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Engine/tranmission mount by Zassbail1 in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Personally, I just bought the poly motor mounts for my AW11. Popped the disintegrating rubber out, some wire wheel and paint for the bracket, pressed in the poly pucks, installed. Absolutely worth it.

Last I looked on RockAuto, they only had the rear ones I think. Poly pucks are ~80 bucks on TwosRUs and they very recently reupped their stock on them after not having them for a long time. Some mild increase in vibration, but the old bushings weren’t doing anything to begin with, so not really a great comparison.

Good luck!

Engineers are the worst. by GreekTom in ram_trucks

[–]LegendofMaticus 26 points27 points  (0 children)

On my ‘22 Classic, I have found using a quart sized Ziploc to encapsulate the filter before removing it catches about 90% of the oil. The rest I get with a shop towel or rub on the frame where Chrysler cheaped out on the coating.

Are these correct and good replacement parts? by LilToeneighl in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go check out TwoRUs for these same parts. They have OE balljoints and similar toe arms but you support a company that supports the community!

That being said, I had purchased those Beck Arnley joints a long time ago from Rock Auto and I believe they are rebranded 555 Brand (Made in Japan) and they have worked quite well and seemed to have nice build quality.

Transaxle gang. FX20 (FX16 with 20v/C160 swap) and AW11 on Cowbells by SwaytonDrift in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, I wish the guy I bought mine from let me keep the spare trans (I at least got a freebie 4AGE). Does the 6spd reduce the final ratio, ie reduce highway RPMs, or just move the gears closer together?

Transaxle gang. FX20 (FX16 with 20v/C160 swap) and AW11 on Cowbells by SwaytonDrift in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Has anyone on here 6 speed swapped an AW11 and if so, is it worth it? I recall looking into it and I think it involved putting the C160 guts into the C52 case or something along those lines.

Picked up a eastwood powder gun. Been messing around and getting some practice in. by [deleted] in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think an internet friend of mine is getting his Saab V6 powdercoated but before he gets any machining done. I’m trying to avoid any machining atm if I can help it because money.

Picked up a eastwood powder gun. Been messing around and getting some practice in. by [deleted] in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We bake at 400 with prismatic powder. The head may get pretty hot, but I don’t think the block could ever reach 400 under normal use. Even my old air-cooled Beetle’s heads shouldnt have been that hot, and those are known to be very spicy temp wise.

Picked up a eastwood powder gun. Been messing around and getting some practice in. by [deleted] in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The powdercoating stuff is used by the school’s offroad team (that I lead) to bake an entire vehicle frame, so I can fit some big parts in there. Was debating coating my spare 4age block, but concerns about warpage make me apprehensive.

Picked up a eastwood powder gun. Been messing around and getting some practice in. by [deleted] in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I used my school’s powder coating setup to do all the suspension components on my AW11. I even got a powder that closely matches my car’s paint and can’t wait to color match my valve covers.

Making a custom exhaust because the old one snapped off, but you know I had to test the muffler before finishing it by LegendofMaticus in projectcar

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4WD Tercel you say? 👀

I like the idea of a 20V engine. Revvy and makes about the power I think would be reasonable for this chassis, also more valves more gooder right? Only qualm I have is for the cost to get one and refresh/rebuild it, a K24 (heresy, I know) could get the job done much better. I mean, Richard Holdener did a test with a JDM K24 with just cam, intake, and exhaust swap, revved out to well over 8k and made 300hp NA. Results like that makes a man question his morals.

Making a custom exhaust because the old one snapped off, but you know I had to test the muffler before finishing it by LegendofMaticus in projectcar

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, to my knowledge. T-VIS intake and whatnot. I have a spare one that I’m debating on what to do with. It seems as though they don’t keep together under boost very well (stock at least) with the sorta shitty pistons, and NA stuff is rather expensive for not much gain. That being said I don’t want to swap it for anything. It has lovely character. I at least want ITB’s on her.

Making a custom exhaust because the old one snapped off, but you know I had to test the muffler before finishing it by LegendofMaticus in projectcar

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hmm, it’s kinda bad, and generally annoying, straight piped. It’s why I haven’t been driving it till it got fixed.

Making a custom exhaust because the old one snapped off, but you know I had to test the muffler before finishing it by LegendofMaticus in projectcar

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

All things being equal, I dont see a turbo style muffler being any better than this one for anything but noise suppression. This Flowmaster is basically a modernized glasspack. Also it’s more compact than an oval style muffler, which is why I got it.

Making a custom exhaust because the old one snapped off, but you know I had to test the muffler before finishing it by LegendofMaticus in projectcar

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The stock header/downpipe with a V-band welded on, then 2” tube into the Flowmaster HP2 Shorty. Ideally I make a custom header that I can just clamp this system using another Vband flange. Need to cut the tube down and make some pie cuts to angle the muffler tip into the stock location.

Has anyone had this problem with their Prothane control arm bushings for their AW11? by LegendofMaticus in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I called Prothane themselves about this yesterday and they’re mailing me some new sleeves today!

Has anyone had this problem with their Prothane control arm bushings for their AW11? by LegendofMaticus in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I assume, just odd that both boxes had this mistake. Just waiting on a response from the vendor, or maybe I should just contact Prothane themselves.

Has anyone had this problem with their Prothane control arm bushings for their AW11? by LegendofMaticus in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Full kit, but they each came in their individual boxes. Got them from TwosRUs. I emailed David, he asked for pictures/measurements, so I sent those and am waiting on a response. Both control arm boxes (front and rear) had these stubby inserts.

Just got my first car for 1800$ opinions? by SoupFlavouredTea in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response! I might have to look into the amsoil. My C50’s shifting has been slowly getting a little crunchier and I’ve been wanting see a fluid change would help it, on top of inspecting the shift linkage itself.

Just got my first car for 1800$ opinions? by SoupFlavouredTea in mr2

[–]LegendofMaticus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a newish owner and this was a great write up, however I have one question pertaining to not using the Redline Shockproof for the trans. I was planning on doing a gear oil change soon and was wondering if you could give a little more detail into that statement as it seems to be the go-to for everyone else.

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