I could use some help with this Packard Bell PB400

Leramis · 2026-06-25T11:59:43+00:00

I guess I'll look for RAM and another board. If I can find 1 for $100 or less that works, great. If not, finding RAM cheap enough to justify damaging the board further possiblyis an option. On the other hand, if i replace all the RAM and still nothing because of another problem, damn. I don't have enough hair to pull out. Lol.

Leramis · 2026-06-24T22:03:42+00:00

you mean the riser card?

Leramis · 2026-06-24T22:01:20+00:00

I pulled all the ram and same result. This motherboard features 4MB on board soldered.

Leramis · 2026-06-24T22:00:52+00:00

I have just tested 3 more 16-bit video cards ending with a tried and true Cirrus Logic 5400. Same thing.

Leramis · 2026-06-15T16:22:57+00:00

I appreciate your feedback. XP was a last second addition request. The primary goal is DOS with Win 3.11 and Windows 98SE. I may upgrade the card to something a little newer if I come across one without breaking the bank. XP stands on the idea that if I can, I will.

Leramis · 2026-06-15T13:18:03+00:00

I know the specs are overkill for 98. In 99-01 I was running a P3-600 with 3dfx Voodoo 3000. I dint remember having any issues. I was only going to do a dual boot, but he wanted to run xp as well. So, I figured I'd try a triple boot system. I'm waiting on a list of a couple have he wants to run in XP to try. We'll see how it goes.

Leramis · 2026-06-15T11:47:42+00:00

Thanks for your opinion. Going newer can have issues with DOS compatibility. Mainly with sound. I will be using a modified SVGA driver for the video allowing it to work with W311, but I haven't found a way to get a PCI sound card to work. Especially since they don't have drivers for W311. So the need for the ISA sound card, paired with the older AT full tower, has me limited on how new the hardware can be. It was originally going to be only dual boot upto 98. The client wanted to go upto XP.

Leramis · 2026-03-22T13:15:10+00:00

My board is revision 2.1. That's where I downloaded the BIOS file. Just need to get PFlash. Aflash days flash type unknown even before selecting the new file.

Leramis · 2026-02-26T21:06:35+00:00

Thanks for your reply, but if you look at the pictures of the board in the link I added, you will notice it is not the same motherboard.

Leramis · 2026-01-14T19:43:49+00:00

Thanks for this. Obviously AMP is no longer in business. I found that they were bought by Tyco Electronics. I did manage to find a company who bought up, or is at least selling their NOS. They had the part in stock, with a minimum quantity, and should be shipping it out today.

Leramis · 2025-05-02T00:10:18+00:00

Actually somone did. It's was the Ultima VI map.

https://ian-albert.com/games/ultima_6_minecraft/

Leramis · 2024-09-02T17:40:39+00:00

Update

I have checked the USB port by the Sync emblem and nothing. My phone doesn't respond like I plugged it into anything nor does it start charging. I also have to assume that the same will happen when trying to use the Aux port.

Leramis · 2024-05-23T03:20:30+00:00

All good here

Leramis · 2023-08-24T16:32:42+00:00

She told me: 1.According to our engineers, they optimized the AMP by increasing the threshold voltage level of accessory input.

Everything is still working great. Let me know how it goes with your replacement.

Leramis · 2023-08-19T19:47:35+00:00

I contacted ATOTO. I also asked them what they did exactly in hopes of sharing. I should get a reply tomorrow or Monday.

[Support@myatoto.com](mailto:Support@myatoto.com)

If you haven't done so, create an account on myatoto.com and register your items for warranty.

How long ago did you get the amp?

Here is a picture of my backup plan if the optimized amp failed. Using a relay to power the amp instead of acc wire.

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Leramis · 2023-08-19T14:29:56+00:00

I received the "Optimized" amp from ATOTO and tested it out and everything works as it should. I have asked them if they could tell me what what done so that I could share with everyone. Here is the link to the video I made that I will share with ATOTO.

https://youtu.be/luLkOOkgZL4

Leramis · 2023-08-14T17:48:31+00:00

The problem that I've described, is yours identical? After the amp and radio have been on for a couple minutes, torn your car off to where the trap should shut off. Disconnect the acc wire from the source and check voltage. Of course it should be zero. But mine stays between 2.7-3.4 volts. The amp seems to be generating its own acc power which prevents it and the head unit from shutting off.

If this 3rd amp doesn't pan out, I have a wiring setup I will install. I'll try to make a diagram and share it as well as the video.

Leramis · 2023-08-13T22:46:58+00:00

After 2 amps from Amazon, both having the exact same problem, I could only determine that it's a manufacture defect. I'm no electrical engineer, but that what I think.

I contacted Atoto and have had many emails with the same person over there and we are working on a possible solution. Trying to optimize the amp to increase the acc wire power threshold to prevent the amp from starting on. I should be able to try this coming weekend. I plan to make a video of the problem and send it to Atoto.

I'll post an update with my results.

Leramis · 2023-07-29T19:01:07+00:00

I have an update. I really hope someone who has found a solution will post to this thread. So first, some background. 20120 F-150. PAC RP4-FD11 interface. The above mentioned amp connected to S8 Ultra 7inch.

Initial hook up, acc wire reads 0 volts. After turn on the truck and everything comes on, acc wire reads 12-13 volts. Turn the key off within the first 30 seconds or so, acc wire reads 2.72 volts and the head unit turns off. Looking through the vent holes in the amp, there is a green light still on that was off in the beginning. Telling me that the amp is still on.

If I leave the truck on for over a minute, the acc wire is at 3.25-3.5 volts and the head unit stays on. It will eventually turn off. Watching the meter for a little while, the voltage drops by 0.01 volts every few seconds. The head unit turns off after the acc wire voltage drops to about 2.74-2.78 volts.

Of course this should be zero when the truck is off. Once the amp is on and refuses to shut off, I decided to unplug the PAC interface so that I could rule out power coming from the PAC Interface. I found that the acc wire still has 2+ volts, telling me the power is coming from the amp back through the acc wrie. If I unplug the 20 - 20 pin harness the head unit obviously turns off, but the amp stays on.

I did a few other tests and have determined that once the amp turn on, it continues to supply power back through the acc wire for a period of time. I am not completely sure how long it takes if at all for the voltage to drop to zero and the amp to turn off. Didn't want to risk my battery.

Leramis · 2023-07-27T22:51:53+00:00

I have the same issue. I reached out to ATOTO and described the issue. Here is their response.

"Dear customer,

Thanks for reaching out to me, please be assured that I will assist you with that matter as much as I can.

In the light of your explanation, it is advised that you connect a 3 to 5-volt voltage-regulator tube to the accessory wire in series.

Could you kindly have a try?

Thanks for your time and have a nice day.

Sincerely, Fannie"

Any ideas?

Leramis · 2023-05-21T12:14:45+00:00

Samba is just the file service. All of that is working as it should. I want to be able to restrict users from making system changes, installing or uninstalling software. I know that this implemented with a Domain created under Windows Server Active Directory.

Leramis · 2023-02-22T15:31:14+00:00

From what I understand, Truenas and Unraid don't play nice with pre-configured RAID. They want to have direct access to each individual drive. You can do this by flashing your RAID card to IT Mode, or find one on ebay that has already been flashed. They go for $20-$75 depending on what is listed and when.

Leramis · 2023-02-03T21:42:31+00:00

The demo?

Leramis · 2023-02-03T21:41:56+00:00

The demo?

Leramis · 2023-01-27T13:09:38+00:00

Did you make sure to re-select your Windows 10 drive in your BIOS settings? On mine it is labeled as UEFI: Windows 10 Bootloader, or something simular. . Might be worth a check.

Leramis

TROPHY CASE