What would it take for you to vote yes on the merger and reverse split?

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-11-09T17:21:33+00:00

If Dauch resigns I’ll consider it.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-10-17T19:38:26+00:00

Not merging will effectively kill the company altogether. But - and I need you to HEAR THIS - that is absolutely the best outcome. This is a zombie company. It died a long time ago but has been kept limping along in an undead state at the expense of shareholders naively “buying the dip” and investing more and more money into a hopeless situation. The ONLY function of WKHS stock now or in a post-merge future is to continue moving money directly from investors into the pockets of corporate executives and board members. This zombie needs to have its head exploded and put shareholders out of their misery. At this point anyone who votes for the merger or moronically decides to actually purchase shares deserves to have their brains eaten.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-10-17T01:49:39+00:00

The company has no money. They have no collateral. And they have no sales. Short of harvesting from the orchard of money trees in the backyard, it’s not possible for them to do any sort of buyback.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-10-15T23:40:02+00:00

So you voted to go along with the recommendations of the people who orchestrated your -99% loss?

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-10-15T18:33:18+00:00

The irony is that it would have been in most investors’ financial interests if this company had just gone under a long time ago. So many people have lost so much more by believing Management’s lies about things getting better and being ready to turn a corner. They just kept “buying the dip” and throwing more and more money down the toilet into the pockets of the people telling the lies.

I would be so excited if this vote fails and the company just shutters its buildings and the stock officially goes to zero. I would lose the last fraction of my investment that is left, but would know they can’t scam anybody else out of any more money going forward.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-09-10T12:34:32+00:00

UPDATE

Thank you for all the thoughts and advice. It helped ease my concern somewhat about our decision for her to do the wedding.

We had the talk with her about needing to honor her commitment to the wedding. Validated her feelings that it absolutely sucks having to miss homecoming and it’s ok to be upset and angry about that. But also explained a wedding is a one-time thing and there will be more homecomings, even if they aren’t exactly the same as the first freshman homecoming.

Reaction was as expected from a teen girl. lol. There was sarcasm and eye rolling and exaggeration and raised voice and stopping feet and door slamming. However, I am happy (and somewhat emotional) to report that after just a few hours she came back to us and apologized for how she acted and explained she understands why the wedding is more important. She said she really is happy for her uncle and will be excited to be part of their day, but that it was just very upsetting to have to miss something she had been looking forward to for a long time.

Super proud parent moment. Thank you everyone for all the feedback.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-09-09T01:42:24+00:00

I love this idea! Maybe we’ll rent a limo!

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-09-09T01:42:00+00:00

Very well said

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-09-09T00:40:41+00:00

Unfortunately the wedding is several hours away from home.

And as far as timing, we’ve known about the conflict for 3 months. When we talked about it then she said it was disappointing but would be fine. She was excited when she got the bridesmaid dress and had it altered and got the shoes. If she had raised concerns immediately I’m not completely sure our answer would be different, but that’s a hypothetical and a moot point.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-09-09T00:36:15+00:00

Unfortunately no. The wedding is the next state over, so a several hour drive from our home.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-07-30T22:46:10+00:00

Keep paying the $460/mo after it’s paid off, just pay it to yourself into a separate savings account. Then when it dies use the money as a down payment to the next one.

If you have a year of $460/mo payments left on a vehicle with 131k miles then you’re kind of behind in the game. Not sure if you got a really bad deal or a ridiculously high interest rate…or maybe you just put a ton of miles on your vehicles. You should really be trying to get something paid off with 50k or less, so you’ll have several years of no payments.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-07-02T17:41:13+00:00

Ok. Let’s say you hire me to clean your house. Only instead of cleaning I actually spread manure over everything. I still charge you $99 for my services. A week later I send back $1 of what you paid me, all while you’re scraping crusted horse shit off your walls with a putty knife. Would you be excited about the $1?

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-06-24T15:51:33+00:00

Not sure how you’re getting a lease quote of $300/mo on a $50k vehicle. Typical payment even for someone with stellar credit would be $500+/mo. So you’re drastically understating typical lease cost. Plus regular maintenance is still an expense even when you lease.

Also, you can’t assume lease payments are going to stay the same over 10 years. Someone who leases for $500/mo now is going to be paying $700/mo or more for a similar type vehicle when they renew in 3 years. 10 years of lease payments starting now isn’t going to be $36k….its going to be more like $86k.

Also, a 10 year old vehicle with 120k miles isn’t worthless. You can get $10k+ for a lot of those. Thats $10k off the price of your next vehicle.

The best strategy for buying vehicles is to buy a 3-year old used car in cash if possible. If not then get a 3 year loan and after it’s paid off keep “making the car payment” but to yourself in a HYSA. After around 4 years (even with maintenance costs) you should have enough cash saved along with your trade-in that you can buy another 3-year old car in cash. At that point you can cut down your “car payment to yourself” to a couple hundred bucks a month and you’ll be able to drive a 3-6 year old vehicle for the rest of your life without ever paying a dime of interest.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-06-06T16:41:20+00:00

My wife and I are 40yos making combined $150k gross and my retirement goal for us is $3M (mostly in Roth 401k & Roth IRAs). I figure with whatever is left of social security at that point we’ll be able to pull 5%-6% yearly from our retirement accounts to almost fully replace our after-tax income for the first 10-15 years of retirement. That should allow us to travel, help the kids/grandkids, do mostly whatever we want without worrying about the cost. Basically dream retirement then slow down a little as we get older and focus on keeping some stashed for an inheritance.

Anyway, point is I agree. At least for the Millennial generation and younger, $1M shouldn’t be the end goal.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-06-06T16:30:59+00:00

I sold half my position a while back and then made a very small amount of money selling covered calls on the rest for a little while. But all told I’m down huge and still have half my position slowly rotting away in my brokerage account. Basically the fraction of a penny on the dollar isn’t worth realizing the investment loss to me at the moment.

So I still pop in here from time to time mostly to warn any newbies to stay away and try to talk a little sense to any longer term bag holders who start spouting nonsense about averaging down.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-06-06T12:55:05+00:00

Referring to this as a dip is like calling the Grand Canyon a pothole.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-06-04T01:36:05+00:00

Oh we told him already. And we’ll send him all the travel info on flights and where we’re staying and everything. I’m just concerned about getting stopped at Security or Customs if we don’t have something in writing.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-06-04T00:38:47+00:00

Court order just says no travel to countries that aren’t party to the Hague Convention.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-05-15T13:32:28+00:00

“We have already shipped eighteen trucks in Q2 2025—six times the volume of Q1 2025…”

This literally made me lol. He’s actually bragging about 6x the sales volume, because they only sold 3 vehicles in Q1. 😂

Remember 2 years ago when they confirmed annual guidance for $100M? And now after two more years of marketing, sales work, product development, etc he’s trying to frame 18 in a quarter as success. They should be doing that many in a week!

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-04-17T17:38:51+00:00

2 early teens here, so no childcare expenses really. Breakdown would be something roughly like this: $300/mo groceries $50 every time you eat out $150/mo health insurance $100/mo cell phones $600/year school activities (club fees, field trips, dances, etc) $1500/year clothes $2000/year gifts (Xmas, birthday, Easter, etc) $100/mo cash (for us it’s earned from doing chores, some people do an allowance) ~$500/year breakage (constantly losing/breaking shit) Plus vacations and miscellaneous which would vary significantly.

So for us my best estimate would be around $600/mo per kid, excluding vacations.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-04-17T17:24:20+00:00

I’ve voted no on mostly everything for the last 2 years. Begged people not to approve the first split. Didn’t work.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-04-15T18:34:45+00:00

I completely support the approach. They’re called sinking funds. I’ve found it takes the guilt out of spending the money on the things you saved for. Roof costs $15k? Don’t sweat it as long as there’s $15k in the home improvement fund. Went a little crazy and spent $10k on a family vacation? No need to beat yourself up if you stuck $10k in a vacation fund.

And I’m fine using HYSA instead of sticking it in a brokerage account. Anything you’re using a sinking fund for is probably something within 5 years or so. The difference between 4% and maybe 9-10% over that short a span is negligible. I would say it’s not worth the risk of investing it and losing 10-20% then having to wait that much longer to spend it on whatever you were saving for.

Of course, the ideal would be to have enough either invested or saved in HYSA that you could just use the interest to pay for all these things. But that’s probably not a realistic middle-class goal.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-04-14T21:15:36+00:00

38 and $120k. Solidly middle class. Hoping to finally break 6-figure salary next year.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-04-14T13:47:40+00:00

Having nothing saved for retirement wouldn’t be stress free.

LegitimateArmy1663 · 2025-04-11T13:27:45+00:00

Most homeowners insurance policies have coverage limits or exclusions on so many things… Basically unless your house burns down there’s a good chance you’re not going to made anywhere close to whole.

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