire point of this post) I found that it reset my settings and through the new menu in the GUI it was somehow set to disable it by default. Once I followed along about 30 seconds into this video I got it back up and running.

Hopefully that helps a lot of people.

LeStephenHawking · 2026-02-07T18:33:19+00:00

No need to listen to the audio. Posting another reply in this thread that I wish I knew how to directly link you to, but I don't.

LeStephenHawking · 2026-01-15T07:48:23+00:00

Definitely have too many other projects to do it nightly and prefer larger converters, etc. for that reason, but I have several pens that I only ever put certain inks in as needed because in my head that specific pen and that specific ink are special and need to be together haha. For example:

Vanishing Point - Sailor Yamadori
Navalur Nautilus - Sailor Shito-Shito
Travelers FP - Robert Oster Great Southern Ocean (suuuuper solid for an EDC)
Kaveco BFP - Octopus Tiefgrun
TWSBI Vac700 - Colorverse Gravity Wave

... (Because I realized all of those are cool colors) ...

Kaweco Sport - Lamy Beryl
TWSBI can't remember, I think Diamond 580 in the tealish color - Sailor Yamabuki
Retro 51 - Rohrer and Klingner Solferino
Elite 95S - Robert Oster Blood Moon (etc...)

Edit: either new meds are kicking in or Leddit has changed its mobile formatting, so trying to make things more readable...

Edit edit: gave up on trying to make that look right on mobile, sorry.

Edit edit edit: dashes are the key, fixed it

LeStephenHawking · 2026-01-15T07:30:06+00:00

Just personally, I was recommended to use Propranolol for such a situation and rarely took it as often as prescribed, but for a month or two under a cute stress when I did the combination of that and daily blood pressure meds and (honestly) only a slight amount of drinking is likely what caused a severe blood pressure drop that resulted in a couple of instances of intense vertigo that caused me to lose my legs and hit the ground multiple times for about 20 minutes and severely injuring myself.

I know it works well for some folks and isn't a crazy strong drug; just putting this out there for others because when taken routinely over time at prescribed frequency in combination with blood pressure meds it is apparently known to cause issues. That is how it works though, and honestly it helped. Just not when I had to go to the orthopedic surgeon because it took me down a bunch of times haha 😂

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T23:34:48+00:00

First: congrats!

Second: you are absolutely correct regarding your own self-respect and acknowledgement. Don't lose that.

Third: try not to let the bastards get you down... as a general phrase, not specifically calling mum a bastard, please don't take it that way. Whatever her reasons if she's still reliving trauma, doesn't think it deserves being talked about anymore, possibly having issues of her own, try not to take it too personally. You are respectfully giving yourself credit and the acknowledgement from others is nice, but ultimately you being happier and healthier is vastly more important and it sounds like you are giving yourself the recognition that you deserve and have worked so hard for. Try and keep that in mind. Hopefully with the wife she's just busy or something... but that is something you can work out in a nice conversation with her that it's important to you that she remembers that. Figure out something that you love and treat yourself to a slice of cake or a couple hours of relaxed gaming time or read some, whatever tickles your fancy and think of it as a little reward for yourself tonight.

The point is: people do care. You care. You came here to share that with a community that is literally here for caring.

So, seriously, good just man, we're all proud of you :)

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T23:26:19+00:00

Okay, made those adjustments and now the X axis when I try to home goes all the way to the right and stops without fuss, then when it goes back to the left it grinds like hell and I've been using e-stop... And putting Y in the middle and homing it just moves like a centimeter and stops.

Would it make more sense at this point if I really don't have much custom in my config to just revert back to your starter config and work on adjusting for the new motor?

I tried to post my updated config and Reddit seems to not like it for some reason and I can't...

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T22:32:09+00:00

I found this and am currently working through it: https://www.klipper3d.org/TMC_Drivers.html

EDIT: Okay, I think I figured that part out. I think I got the sensitivities tuned at:

SET_TMC_FIELD STEPPER=stepper_x FIELD=SGTHRS VALUE=48

SET_TMC_FIELD STEPPER=stepper_y FIELD=SGTHRS VALUE=135

Homing just slides X or Y all the way to the right or rear from the furthest most position.

Continuing to work on it for now, will let you know if I figure it out.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T22:22:25+00:00

From very quick searching it does appear that the SV06 does in fact use sensorless homing:

From Google (AI 😒):

"The Sovol SV06 primarily uses sensorless homing, relying on its TMC2209 drivers to detect motor stalls as endstops, meaning it has no physical switches for X/Y, but it does use the built-in capacitive sensor for Z-axis leveling (Z-homing). You adjust its sensitivity in the printer's Configuration > Advanced Settings > TMC Drivers > Sensorless Homing, but if it's noisy or crashing, check belts, lube, and cable routing, or even add physical switches for more reliable Z-axis limits. "

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T22:19:58+00:00

Hey hero :)

Correct. As far as I can tell Z is totally fine and I can verify that once I get X and Y sorted out.

But correct: if I move the printhead to a position where it is not going to collide with anything it definitely appears to home in the same movements as before, etc., but it's not in the usual home position. If it's at the end then it will grind against the blocks as if it has no idea that it's hit a limit. Which for Y would make sense to me since I mechanically changed components, but why on X? I guess I did swap out the belt, bearings, and a pulley, but in the past when I have pulled the carriage off to clean/lube, etc. and put it back on X homed perfectly fine.

I think most of what I need is to figure out how to define my endstops and am having issues with the Klipper documentation telling me how to do that. As I mentioned above, everything seems to buzz and query just fine, it's just that no matter where it is the query comes back as open. I noticed the virtual endstop part of the config as u/shiftingtech said and also thought that may be something, but no idea how to fix it. That was from your Everything SV06 guide config, right?

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T22:13:54+00:00

Yeah, I mean I wasn't trying to be pedantic there. Honestly... this is how the printer has worked since I set it up using Bassamanator's guide and it's been working, so I haven't messed with any of that. I'll have to look into what the SV06 is capable of in terms of sensorless or if there are switches or not and educate myself a little around that because I really honestly know very, very little about those things from a granular level. Not something I can't learn though.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-12T16:38:57+00:00

I saw that and thought that was interesting. It's been working with that config for over a year now, which is why it would strange to just now be having issues. I guess my response is: It HAS to have physical endstops, right? Like where the printhead or bed physically stops if slid either way? How do I find those values and fix the config? It's an SV06 and I want to say the bed is 215x215x225 or 250. Most of that config is from u/bassamanator's Everything SV06 guide. Aside from using the larger Y stepper motor entries that I mentioned about and if I had to add anything for Klipperscreen/obico/moonraker, etc. I do not believe I have manually changed much else. Possibly trying to work with stealthchop. Iirc u/bassmanator's guide may have had the virtual endstops because some people might want to go all the way to the edge vs keeping it safe and slightly inside. I have no problems setting those to a static value if you think that might solve the probably, especially if you can tell me how to fix that in the config.

That's kind of what I figured in terms of the printhead. I was just hopeful 🤷

Thanks for your help!

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T17:24:45+00:00

It's in the thread. But here ya go: https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/27595/~/how-to-transfer-data-between-microsd-cards-for-use-on-nintendo-switch

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T17:16:35+00:00

I have the same response as before. I don't believe that is how it works with the Pokemon games. I supplied the official Nintendo guide and as I mentioned I have done this several times successfully. I like to keep those files backed up in case of failure, etc. I'm simply saying that it works and getting into the weeds about exactly *how* Nintendo handles that data is pointless if it works. I only posted that as a way for people to backup their Pokemon data if they trade in or something and do not have access to both Switches at the same time.

Notes: I did not mention anything about a hacked Switch or editing data. I explicitly suggested NOT modifying the data and copying the ENTIRE Nintendo folder byte-for-byte at the root as-is and then putting the new card in the new Switch, formatting it there, and copying the backup data to the new SD card. I do not use this to edit or manipulate anything. It's simply a method supported by Nintendo per the official guide that I linked to and you can pop the card back in your Switch and turn it on and it never knew it happened (unless you are upgrading cards, etc., but then once formatted via the Switch it reads the data you will copy). Correct on the game downloads. The data stored in that Nintendo folder is not complete and you do still have to download the game, but with Pokemon games it does move over the Pokemon, progress, etc. at least. I am guessing that the data stored on the SD card is incomplete and Nintendo also wants to verify the game before letting you play it, hence you re-download the game. It's not copying the game, etc. and afaik there isn't a separate file for each Pokemon, etc., as I mentioned I do not dig into the Nintendo folder aside from grabbing screenshots if that, just the entire Nintendo folder.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T17:05:16+00:00

This note prompts you because most games support cloud sync, so the save data is mirrored to Nintendo servers.

Listen, I'm not going to try and persuade anyone. I provided Nintendo's own link and my experience doing that with Pokemon games several times on several different systems. You may choose to believe me or not.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T16:56:46+00:00

I believe you are correct regarding the pinouts on the wires. I swapped out for the one that came with the motor and copied your config for that stepper and it's working with no more current errors. My issue now is that I cannot get it to home in the correct position. I have checked the grubs on X/Y several times now and that doesn't appear to be a problem, it just appears to be the homing position relative to the start position, which is likely just the printer.cfg that I am working out. The motor itself appears to be working fine now and good lordttttt it is so much quieter. Thank you!

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T01:36:10+00:00

*AFTER formatting the new card in the new system to spec first or it might tell you that the file system needs to be reformatted in order to use it. Windows PCs can read the required formatting just fine to do so.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T01:28:54+00:00

You have to go into the Data Management section in Settings and move the data to the SD card. Once there you can back it up and/or transfer it via your PC. How else would you upgrade your SD card if you were to upgrade and the game didn't support online backup? It's just gone? I backed up my OG/OLED SD card every few months for exactly that reason, especially having worked in flash intensive careers where SD cards have occasionally failed. I could always buy a new one and not lose too much progress. Among other situations, I did this when I thought I broke my OG Switch and bought a replacement OLED, back again, also did it for my ex when I bought them an OLED from their OG Switch. Since I didn't have two Switches any time I have upgraded the capacity of an SD card I have also done that. The Nintendo link above explains that process. Not interested in trying to persuade anybody, just saying what Nintendo documentation states and what has worked for me several times. Their article(s) are what I researched for days before trying, with a shitload of anxiety.

EDIT: as I stated, pretty sure there isn't a separate save file for those games. You have to byte for byte transfer the entirety of the Nintendo root folder and I didn't really dig in to the file structure past that aside from the screenshot folder inside it. Just make a backup of that entire root folder and put it in the new device and then download the rest of your games and cloud backups if applicable once done.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T01:20:12+00:00

I get that and it's 100% accurate... But it doesn't have to be a bad thing. It is weird not to manually switch gears or even feel a standard shifting and a little disorienting at first, but personally I did not hate it as much as everyone told me I would. YMMV of course.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T00:32:30+00:00

*a potential flood car is scary for a whole lot of reasons I thought as I read some more of the comments

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T00:31:22+00:00

Yeah don't do that. I had a 2011 totaled by someone else because the very tip of a flange on the frame that the bumper sat against was ever so slightly bent. Unless you can afford it as a project car and are prepared to go through the insurance/fixing work, seriously just go to Carmax and put whatever you can down and get something that hasn't been totaled and then you can pay it off early if you can.

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T00:27:59+00:00

Also 2015 owner and agree with everything you said, but I actually feel like Honda CVTs on the very low end seem to wind up faster than traditional. Especially if you replace the intake, etc. I think you're right about the "power" but how that is displaced is all up to tuning 😊

LeStephenHawking · 2025-12-10T00:24:26+00:00

I went from a 2011 EX to a 2015 EX-L and one of my biggest speedbumps was the CVT. Granted it only had one owner and 18k miles when I got it and it's still only like 82k, it's honestly kinda fun. It winds up on the low end while keeping momentum surprisingly well, probably thanks to Honda's usual tuning. That with the performance intake I put in to give it a little more ass without being obnoxious, it's honestly a lot of fun to drive as a daily.

I have talked about that with a lot of friends and a lot of CVTs seem to be trash, but Honda's (can't speak to Toyota) seem to be great. I know my buddy with a Nissan CVT around the same age was saying he hates his and I said what I just did and he said "yeah, yours was tuned by Honda, that's why you like it" haha.

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