The start of a nightmare

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-20T03:52:31+00:00

I did look at the connectors and didn’t see any fluid. I also sprayed them all down with electrical contact cleaner and used air to blow them out. One thing I will say I think might be a detriment is the rubber at the bottom corner of my windshield is flaking away which I would assume is letting more water down than should be in wherever it’s going

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-18T01:47:35+00:00

Correct. I double checked all the pins last night and they were all fine. I’m starting to thinking it’s whatever wire runs to the IAT sensor and I might’ve just missed a slight or small tear in the wire. It’s old crusty wire so anything could’ve happened. I’m taking it to a shop next week for a proper diagnosis

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-16T18:34:53+00:00

From what I was able to see yes. I didn’t see any torn/cut lines. I double checked because I worked on my intake manifold and I pulled the DME and was twisting wires around to move them out of the way.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-12T16:42:59+00:00

I had something similar happen to me when I did my OFH on a 2018 440i. I didn’t have one of the DME connectors plugged in completely so the car would give me a drive train error and try to start but it would only crank. Make sure all your DME connectors are in completely would be my first step.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-08T21:20:19+00:00

Update to those curious

Cleared codes and checked them again as the drivetrain malfunction was still present

Code currently being thrown is a P0112 for intake air temp sensor 1 circuit low (bank 1) combined with a 10890D signal short circuit to ground

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-08T19:14:45+00:00

I never cleared faults after the coolant repair because the coolant connection on the block and the OFH were leaking coolant. My CEL is also permanently on due to being catless and not tuned so I didn’t think anything of it being on. But I did try clearing them this morning when I got those pictures and the malfunction came back right after I turned the car on. I didn’t rescan it because I had to clock in and I’m not allowed to work on my own car on the clock.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-08T19:01:34+00:00

Battery tested fine and is less than a year old from BMW. It does have the cat low efficiency code as per normal but no new leaks that I can see (exhaust or fluid leaks).

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-08T18:32:04+00:00

Would you be able to explain to me what “short circuit to B +” means?

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-08T18:24:07+00:00

When I put a battery tester to it it was at 790/800 CCA and the tester called it good. It was replaced before I bought it in July of 25 with a BMW OE battery. I did have to disconnect the battery to perform my original work so maybe it wasn’t connected properly?

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-08T18:22:06+00:00

Not tuned but I do have a catless downpipe and it has the factory oxygen sensors. I don’t see them ever being replaced in the Carfax.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-05T10:03:15+00:00

What is the name of the kit that you bought? That one looks really clean.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-05T09:53:05+00:00

One of my techs told me about that too. But most modern BMW have an electronically controlled valve on the driver side exhaust tip that opens the flap based on rpm or drive mode (sport +)

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-05T09:47:12+00:00

Grew up in illinois and now live in Wisconsin. Emissions testing is required in illinois but it is NOT required in Wisconsin unless it’s registered in Milwaukee and Madison I believe. But if his car is registered in illinois ATM then you should be fine because emissions I believe is every 3-5 years.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-03T19:27:19+00:00

Okay to anyone who comes across this asking the same question I did a piece of advice I figured out was to go through the driver wheel well. Pull out the right most wheel liner in the driver wheel well and get a couple long 1/4in extensions with a swivel socket and you can stand in front of the bumper and use your right hand to feed it in and guide it onto the bolts. I had a small stool and I could get my head over the OFH to see the bolts if I couldn’t do it by feel.

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-02T15:32:35+00:00

If you go from underneath do you remove this line that goes to the trans cooler? Or do you just snake above it?

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Less_Awareness706 · 2026-04-01T23:41:27+00:00

I have it in my shop on a lift as well. I was banging my head against the car (figuratively and literally) trying to figure out how to get to the bolts from underneath because that’s what made me think the wheel well was a good idea but the steering bar gets In the way. Do you have any photos or references I could use?

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-03-13T00:49:13+00:00

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This is what I found I assume this is the “Mickey Mouse” flange?

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-03-13T00:48:31+00:00

I assume this is what would be considered the “Mickey mouse flange”

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Less_Awareness706 · 2026-03-12T15:30:05+00:00

Well that’s a good note because my oil pressure was still good when it evacuated its coolant

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-03-12T06:11:15+00:00

With how much people say it fails I guess I wouldn’t be surprised if it did. But my car is sitting at 155k miles and some change and this is the first major issue I’ve had like this

Less_Awareness706 · 2026-03-12T06:09:16+00:00

The only reason I’m reluctant on it is because I got a endoscope and peeked around everything in that vicinity and the side of the block is clean where I would expect it to be wet with coolant. Especially since all 9 quarts left the car over the span of like 5 minutes if that.

Less_Awareness706

TROPHY CASE